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A new a850 owner here! Yep, in (almost) 2018.

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QuietOC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote QuietOC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2018 at 16:36
Actually I now notice my Sigma 50-150 F2.8 which is one of the lenses in that list gets recognized as a "50-150mm F2.8" without issue at least when mounted on my A5000. So it is a bit more involved than just the Lens ID for some lenses and cameras.

There is more information in this thread.
A68 30M 35 50 60M 16-50 16-80 18-55 18-70 18-135 55-200 55-300
A6000 LA-EA1 6.5 16 20 30 50 60 16-50 18-55 55-210
600si: 20 24 28 50 100M 135 24-85 24-105 28-105 35-70 35-105 70-210 75-300 100-200
 



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Nikleo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Nikleo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2018 at 17:48
Originally posted by neilt3 neilt3 wrote:

That's third party lens I.D's for you !
I don't know about DXO but in Adobe Lightroom that I use you can use any profile manually selected .
So if you have the Tamron 17-35mm lens you can use the profile for the Minolta 17-35mm .
This is fine because the optics are the same , so require the same corrections .


DxO does not let me do that... The module for KM 17-35 is already installed but no luck. Argh.

Darktable does allow me to apply module for another lens but at least my current version does not have Tamron 17-35 in the database... Oh man.
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neilt3 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2018 at 23:37
I remember there was a thread on here years ago about editing EXIF data in the RAW files before importing them .

The reason for it was that Sony had released a new camera and because Adobe hadn't released an update to recognise the files , when you tried to import them it came up "file not recognised " or words to that effect .

It was found that if the EXIF data was changed to the earlier camera , ie the camera i.d was changed from an a850 to a900 ( or whatever the camera was) , everything was fine .

So on that basis if you change the information on the EXIF for the Tamron 17-35mm before you import them to the KM 17-35mm , then DxO should work fine with the RAW's thinking it's a KM lens and use those profiles .

You'll have to search the forum for the thread on this , I can't help you there as I'm not into computers .
I'm going backwards , just got another large format film camera , shooting 5"x7" negatives !

If you work out how to do it and need the information for the KM 17-35mm , let me know .
I have the a900 and the KM 17-35mm , so if you need it to spot the markers in the file , let me know .
I'll send you a RAW file via email so you can copy the part of the file in EXIF you need to copy & past into your's .

It should be easy enough , but I'm not sure if it's worth the time and effort per file , compared to just adjusting it manually .

Let me know if you want the file .

Regards , Neil .    
see my photostream on flickr;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.
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neilt3 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2018 at 21:50
I've emailed the RAW files to you to have a play with .


I had some family call around and it was quite late before I got out .
As it was getting dark it was high ISO , handheld at f/8 .

I've taken a shot each at 17mm , 20mm , 24mm , 28mm and 35mm , each straight on at the building so you can see what distortion correction DxO does .
There's also one at 17mm pointing up .

Another thought is that in lightroom when you make adjustments to an image , you can save those actions as a pre-set .

If you can do the same in DxO , you could do a correction for distortion and vignetting at each of the main focal lengths and save them as a action .



see my photostream on flickr;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Nikleo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 January 2018 at 21:19
Originally posted by neilt3 neilt3 wrote:

I've emailed the RAW files to you to have a play with .


I had some family call around and it was quite late before I got out .
As it was getting dark it was high ISO , handheld at f/8 .

I've taken a shot each at 17mm , 20mm , 24mm , 28mm and 35mm , each straight on at the building so you can see what distortion correction DxO does .
There's also one at 17mm pointing up .

Another thought is that in lightroom when you make adjustments to an image , you can save those actions as a pre-set .

If you can do the same in DxO , you could do a correction for distortion and vignetting at each of the main focal lengths and save them as a action .





Your help is really appreciated, thank you so much for taking the time to do this!

Vignetting correction was easy to match with manual adjustment in DxO but distortion is a bit more complex. Looks like DxO lens profile includes a much more detailed correction than just barrel/pincushion/fisheye tools that manual adjustment provides (I'm guessing there is some sort of mustache distortion going on). I got reasonably close (and certainly much better than uncorrected version) but inability to apply different amounts of correction to different parts of the image does not allow me to get quite there exactly.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Nikleo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2018 at 11:21
Now here's a tricky one:

I was calibrating AF micro-adjustment for my Tamron 17-35 and came up with -6 for 17mm and +4 for 35mm. As I understand, A850 does not allow to dial in multiple values for zoom lenses (like some Canons do, for example). What would you do in this case?

On one hand, 17mm is more forgiving as DOF tends to be deeper and I do use it mostly at f/8-16. On the other hand, that's where the lens goes to f/2.8 and sometimes I do use it for close distance/wide open shots (which is about the most demanding in terms of DOF precision). Should I just remember the settings for both ends and apply them according to current use or is there another solution?
 



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stiuskr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote stiuskr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2018 at 12:30
Quite a few options. 1-Split the difference at set it to -2. 2-See what the AF adjust is at like 24/28mm and go with that. 3-Record the settings and dial them in as needed if you have the time. (a piece of tape on the hood for the settings) 4-Set it for the long end and MF for the short end.
Myself I'd go with #4
Rob Suits Jr.
a99M2 a99 a77 a700 KM7D|Min24/2.8 Min35/2 So50/1.4 So50/2.8 Min85/1.4G Tam90/2.8 Tam180/3.5|Tam17-50 CZ24-70G2 KM28-75D So70-200G1 So70-300G So70-400G1| SonyF60 AD200R2
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2018 at 12:54
Three options .
1 ; split the difference .Set it up for about 24mm and let DOF take care of the rest .

2; mess about with setting it for the focal length each time you take a shot .

3; I usually have either a zoom lens on that starts at 24mm or 28mm , so if I'm using either the 12-24mm or17-35mm it is at a setting wider than about 20mm .
So set the adjustment up for about the 17-20mm area .

Depends on how you tend to use the lens .
see my photostream on flickr;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.
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Miranda F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Miranda F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2018 at 13:52
I would have thought you'd either be near infinity at 17mm or would have to do MF/hyperfocal for wide-macro style pics, so pick the other end?
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, 5d, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Nikleo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2018 at 15:21
Originally posted by stiuskr stiuskr wrote:

Quite a few options. 1-Split the difference at set it to -2. 2-See what the AF adjust is at like 24/28mm and go with that. 3-Record the settings and dial them in as needed if you have the time. (a piece of tape on the hood for the settings) 4-Set it for the long end and MF for the short end.
Myself I'd go with #4


I would also be leaning towards No.4 but MF accuracy is not all that reliable without magnification and focus-peeking.

Originally posted by neilt3 neilt3 wrote:


3; I usually have either a zoom lens on that starts at 24mm or 28mm , so if I'm using either the 12-24mm or17-35mm it is at a setting wider than about 20mm .
So set the adjustment up for about the 17-20mm area .

Depends on how you tend to use the lens .


I currently use Tamron in its entire range, no other lenses overlapping with it, so...


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Post Options Post Options   Quote MichelvA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2018 at 17:59
Originally posted by Nikleo Nikleo wrote:

Hello there! New to the dyxum, so I thought I'd introduce myself, especially since today I have as good a reason to join as any :)

Missed this post earlier, but found it. Welcome aboard Leo, good to have another dutchie    .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Nikleo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 January 2018 at 08:51
Originally posted by MichelvA MichelvA wrote:

Originally posted by Nikleo Nikleo wrote:

Hello there! New to the dyxum, so I thought I'd introduce myself, especially since today I have as good a reason to join as any :)

Missed this post earlier, but found it. Welcome aboard Leo, good to have another dutchie    .


Well, I'm actually a ruskie currently living in the Netherlands but thank you nonetheless
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Post Options Post Options   Quote donniefitz2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 January 2018 at 07:27
Just came across the thread. It caught my eye because I just bought a Sony a850 on fleebay for $629 with only 1,900 actuations. I'm excited to get back to using a proper Sony a-mount and Minolta glass. I used to own an a700 and loved that camera. Since then I've been on the e-mount (a6000) and Fuji bandwagons (XT-1, XE-2s, X100-F) but I really missed the fun of shooting an old Sony with the beer can and 50 f1.7.

I think the a850 is still a great camera by todays standards and you can't beat the value. A full frame kit (35-70 f4.0, 70-210 f4.0, 50 f1.7) for under $1000.
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neilt3 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 January 2018 at 10:31
Originally posted by donniefitz2 donniefitz2 wrote:

Just came across the thread. It caught my eye because I just bought a Sony a850 on fleebay for $629 with only 1,900 actuations. I'm excited to get back to using a proper Sony a-mount and Minolta glass. I used to own an a700 and loved that camera. Since then I've been on the e-mount (a6000) and Fuji bandwagons (XT-1, XE-2s, X100-F) but I really missed the fun of shooting an old Sony with the beer can and 50 f1.7.

I think the a850 is still a great camera by todays standards and you can't beat the value. A full frame kit (35-70 f4.0, 70-210 f4.0, 50 f1.7) for under $1000.


Sounds like a bargain for an almost un-used camera , 1,900 shot's ? I've done that in a week !
I'm sure you'll enjoy it .
The only thing I see missing from you line up of original Minolta glass is the 24-50mm f/4 . hmmmm
see my photostream on flickr;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.
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