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Calling analytical: more polarizer mysteries

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Post Options Post Options   Quote AudioDoc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2012 at 21:13
Hi Arno,

Happy to hear that the mystery is solved! Now, is this photo of me with CPL or without?

I haven't developed the film yet, but I didn't shoot much. Your photos turned out great. You really had the right idea capturing images of visitors at the museum. I spent too much time looking for objects to try the STF function on my Minolta 7 and overlooked the obvious! Very nice work!

Are you going to do the next photowalk "5th Annual Studio Lighting Photowalk" on the 25th of February in Draper?

Regards,

Kelly
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rno. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 February 2012 at 06:07
Thanks Kelly, and I look forward to seeing your images.

Yes, I am planning on participating in the Studio Lighting event. However, again, I will probably not shoot the models like everybody else but am thinking of bringing my 3D rig to take advantage of the studio setting, the lighting (and: the crowd!) Not sure on that yet, though.
It should be packed!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote stiuskr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 February 2012 at 10:36
A very good idea, shooting the shoot! A different perspective that I'd like to see
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Post Options Post Options   Quote brettania Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 February 2012 at 10:48
The photograph is the perfect answer!

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rno. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 February 2012 at 04:06
Posting the new question again here to bump the thread:

Okay, taking analytical's information, my "great" idea was to combine a circular and a linear polarizer and build my own ND fader for little money.

It works, but it doesn't work. Here is what happened:

CPL mounted first, then the linear next. When I rotate the linear and keep the circular firm, it turns from bright to very dark and back. That's the effect I wanted. So far, so good.

But the exposure meter does not react to the brightness change.

In comparison, if I only use the CPOL, the exposure meter does react to changes in light coming in.

Why is it not working with the filter combination, and can something be done to make it work?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ifreedman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2012 at 21:00
I'm not certain why the exposure meter doesn't work. I've read that meters don't always react well to light that is linearly polarized. I think they use a beam splitter, which can't always distinguish the correct brightness of linearly polarized light. This is why most manufacturers suggest using a circular polarizer with modern cameras. The camera works fine w/ a CPL, which is just a linear polarizer with a quarter wave plate. But the way you've described your set-up, the light that makes it through should be circularly polarized. Hmmm...

So, let's look at the ND filter you created. (BTW, I tried this myself, and the pictures were... interesting... I'll post them at some time). If light passes through a linear polarizer first, then passes through a CPL, it's basically passing through two linear polarizers, then a quarter-wave plate. If the linear polarizers are perfectly mis-aligned, no light should pass through. If they two are perfectly aligned, then you won't lose any more light than with a single linear polarizer, in theory. In both cases, any light that does make it through will be circularly polarized, so from what I understand, the camera should be able to auto-exposure from it.

I Googled this, and others seem to suggest that their auto-exposure did work using this method. I can't remember if it worked when I tried it. (See http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1029&message=21676259&changemode=1)

If it's not working: (a) Maybe I'm wrong. (b) Maybe it's too dark and the camera is having a hard time finding the correct exposure. (c) Is it possible that you attached the filters in the wrong order, or you used two CPLs or linear polarizers. You could easily use two linear polarizers and get the same variable ND effect, and the camera wouldn't be able to correctly auto-meter the linear polarized light.

For the variable neutral density setup to work correctly, in theory it should look like:
light   ---> 1st passes through linear pol ---> 2nd passes through CPL ---> finally passes through the lens and into camera.

When this thread first came out, I think the person who posted the question had the filters in the wrong order. If this isn't the case for you, and you are using the setup above, then I'm at a loss.
Did this help anything?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rno. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 February 2012 at 00:25
Thanks for trying to solve this mystery. A bit more information:

With only the CPOL on, the meter reacts to changes in light.
With the linear added as last, there is no reaction. Actually, the shutter speed remains at 1/60 sec, no matter what and even if I point in a much darker direction.

The linear is a Tiffen SR. I think it has to be a linear, or the two combined would not go dark (according to analytical).
The circular is a Marumi CPL.

FTR, AF works in both situations.

I cannot get it totally dark but may not have tried all rotational options. I only rotated the linear, while the CPOL remained unchaned during my tests.

I am the same person who originally started this thread, back then with a different problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ifreedman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 February 2012 at 04:19
I just tested this. You might try repeating this to see what you find:

1. Put CPL on camera.
2. Put Linear pol on camera. Tested to make sure "variable ND" filter was working. It was.
Note: the combo will never make a completely dark image. There will always be a bit of light that makes it through both polarizers if it's oriented correctly.
3. Tested on Manual mode. As I twisted the filter, the image went from lighter to darker. Etc.
4. Tested on P mode. (I shoot w/ an A33, so P mode sets exposure value automatically). For part of the time, I could tell it was adjusting exposure correctly because the shutter speed slowly changed. However, after a point, the camera couldn't compensate and the image became increasingly dark. I'm not sure if it became too dark for the auto exposure mode to work or if it had a tough time auto adjusting to the circularly polarized light.
5. I then tested the exposure system w/ just the individual filters, with the lens stopped down to F22 to dim the images as much as possible. The camera struggled with both, but more with the linear polarizer (no surprise).
6. What does this mean? Does it struggle just because there is so little light coming through that it's having a hard time adjusting? Maybe. But, like you, I think it's worse with the polarized light, even though it's circularly polarized. I don't understand the exposure system well enough to know why. But it seems to me that if you're going to try to use a "variable ND filter" you need to set white balance and exposure settings manually. I think the auto-exposure works well enough for some of the time, but when the light becomes too polarized, it continues to adjust, but it doesn't adjust enough.

Hmm... that's all I know right now. As much as I love the theory behind the "variable ND filter," in practice it seems terrible. In particular, the colors are terrible.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ifreedman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 February 2012 at 04:36
I was going to post some pictures I just took, but (never having posted pics to Dyxum) it looks like I need a photo hosting site, which I haven't set up.

Basically, when you turn up the "variable ND filter" to block more light, the image not only underexposes a bit, but the colors become quite purple. Color balance was already off with the least amount of polarization. With max polarization, the colors are terrible. Vignetting becomes more obvious, too, although less so with my 35 1.8 than with the 18-55 kit lens.
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