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Focus on Imaging - The ability to resist

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TallPaul View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote TallPaul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 March 2010 at 09:45
Eclipse - its the SSS stabilisation on the sensor, that was something that Dominic Fraser the car photographer was going on about. What sells car shots is having the car sharp and the background blurred. They don't shoot at high-speeds (cars that is), usually 20-30mph so you want a nice sharp car with plenty of motion blur on the background and with SSS he is able to get a shot at 1/20th or other settings that previously with his Nikon gear with image stabilisation he could not achieve with the same sharpness. I am not paraphrasing here, this is what he said to me when I had a chat with him.

I have a 75-300 Minolta lens that was my first non-kit lens purchase. Its slow to focus as its screw drive, but as long as you have the ISO the "speed" of the aperture is usually ok. I have played with a 70-300SSM in a shop and its very fast, I would see no problem with shooting moving cars, horses or other modes of transport with it on a A450.

Gustav did quite a few shots with a 70-200, his hide is really close and with A700 he has the 1.5x crop/sensor factor making it an effective 112-300mm. He only recently got the 70-400 I think, but if I was mainly interested in shooting wildlife and wanted the reach, especially with A900 and full frame, I can see how the 70-400 would be the one to go for.
A900, 16-35/2.8Z, 70-200/2.8G, 85/1.4Z, 28-75/2.8, 50/1.7, 56 & 20 flash, too many bags!.
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Eclipse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Eclipse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 March 2010 at 10:49
Yes, it's different with the horses,as they've got legs- if you want to stop the legs and have them sharp, most horse photographers would use 1/500 at least, some suggest a minimum of 1/1000. I sometimes use down to 1/250 but you have to be very careful there, and I always try to use 1/350 or more, light permitting. With slower shutter speeds I do pan very carefully, but as I also want the background not to be blurred if I can help it, faster shutter speed are still the best option when there's enough light.

I had never really considered that for cars racing at similar speeds (horses do 20-30mph when racing) the settings you'd need would be so different; it just shows that even superficially similar situations call for very different solutions.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Eclipse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 March 2010 at 10:55
(the problem with horses as far as panning goes is that all the legs are going forward, but at different speeds to each other and the body, the hooves even more so as they 'flick'- you can usually 'stop' the jockey and the horse's body, but the legs and hooves are a different matter)
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TallPaul View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote TallPaul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 March 2010 at 11:32
Yes with cars you want the impression its doing 100mph, when actually its doing 20 or 30, because any faster and it becomes hard to maintain a consistent distance between the shoot car and the model car (which of course affects focus). The slower the shutter (while the car is still sharp) the faster the car looks with the wheels spinning and the background racing by.

I had not considered the opposite with horses, that like football or some other sport its the frozen action shots that are desired.
A900, 16-35/2.8Z, 70-200/2.8G, 85/1.4Z, 28-75/2.8, 50/1.7, 56 & 20 flash, too many bags!.
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ijsvogel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ijsvogel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 March 2010 at 17:10
the last half year , i shoot kingfishers , with the A700 and the 70-400 G-LENS

i hope some day to shoot this birds with the A900 and 70-400 g-lens

the day`s at FOCUS i had a lot of time the A550 with the 70-300 G-LENS
the 70-300 G i think it`s really great

greetings
gustav
my picture`s

www.gkiburg.nl
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