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Can I get 5D colors on the A100? |
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emyyl
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Joined: 12 October 2007 Location: Malaysia Online Status: Offline Posts: 18 |
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Topic: Can I get 5D colors on the A100?Posted: 12 October 2007 at 11:39 |
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Recently I acquired an A100 to replace the 5D, which was suffering from shutter jams because of a faulty Anti shake mechanism. All the newer features aside, I really miss what I consider to be the beautiful fresh colors from the 5D, which I consider to be better than Nikon, Canon or Pentax's. I mainly do jpegs and they came out with (what I consider) the "trademark" greenish and artificial colors that I find on Sony TV's and cameras.
I found that the Adobe color mode is closer to what I consider natural and gave up using AWB. The "Cloudy" WB setting was much better. Now I am experimenting with color temperatures, temporarily settling on 5,700K and +M2. Has anyone tried to play with the settings to come close to the original KM colors? What have you found to be the right settings? |
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cezarL
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Knowledgebase Contributor Joined: 16 January 2007 Location: Romania Online Status: Offline Posts: 2509 |
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Posted: 12 October 2007 at 11:54 |
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Welcome to Dyxum!
I've asked the same question a while ago, Turerkan was kind enough to give a couple of hints: clickie here Hope you find this useful! |
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emyyl
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Joined: 12 October 2007 Location: Malaysia Online Status: Offline Posts: 18 |
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Posted: 12 October 2007 at 12:28 |
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Thanks, cezarl! Looks like I'll have to do PP in Photoshop as suggested by Turerkan or get another 5D body. On the one side I am happy that we now have access to Zeiss lenses but it is not the same as Minolta colors, which to me, is second only to Leica in terms of "rightness" and life-like.
I came to the same conclusion regarding DRO. A little bit too much contrast (Canon-like) and I switched it off. |
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Vidgamer
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Joined: 23 June 2007 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 413 |
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Posted: 12 October 2007 at 14:33 |
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To really do it right, you need a profile from both cameras, and software to map it. Notice that Turerkan mentioned how one color range might be different in the shadows, while another was off in the midtones. Online, I think I read that someone used DxO to make such conversions, but aside from that, I dunno any details, but that might be something to look into.
Did you try DRO+? It seems different than regular DRO. |
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emyyl
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Joined: 12 October 2007 Location: Malaysia Online Status: Offline Posts: 18 |
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Posted: 12 October 2007 at 17:25 |
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Hi Vidgamer, good point. I've only tried the regular DRO. Will give the + a try.
I am now trying out RAW files. Hopefully they are more neutral, if not more Minolta. What software would you suggest? Apple's Aperture or Photoshop Elements? I normally don't do any PP. |
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PMacinSeattle
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Joined: 12 April 2007 Location: Australia Online Status: Offline Posts: 1745 |
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Posted: 12 October 2007 at 19:35 |
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emyyl,
on Lightroom v aperture:- I recommend lightroom, maybe its the benefit of being a little behind aperture, maybe its that adobe specialises in this sort of work etc but I found that lightroom is best described as everything aperture was supposed to be. Also on your other point, lightroom gives you the ability to automatically apply changes to camera output immediately upon importing and provides a vast array of tools to tweak a whole range of parameters but is actually strongest in the prescise area you are interested in - color. Finally, for what its worth, I took my last JPG the day I bought lightroom and will never take another one. The inconvienience of the raw to jpg step for those photos that you want to export is nothing compared to the huge step forward you get in control and ultimate quality. Note - DRO doesnt work on RAW photos. |
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the unexamined life is not worth living
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Vidgamer
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Joined: 23 June 2007 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 413 |
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Posted: 13 October 2007 at 07:21 |
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I use "UFRaw", a free program that is actually pretty good. Once you get used to the interface, it's simple to use, and produces great results.
On another web board, they complained a lot about one of the programs adding in NR when you don't request it... for high ISO shots. That seems like an odd way to process raw (where you should have complete control), but if you use high ISO, you probably want to use NR anyways. But still. I'd be tempted to try one of the dedicated RAW commercial programs, but when I tried a couple on my previous camera's RAW files, nothing worked but the free programs -- go figure. So I stuck with what I have been using. (Now, I'd like to see it proven that I'd get better results with other software before I switch.) I definitely like the added power of RAW, but if most of the time I can get good results without postprocessing, then it may be worth it to me to use JPEG most of the time. Anything that is particularly demanding or that I want to treat as special, it is probably worth switching to raw. But I can't imagine using it all the time, at least not yet. [Edit: I think I mentioned DxO before. I'd be more curious to see this than other programs, I think, particularly if I wanted to remap the colors. Also, some people like RawTherapee, which is (mostly) free. In any event, if you're going to make certain adjustments, you're better off starting with the RAW file.... ] Edited by Vidgamer - 13 October 2007 at 07:36 |
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emyyl
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Joined: 12 October 2007 Location: Malaysia Online Status: Offline Posts: 18 |
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Posted: 13 October 2007 at 16:45 |
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Thanks for all your suggestions. I tried a couple of RAW pictures today. They are slightly better than Adobe DEC. PP is a big step for me as I mainly take pictures of family. What's a good book on Lightroom?
All in all, I think I'll get another 5D body. IMO the Minolta magic has ended. The sample pictures I see with the A700 also carry the Sony color signature .......
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