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An Opteka 85mm F1.4 Review

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dca1213 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dca1213 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2010 at 00:17
What I don't see in the photo of the lens is an apeture pin on the mount to interface with the body apeture lever so I don't see how it can work in any mode but manual/stopped down metering mode, seems like the apeture needs to be set manually. Unless I'm missing something it seems that the chipped adaptor would only provide focus confirmation?
Dennis
 



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LetoAtreidesII View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote LetoAtreidesII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2010 at 00:28
It doesn't interface with the aperture, you are correct. The aperture is set manually on the lens (while the camera still thinks the lens is wide open), but the camera can meter it that way and choose the correct shutter speed if you use it to A mode.

It is stop down metering. I just wanted to make it clear that you can still use A mode and have the camera choose the shutter speed.
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Gabriel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Gabriel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2010 at 00:29
There is no aperture linkage, but with a chip you could still use it in A mode. Unless setting aperture on the body you would set aperture on the lens, but the body would adjust shutter speed automatically. (like with other manual lenses)
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dogears View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dogears Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2010 at 00:31
Very nice review albnok!
It's about the same price I got my 85/1.4 :P
That 35mm sounds pretty inviting!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote madtownkeith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2010 at 16:27
Very nice review!

For those who may have missed this thread initially, here's a link to a lengthy discussion about this lens from a few months back - lots of useful info and sample pictures:

Rokinon 85mm discussion
a77, Sigma 18-250, Sony 35 1.8, Sigma 70-200 HSM II, Rokinon 85 1.4, and other gear constantly on rotation :)
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Exminolta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Exminolta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2010 at 20:15
As promised that I'll post more of this great lens. BTW when I removed the spacers (seem my old post) the infinity problem was solved. I can now shoot at far distance and still get it focus right.

Here some more samples.

F1.4


2.0


2.2 or 2.5



F2.8 my favorite


Again as before when the spacer were in placed, this lens has proven it is worthy in my bag. Anyway let me tell you once again that when the original mount is replace with a chipped one, it will onlt register at F1.7 "NOT F1.4"

At F.4

 



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LetoAtreidesII View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote LetoAtreidesII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2010 at 20:35
The aperture should register as whatever the chip says. The chip has no idea what lens you put it on. Some places you buy a chip from will program the chip to whatever focal length and aperture you want, but some places will by default just send you a standard 50mm f1.7 or something. Some random m42 adapter with AF confirmation from ebay is probably like this. So you also shouldn't use SSS with your current chip, as it is most likely not set to be 85mm. Check your EXIF information to see what it is reporting itself to the camera as.
a200 | Sony 18-70 | Sony 24-105 | 50/1.7 | Beercan | 5400HS
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Kaolinchemist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2010 at 22:24
Could you give us more detail on exactly which chip did you buy and maybe explain for us dissasembly noobs what steps you take to actually complete the mod.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote skm.sa100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2010 at 23:02
I got the lens myself and am happy with the performance.
What I would be glad of to see a how-to guide from a newbie perspective on how to mount a chip on the lens. James Lao has 85mm/1.4 chips so i guess I could get one but I've never done anything of this sort before and I'm scared of ending up with a $250 paper weight.
So a guide for dummies from anyone who's modified this lens would be extremely useful.
Thanks!
Sashi
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Exminolta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2010 at 06:56
H O W TO M O U N T M42 TO AF CHIPPED on your SAMYANG/OPTEKA 85mm F1.4

First let's talk about the DONT'S:

1. Do not over tighten anything. Especially during installation of your
   new chip.

2. Do not remove the aperture ring. If you like, you can grill your lens
   with salt and pepper, throw it off a cliff, burn your house with it,
   BUT Never, never, nungca, REMOVE the aperture ring (the one with the
   number that you dial down or up). This will be a disaster, especially
   when you hear that tiny ballbearing snaps away.

3. Do not sue me if you are not successful. You make your own risk, I
   did. Plus I got no money. In addition, taking risks mean New
   Discovery. And well behaved men rarely make history.

**TOOLS NEEDED**

1. M42 to AF Adapter with Chip. Got mine from this fella from Hong Kong

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280440747297&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_2760wt_988

2. Micro screw driver. Can be found anywhere. I got mine with a blacked
   tip. These types are more durable.

3. Drill with drill bits. Sizes are: 1/16 (for the screw hole), and 3/32
   (for counter sinking) and 7/64 or 1/8 (for counter sinking). Note: I
   used all three bits, starting from the smallest going to the largest.

4. Marking tool- can be found at hardware stores. If you can't get one
   use a small nail and slightly tap it with a hammer to make you mark.
5. File- for thinning or shaving.
6. Hammer or Mallet- did I spelled that right?
7. Caliper

Optional:
Small vise grip

**DISASSEMBLY**

STEP 1.
Remove the original mount. Screws to remove = 3.



STEP 2.
Remove the aperture controller- let's just call it that way shall we?
Note: when you do this you will hear your aperture blades snap. This will close them to I think F22- DO not panic.



STEP 3.
Unscrew the plastic spacer. Screws to remove = 4.
This one...


STEP 4.
Set aside you lens. cover it up because you don't want it to get dirty. The next steps will explain why this is so.

**MODIFICATION** But reversable- trust me :)

STEP 1. Get the plastic spacer that we just removed from STEP 4 under Disassembly. Use your file. We need to thin this plastic to "4mm". Do this slowly, I used only the tip part of the file. Take you time, no rush. You can also use sand paper but it could take longer.



Filling will generate dusts- that's why you need to cover your lens really good or put it away for now.


Anyway before we go further let me first explain some to you all.
Do you See this...


This J-shaped metal thingy is where the PIN on the aperture controller will be in between.

This PIN I'm talking about...


Then the other one will sit on the other Pin- that controls the aperture blades. Anyway you will understand this well when you see it.

STEP 2.
Once you get to 4mm. Clean it then but don't put it back yet on the lens. We are gonna use this as reference for the holes on the M42 to AF chipped adapter.


**DRILLING THE HOLES to your Adapter**
STEP 1.
Match the holes and the mounting marker and the white dot. Just spot it with your eye. It is not that hard. I did it by placing my mark just below the outermost line. Like this...



Here's what it looks like after it is marked...




STEP 2.
After making your mark, drill it using your smallest drill bit. I used the 1/16 first.

STEP 3.
Drill to Counter sink. Do this slowly- you do not want to make a big hole or else you screws will just go right through it.

Here...



STEP 4.
Put every thing back and do not forget to set the aperture controller on the right position. Make sure the PIN sits in "between" the J_SHAPED- whatever you call it. And do not over tighten your screws on the M42 chip.

STEP 5.

Test it. See if you can mount it easily without grinding on your Alpha. I did this by mounting it on my old film camera.

Finished product without any spacers.


Good Luck To All and Enjoy.
Nelson Pineda - Exminolta.

Edited by Exminolta - 22 January 2010 at 07:00
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skm.sa100 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote skm.sa100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2010 at 07:11
Exminolta, that's a very good explanation with good pictures.
I hope to try it out someday. When I do, I'll post the results.
Thanks a lot!
Sashi
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LetoAtreidesII View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote LetoAtreidesII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2010 at 08:03
That's a great explanation, but I think photoclubalpha's method sounds much easier:

http://www.dyxum.com/dforum/korean-made-85mm-14-pics-and-thoughts_topic47750_post571428.html#571428

Using the mount that's already on there means you don't have to worry about spacing and getting infinity focus messed up.

I think it would be beneficial to get a James Lao chip so you can specify the correct focal length, to allow proper SSS operation. Or some other vendor who will customize the ROM chip for you, but Lao seems to be the most trusted around here.
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Exminolta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Exminolta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2010 at 19:41
Originally posted by LetoAtreidesII LetoAtreidesII wrote:

That's a great explanation, but I think photoclubalpha's method sounds much easier:

http://www.dyxum.com/dforum/korean-made-85mm-14-pics-and-thoughts_topic47750_post571428.html#571428

Using the mount that's already on there means you don't have to worry about spacing and getting infinity focus messed up.

I think it would be beneficial to get a James Lao chip so you can specify the correct focal length, to allow proper SSS operation. Or some other vendor who will customize the ROM chip for you, but Lao seems to be the most trusted around here.


I think you missed the whole point why I did it this way. First, I would like to be able to put back in original condition, if in case it will be needed. 2nd grinding the plastic spacer does solved the infinity problem , because what they sell in ebay are thinner, therefore by grinding it you them moving the glass near/closer to the sensor. But hey! who am I talking to, you do it this way or that, it's all up to you. I find it nasty to dissect a lens like that by cutting inapropriately. Plus, I really don't care much for James Lao products, this is another, in my opinion, apportunists to make money by exploiting the lacked of knowledge of other members. I am not a fan of buying stuff just because someone said it is good for them. I like to make my own direction instead of following the old beaten path.
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LetoAtreidesII View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote LetoAtreidesII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2010 at 20:22
Originally posted by Exminolta Exminolta wrote:


I think you missed the whole point why I did it this way. First, I would like to be able to put back in original condition, if in case it will be needed. 2nd grinding the plastic spacer does solved the infinity problem , because what they sell in ebay are thinner, therefore by grinding it you them moving the glass near/closer to the sensor. But hey! who am I talking to, you do it this way or that, it's all up to you. I find it nasty to dissect a lens like that by cutting inapropriately. Plus, I really don't care much for James Lao products, this is another, in my opinion, apportunists to make money by exploiting the lacked of knowledge of other members. I am not a fan of buying stuff just because someone said it is good for them. I like to make my own direction instead of following the old beaten path.


You don't need to get so defensive, I'm just letting the other readers know that there is another way as well. I know that you solved the infinity problem by grinding, but then doesn't that negate your first goal of returning it back to original condition, since the spacer is no longer in its original condition?

More to the point, if you'd read the post he says he screwed up by buying the thinner M42 adapter style ROM chip, and if he'd used the AF rechip ROM instead he wouldn't have had to cut into the mount at all. All you'd need is epoxy or the like to glue on the ROM chip.

If you don't want SSS that's fine too, but I would think some members might want it, and for correct operation you'd need a ROM chip that reports an 85mm focal length. As I said, if you find another vendor who will program the ROM chip to specifications instead of Lao that's fine -- it's just that he's a trusted vendor. You can find lots of vendors discussed here. But nearly all of those vendors won't customize the focal length of the ROM chip for you. So how is he exploiting the lack of knowledge by providing a service? Can you reprogram ROM chips yourself? Even if you knew how, do you have the hardware to do it?

Again, as I said, you gave a great explanation. Very detailed. And I'm glad it's working well for you. I just wanted to show another option since I'm sure most people missed it when it was first discussed.
a200 | Sony 18-70 | Sony 24-105 | 50/1.7 | Beercan | 5400HS
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