Indoor Sports Photography

All my shots were at 2.8 at various focal lengths. I wanted to keep aperture wide open to keep ISO down, set to AUTO. SOme shots were better then others. I am not sure what it was maybe the lighing mixed in with a tad of sotness at 2.8. These pictures were nowhere near the shots above. I mean i would keep them but I wouldn't give them to anyone for use anywhere. I would think that shutter speed would be ok because at most times the derby players aren't moving anywhere near as fast as an ice hockey game. I also had my Canon 60D with a 2.0 35mm L lens and was not impressed wither with those pics. I'm just trying to figure out what i did so I can improve technique. Maybe next time i will try faster shutter and use f4.0.
I was also using the center point spot focus with some noise reduction applied. Also had a filter on it and maybe it had a hand in it also.

I did do some of that a few days ago and I thought i noticed some back focusing so i set -6 on AF adjustment and pics seemes sharper, then i took it outside and did some more test shots only to find that it seemed like it wasn't focusing properly on target with -6 set, set it back to 0 micro adjust and it looked good again. Think i am second guessing myself with this. IDK, i'll do some more testing.

In two weeks I will be photographing another roller derby event, with the difference that I will have free access to ground level, as long as I'm not in the way, as I will be one of two or more 'official' photographers.

Every professional photog I've seen there has used a Canon or Sigma 70-200, but I imagine they can rack up the ISO quite well; except once when I saw a shorter prime of some sort together with an external, onboard flash.

The last times I did this it was with the Mino 200 f/2,8 and the 35 f/1,8 SAM, all from a balcony, from which 200mm was a good focal length on a crop sensor. I'd sometimes get ~1/200 - 1/250 with ISO3200 and sometimes ISO1600, at f/2,8 and 200mm and I mostly panned to the rhythm of the derbiers.

I don't have the Mino anymore, nor the A580; instead I thought I'd try with a Sigma 85 f/1,4 and an a77.

From what I've seen, it will be too slow to AF on derbiers coming against me, although I think with AF-C and panning them from the side can work out OK. I have two queries, if they aren't outside the scope of this thread:

For derbiers coming against me:
A. Would setting the A77 to AE Speed 12fps mode and the lens to manual focus work, for prefocusing on a spot a couple of meters in front of me, then let loose the x fine jpegs as they near me? Would keeping the AF on and using one of the two continuous shooting modes work better?

I plan on using a NEX-3 in the same way; manual focus and AE Speed mode, either with the Sigma 19 f/2,8 (it's sharp), or the non-sharp but good-for-BW-portraits Industar 69 f/2,8 - the latter doesn't contribute to the battery drain and this battery drains quickly.

Reg. flash:
B. If I'm allowed flash, would it (the Sony 58) work if I stood it on the floor, to the left of me, and then tried to AF as they came towards me and shoot once with the popup flash to get the 58 to light them from the side, do you think? It would be uneven, but it might look cool, if the af had time to lock.

I have been tempted to acquire a Tokina 80-200 f/2,8, but by all accounts it won't AF terribly fast even on an A77 and might not be all that sharp wide open. And I will not go over IS1600 for any reason; will aim to keep it at 1250.

Any suggestions would be rather welcome. I have photos from the previous events on my flickur if that helps (Grynna).

Swede66 wrote: Ramblings you think, not really, my point with this introduction is, that having played a certain sport is a huge advantage and makes it easier to get the shots you want, that stands out from the others. To know where the action is gonna happen is critical to get the good shots. Trying to follow the game only will make you trigger the shutter a fraction to late and miss the key moments instead of anticipating situations and trusting your instincts.

I think this is by far the most important statement you make regarding (indoor) sportsphotography.

Equipment and technique of course have their role, but the rules are not that different from other forms of shooting. You need to be able to select a decent WB and to select a suitable combination of aperture and shutter speed so you can record a scene you want it to be recorded and poor lighting makes that more difficult. And of course fast lenses and a speedy AF help there. But in the past people did it manually - and quite well.

The most important factor is knowing the particular type of sport. It works two ways - you will most likely have a idea what you want to show and how (and what equipment you will need) and secondly you will be more or less be able to anticipate what will happen where and when. If you don't, most likely you will be too late - each and every time again....

In that respect i like what you say about high speed continuous shooting. I have the same experience. A few shots will do, there is no need for 6 or more. It is all about trying to fire at the precise moment. 10 shots before and 10 shots after do not help you there - if the "middle shot" is just a fraction too soon or too late you still end up with nothing.

As for the settings, mine are somewhat different.

Usually i set a custom WB. As long as the playing field is more or less evenly lit, you can get away with that and you avoid that the WB is influenced by the prominence of clothing in any particular color. That saves time in post processing.

Most times i use manual exposure settings where i choose aperture and shutter speed as required. I start out with some test shots (before the game but with the lighting already on) and then lock the exposure. After that i can change aperture or shutter speed while keeping the EV constant.

Focusing is either AF-C or manual with WA shots.

Because of the low light in the lower leagues i tend to use primes. I find the use of zooms both a boon and a handicap.

The good thing is you can change the framing "on the fly", the downside that you will be trying to record all things that happen all over the place - which imo is quite impossible.

Things get easier when you concentrate on a certain area and then after some time on another. If you are lucky, you end up with some quite good shots - if you are not, you end up with nothing because you happened to be at the wrong place, at the wrong time with unsuitable equipment....

May i ask for a second installment about soccer and tennis?