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interesting Meike MK-320 flash

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Category: Equipment forums
Forum Name: Lighting
Forum Description: For discussion of flashes, strobes and continuous lights
URL: https://www.dyxum.com/dforum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117320
Printed Date: 08 July 2020 at 02:53


Topic: interesting Meike MK-320 flash
Posted By: Mitchins
Subject: interesting Meike MK-320 flash
Date Posted: 12 January 2016 at 20:28
So after being dissatisfied with the FM20 ever since the a99 came out I've wished for something better, the fact that the newer model is just a an adaptor glued to the Minolta mounted version pretty much infuriated me.

Well the wait for me at least is over, picked up an incredibly cheap but full featured and so far well performing flash.

Here's the official link (I think):
mailto:http://www.meikestore.com/product/meike-mk-320-ttl-flash-speedlite-for-sony-a7-a7r-a7s-a7-ii-a77-ii-a6000-nex-6-a58-a99-rx1-rx1r-rx10-rx100-ii-rx100-iii/3392.html - SITE

It's a native Mi mount and the TTL works well with A99, the bounce and swivel performed well with metering too so not just ADI.

It's light because it works off two batteries only (AA), and it has wireless modes I haven't played with.

I suggest anyone in the market for a lightweight and convenient flash give it a look into!

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Sony Alpha 99; Sony 16-35mm F2.8 CZ; Minolta 20mm F2.8; Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM; Sony 50mm f1.4; Sony 70-300mm SSM G; Sony 70-400mm G SSM; Minolta 100-200mm F4.5; Sony 135mm ZA



Replies:
Posted By: thornburg
Date Posted: 12 January 2016 at 20:44
There's already a bit of discussion about this flash in another thread...

But I'm glad to hear of another satisfied customer.

I've still got it sitting in my Amazon cart waiting for me to pull the trigger.

Also, your link shouldn't say "mailto:" at the beginning.

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Sony a3000, a6000, a57, a99 - Sony E 16-50, 28/2 | Vivitar 13, 85 | Minolta 24, 28-105, 35-105, 50/1.7, 75-300 | Tokina 28-70/2.6-2.8 | Sigma 70/2.8 Macro | Tamron 70-200/2.8 | Celestron 1000/11


Posted By: neilt3
Date Posted: 12 January 2016 at 20:56
The flash is one of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331542010801?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT - these ( your link is wrong ), I got mine at the end of the year and it works a treat .
Very happy with it , very versatile and compact .
The wireless slave function is not TTL , purely manual , but is very easy to use for a bit of indirect fill in flash . Ideal for macro / close-ups.

If your considering one , get one .
Very good value for money and well built .



-------------
see my photostream on flickr;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/sets/ - http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.


Posted By: michelb
Date Posted: 13 January 2016 at 00:20
Yes but TTL does not work with unchipped adapted lenses.

On a-Mount since very little lens adapting can take place, this can be interesting.

On E-Mount with all the people adapting anything that is less than a millenium old, it just does not work with those adapted lenses.

When in TTL mode, the rear of the flash shows you the ISO you are working from and the aperture selected on the camera. When using an unchipped lens, the aperture shown is F3.5 and stays there. I tried shooting at F3.5 with some adapted lenses and no go, everything is over/under exposed with no consistency.

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Michel B


Posted By: Mitchins
Date Posted: 13 January 2016 at 00:28
Originally posted by michelb michelb wrote:

Yes but TTL does not work with unchipped adapted lenses.

On a-Mount since very little lens adapting can take place, this can be interesting.

On E-Mount with all the people adapting anything that is less than a millenium old, it just does not work with those adapted lenses.

When in TTL mode, the rear of the flash shows you the ISO you are working from and the aperture selected on the camera. When using an unchipped lens, the aperture shown is F3.5 and stays there. I tried shooting at F3.5 with some adapted lenses and no go, everything is over/under exposed with no consistency.


For me that's not really a big deal, on the A99 it works a treat with the Sigma 35 ART.
It provides a low cost option that has all the functions I need, with enough power for my purposes and very light-weight convenient. Both my Sigma EF-5x0 Supers have DIED! After about 7 years one won't turn on and the other resets to 1:1 just before I fire - well time to move on!. It's a super good value deal.

I'm sure you could easily obtain chipped adaptors (or chips) to make this work properly.
With the extra flange distance unused of the E-mount being available, there's no reason an adaptor couldn't have the option to set the focal length and aperture (like Nikon lets you do!) but that's another matter

FWIW I use manual mode often too, such as on my generic two strobe ring flash, but its nice to have TTL bounce.

EDIT: Personally, I'd be more distraught over the lack of EXIF in post process/archive than the lack of proper TTL flash. I love my metadata.

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Sony Alpha 99; Sony 16-35mm F2.8 CZ; Minolta 20mm F2.8; Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM; Sony 50mm f1.4; Sony 70-300mm SSM G; Sony 70-400mm G SSM; Minolta 100-200mm F4.5; Sony 135mm ZA


Posted By: Mitchins
Date Posted: 13 January 2016 at 00:29
Originally posted by neilt3 neilt3 wrote:

The flash is one of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331542010801?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT - these ( your link is wrong ), I got mine at the end of the year and it works a treat .
Very happy with it , very versatile and compact .
The wireless slave function is not TTL , purely manual , but is very easy to use for a bit of indirect fill in flash . Ideal for macro / close-ups.

If your considering one , get one .
Very good value for money and well built .



Do it!
It's honestly the low cost full featured flash I've been waiting for and it supports the new mount without picky adaptors - damn Sony didn't even bother updating their FM20 properly, psssh!

-------------
Sony Alpha 99; Sony 16-35mm F2.8 CZ; Minolta 20mm F2.8; Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM; Sony 50mm f1.4; Sony 70-300mm SSM G; Sony 70-400mm G SSM; Minolta 100-200mm F4.5; Sony 135mm ZA


Posted By: craig66
Date Posted: 13 January 2016 at 02:12
I also have one of these MK-320s for close up/macro. It works very well on A77ii on-camera. Whether it really is GN 32 is anyone's guess, but the power is quite good. If you want a small flash, it does the business at low cost.


Posted By: IanL
Date Posted: 13 January 2016 at 23:27
Originally posted by Mitchins Mitchins wrote:


For me that's not really a big deal, on the A99 it works a treat with the Sigma 35 ART.


I assume it will not work as a controller for off-camera flash with the Sony system.

-------------
Ian


Posted By: neilt3
Date Posted: 14 January 2016 at 00:30
Originally posted by IanL IanL wrote:

Originally posted by Mitchins Mitchins wrote:


For me that's not really a big deal, on the A99 it works a treat with the Sigma 35 ART.


I assume it will not work as a controller for off-camera flash with the Sony system.


Correct .
It will not act as a wireless controller .

-------------
see my photostream on flickr;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/sets/ - http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.


Posted By: Miranda F
Date Posted: 21 January 2016 at 20:33
I've finally got around to having a play with the Meike 320S flashgun I got before Christmas. I chose this flashgun in preference to the more fully-featured Sony or Nissin models because I wanted something compact that would fit easily in my gadget bag, and because I didnít want to spend a lot of money on something I didnít use very often.

My first impressions were very good Ė it is really quite a neat and compact unit, taking a mere 2 AA cells but with an advertised guide number of 32, it tilts and swivels, and has a backlit LCD display. In use, though, you can't read the labels on the buttons which are very small and black, so you need either glasses and a flashlight or you need to learn what to press.

The Meikeís on-camera performance is also quite good. It works well with the A58, doing TTL properly and relaying the aperture and ISO on the LCD in TTL mode (though the ISO indicated didnít always match what the camera showed after the picture was taken). The area coverage seems good too, easily wide enough for the 18mm lens indoors. It has a manual mode too with power adjustments down to 1/128 in 1/3 stop intervals. You can take it off and stick it in your pocket, and it goes to sleep, then wakes up again when you fit it on the camera. But it is very stiff to put on and take off, though, so scarcely needs the wheel lock provided.

The only criticism I have about on-camera performance is that from the tests Iíve done, the GN seems to be barely 2 stops better than the A58ís built-in flash, so Iím doubtful about the 32GN claimed. On the other hand with the Ďkití 18-55 lens fitted it does provide sufficient power for bounce off a white ceiling at reasonable ISO, which the camera flash doesnít if you try deflecting it.

Off camera is a different story and Iíll admit to being very disappointed. I knew it didnít do HSS or the full WL flash, but as it does have both S1 and S2 modes I expected (perhaps naively) to be able to use it with some degree of auto off-camera, but that isnít really possible. Yes, you can use it as a fill-in to the main flash, eg a backlight, but you canít turn the camera flash down manually on the A58, and if you put it into WL the Meike wonít trigger correctly, even with manually set power.

Off camera you really need both the flash and the camera in manual mode (including manual ISO) because the camera doesnít understand that you have an external flash fitted. I rather hoped that the auto ISO which so accurately adjusts ISO in jpegs after a normal picture would do the same in flash mode, but it doesnít. It picks a figure beforehand (usually 800) and sticks to it even if the end result is black.
You can soften the main flash with a hanky or deflect it upwards (eg with a piece of cardboard covered in foil) to avoid the direct path, allowing you to achieve a side main light with the Meike, but again only in manual.

Now older flashguns used to have an opto sensor which allowed auto power adjustment according to the aperture and ISO set on the dial, without having to judge the flash-to-subject distance, but wouldnít trigger optically; the Meike does the reverse Ė it will trigger optically, but doesnít have any sensing of reflected light so off-camera it is completely dumb. In that respect my old Vivitar 285 is more useful, except that it doesnít have the pre-flash ignore (S2) mode which the Meike has, so to use it I need to put the Meike on the camera and use the Vivitar off-camera.

Which is a two-flash solution, and the Vivitar is big.

So, the summary is that on-camera, the Meike is very versatile and just powerful enough for bounce in a domestic environment, if not a large hall, while off-camera it is of only limited use. Therefore, it canít really compete with the more expensive models on functionality or performance, and when compared with the built-in camera flash the only thing it offers is bounce capability. If that is enough for you (or your camera doesn't have flash), itís a good choice; if you want anything more, save up and get the Nissin i40 or one of the Sony HVL-FxxM models.


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Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .


Posted By: michelb
Date Posted: 22 January 2016 at 01:55
+ 1 on most of what you said.

I also own one (bought it more by curiosity and since there was a local seller here in Montreal, i got it without having to pay for shipping)

A couple of additional comments and questions:

- On A7R/A7II ( have not tried on A-mount camera yet) TTL does not work with unchipped adapted lenses. In this situation,the flash indicates F3.5 and whatever aperture you use it seems to vary power from one shot to the other (a bit like the Phottix Mitros+ and Odin triggers). I see you have some Tamron and MF primes. Does it work on A58 in TTL with any of these MF lenses ?

- Guide Number: For the fun of it i compared it to the Sony HVL-F32M in Manual Mode using a Minolta Flashmeter V for measure. The F32M does not have a test button so on camera in Manual mode at the 28mm setting on the Sony FE28-70 Kit lens, the Sony is 1 1/2 stop more powerful than this "Published Guide No 32". At the 70mm lens setting it is 3 stops less since the Meike does not zoom but the Sony can concentrate the light.

- Red Eye: I tested a couple of close-up shots with the kit zoom on A7II and at the longer setting the angle of the flash being so close to the lens axis provided more red eyes that the HVL-F32M that sits taller a bit.

- You mention using a flash with sensor in on Flash sensor Auto mode as WL remote. I can not see how this can provide any reliable exposure since the trigger flash if it lasts long enough will definitely affect the amount of light your remote will provide.

- You also mention that when used in WL, the S1 mode should work when the camera and built-in flash are in Manual mode since there should not be a pre-flash. My attempts were with S2 mode with TTL on board flash and the trigger occurred at the right time for exposure but i agree it is a pain to figure the power level needed since even the manual provides very little detail about the power level.

-------------
Michel B


Posted By: Miranda F
Date Posted: 22 January 2016 at 13:07
Originally posted by michelb michelb wrote:

+ 1 on most of what you said.

I also own one (bought it more by curiosity and since there was a local seller here in Montreal, i got it without having to pay for shipping)

A couple of additional comments and questions:

- On A7R/A7II ( have not tried on A-mount camera yet) TTL does not work with unchipped adapted lenses. In this situation,the flash indicates F3.5 and whatever aperture you use it seems to vary power from one shot to the other (a bit like the Phottix Mitros+ and Odin triggers). I see you have some Tamron and MF primes. Does it work on A58 in TTL with any of these MF lenses ?

I can try, but I wouldn't expect it. with an unchipped lens the camera has no idea what aperture is present. Even a generic chipped one only tells it *something* - for available light that works, since it only needs to know the difference, but for flash it needs to know the absolute aperture. I don't see how TTL flash could work then.

I generally use a generic chipped M42 adapter with the wide angle Tamrons (mostly 24mm and 28mm primes), but occasionally one of james liao's with the 500mm mirror or 300mm-400mm telephotos. All of them are operated as preset aperture lenses, and the camera seems to cope with that ok in available light.

Originally posted by michelb michelb wrote:


- Guide Number: For the fun of it i compared it to the Sony HVL-F32M in Manual Mode using a Minolta Flashmeter V for measure. The F32M does not have a test button so on camera in Manual mode at the 28mm setting on the Sony FE28-70 Kit lens, the Sony is 1 1/2 stop more powerful than this "Published Guide No 32". At the 70mm lens setting it is 3 stops less since the Meike does not zoom but the Sony can concentrate the light.
[QUOTE]
Not sure I follow this. If the 32M zooms, wouldn't the output be higher at 70mm? And in any case you'd only get full output if the light was insufficient for the aperture in use (result=dark) otherwise the flash will be cut off early.

Originally posted by michelb michelb wrote:


- Red Eye: I tested a couple of close-up shots with the kit zoom on A7II and at the longer setting the angle of the flash being so close to the lens axis provided more red eyes that the HVL-F32M that sits taller a bit.

- You mention using a flash with sensor in on Flash sensor Auto mode as WL remote. I can not see how this can provide any reliable exposure since the trigger flash if it lasts long enough will definitely affect the amount of light your remote will provide.

Yes, but I deflected the camera flash away from the subject with a piece of cereal packet covered in kitchen foil. The bounce light at the subject is then very low, provided I use the right aperture. The snag is that the camera still expects to see a certain amount of light, so I have to use manual settings for aperture and ISO and set the slave flash to this.

[QUOTE=michelb]
- You also mention that when used in WL, the S1 mode should work when the camera and built-in flash are in Manual mode since there should not be a pre-flash. My attempts were with S2 mode with TTL on board flash and the trigger occurred at the right time for exposure but i agree it is a pain to figure the power level needed since even the manual provides very little detail about the power level.


Yes. I think the Meike will work quite well as a manual master flash and with auto-sensing flashes as slaves, but then I can use a cheap £1 junk-box flash for that with some negative film stuck over it for IR trigger*!

Though interestingly enough, not all opto triggers seem to work on IR. The new cubic one I bought on ebay doesn't, but the 20-year old one does.

-------------
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .


Posted By: michelb
Date Posted: 23 January 2016 at 02:36
Quote: I can try, but I wouldn't expect it. with an unchipped lens the camera has no idea what aperture is present. Even a generic chipped one only tells it *something* - for available light that works, since it only needs to know the difference, but for flash it needs to know the absolute aperture. I don't see how TTL flash could work then.

All of my Sony and Minolta compatible flash units work in TTL/HSS with un-chipped adapted lenses on both of my A7R and A7II and are also reliable in Manual flash mode ! They are ( some adapted with sony ADP-MAA adapter):

Minolta 2500D, 3600HS(D), 5600HS(D)
Sony HVL-F20AM And HVL-F20M, HVL-F32M, HVL-F36AM, HVL-F42AM, HVL-F43AM and HVL-F43M, HVL-F56AM, HVL-F58AM, and HVL-F60M

This Meike and my Phottix Mitros+ ( or any of the above Minolta/Sony flash mounted on Odin receivers) do not operate either in TTL/HSS when used with un-chipped lenses.

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Michel B


Posted By: Miranda F
Date Posted: 14 June 2016 at 08:38
I have to downgrade my opinion of the Meike-320 flash after using it a bit. Yes, it's small and neat and cheap and does TTL on camera, but no WL TTL function (or HSS, which you'd not expect at that size and cost).

And the real trouble with it is it takes only two AA cells, runs them down very quickly, and doesn't work with rechargeables which is a pain (it won't even turn on with them in). I assume the cause of both is the battery voltage cut-off point is too high, as most other equipment I have which takes AA cells works fine on rechargeables. So if you're planning to use it much near full power (which is quite easy, given the GN), you need a pocket full of AA cells with you which somewhat negates the virtues of being small and light.

If you only need a low-power bounce flash on-camera for just a few shots it is a good choice, but for much else you may be better off saving up for a Nissin i40 . . .

-------------
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .


Posted By: sybersitizen
Date Posted: 14 June 2016 at 08:53
Originally posted by Miranda F Miranda F wrote:

If you only need a low-power bounce flash on-camera for just a few shots it is a good choice, but for much else you may be better off saving up for a Nissin i40 . . .

Some people are passing up the i40 in favor of a newer and lower-priced contender, the Godox TT685s.

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http://thesybersite.com -


Posted By: Faldrax
Date Posted: 14 June 2016 at 13:45
Originally posted by Miranda F Miranda F wrote:

...And the real trouble with it is it takes only two AA cells, runs them down very quickly, and doesn't work with rechargeables which is a pain (it won't even turn on with them in)...


I picked up one (Neewer branded) for use with my A6000, as the small size makes it portable and a boost from the weak on camera flash.

It may be there are variations between the different branded version of the flash, but I just stuck in a couple of my Eneloop style rechargables, and it worked just fine, so probably worth checking with a different set of batteries just in case.





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2 x A900 + VG
CZ 16-35 f/2.8, Sig 24-70 f/2.8 HSM, Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 Di USD, 70-300G, Tamron 150-600,
50 f/1.4, 85 f/1.4 G RS, 100 f/2.8 macro
F56AM, 3600HSD, Youngno 560-II, 055CXPro3+410 geared


Posted By: Miranda F
Date Posted: 01 October 2016 at 16:24
Interesting. I tried two new NiMH AA batteries, and it works fine.
Doh! Guess I had a bad lot.
Okay, I'll try it out with the NimHs and see how it goes.

-------------
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .


Posted By: napo
Date Posted: 01 October 2016 at 16:42
Originally posted by sybersitizen sybersitizen wrote:

Originally posted by Miranda F Miranda F wrote:

If you only need a low-power bounce flash on-camera for just a few shots it is a good choice, but for much else you may be better off saving up for a Nissin i40 . . .

Some people are passing up the i40 in favor of a newer and lower-priced contender, the Godox TT685s.



Few weeks ago I bought two TT685 and X1 transmitter and I am very happy with them.......

-------------
Love the whole Tree - not just one branch

http://www.georgedoupas.com/ - My Link


Posted By: mrnewba
Date Posted: 17 October 2016 at 21:47
Hi, did anyone tested this flash on a sony a3000? Will it work ok with ttl? I tried two units but with both I couldn't make the ttl mode to work.

When I change values of aperture and ISO on the camera, it will not reflect into the flash, making all photos underexposed.


Posted By: IanL
Date Posted: 17 October 2016 at 22:14
It is a low power flash - perhaps your subject was too far away? Try a close-up shot.

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Ian


Posted By: kefkafloyd
Date Posted: 17 October 2016 at 23:46
Originally posted by napo napo wrote:

Originally posted by sybersitizen sybersitizen wrote:

Originally posted by Miranda F Miranda F wrote:

If you only need a low-power bounce flash on-camera for just a few shots it is a good choice, but for much else you may be better off saving up for a Nissin i40 . . .

Some people are passing up the i40 in favor of a newer and lower-priced contender, the Godox TT685s.



Few weeks ago I bought two TT685 and X1 transmitter and I am very happy with them.......


Did you get the Lithium battery versions or the AA versions? How's the response time in optical wireless mode versus the radio mode?

-------------
http://www.dvincentphotography.com - Daniel Vincent Aviation Photography


Posted By: mrnewba
Date Posted: 17 October 2016 at 23:56
Originally posted by IanL IanL wrote:

It is a low power flash - perhaps your subject was too far away? Try a close-up shot.

Hi, thank you for taking time to answer. I tried that.


Posted By: neilt3
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 00:36
Originally posted by mrnewba mrnewba wrote:

Originally posted by IanL IanL wrote:

It is a low power flash - perhaps your subject was too far away? Try a close-up shot.

Hi, thank you for taking time to answer. I tried that.


What aperture are you using ?
"     ISO    "   "    "   ?
"   shutter speed "    "   ?
How far are you from where your focused at ?
Is the flash firing ?

Hard to say what the problem is if we don't know what your doing .
I have one of these flashes and it works fine with both my a77ii and a3000 .
As noted earlier TTL is not necessarily correct if your using un-chipped lenses , so what lens is on your camera ?   

-------------
see my photostream on flickr;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/sets/ - http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.


Posted By: michelb
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 00:42
What lens are you using. The on i have does not work at all with un-chipped adapted lenses ( Rear panel says F3.5 and it can not say this so it flashes at full power all the time)

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Michel B


Posted By: mrnewba
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 00:43
Originally posted by neilt3 neilt3 wrote:

Originally posted by mrnewba mrnewba wrote:

Originally posted by IanL IanL wrote:

It is a low power flash - perhaps your subject was too far away? Try a close-up shot.

Hi, thank you for taking time to answer. I tried that.


What aperture are you using ?
"     ISO    "   "    "   ?
"   shutter speed "    "   ?
How far are you from where your focused at ?
Is the flash firing ?

Hard to say what the problem is if we don't know what your doing .
I have one of these flashes and it works fine with both my a77ii and a3000 .
As noted earlier TTL is not necessarily correct if your using un-chipped lenses , so what lens is on your camera ?   


Hi, thank you! I'm using ISO 400, shutter speed at 1/60 and aperture 5.6 on the sel 1855 kit lens. The flash fires but will not expose correctly. But when I set the flash in manual mode or s1 or s2 it fires with correct power.

Can you tell me that when you attach you mk320 into your a3000, in ttl mode, when you change parameters in the camera, will it change in the flash too?

The room is little bit dark but not completely, there is one led lamp only and I'm about 2 meters from the subject.


Posted By: michelb
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 01:27
What flash settings do you have on the camera ?

- Flash mode should be "Forced Flash". If in WL, this would explain the lack of proper exposure

- Flash exposure compensation should be at 0 BOTH on the camera AND on the flash. If set at other settings ( mainly minus 3) would also explain underexposure ( plus 3 would create huge overexposure)

You can limit the power of this flash even in TTL (down to 1/128) If so the rear panel of the flash will show this fraction: it should be set at 1/1 which won't show anything besides the +/- signs in the middle of the rear screen of the flash


Question: When set for TTL do you see the aperture setting change at the rear of the flash and does it match that setting on the camera ? like in the attached picture ? If anything different at the back of the flash this may be the reason




-------------
Michel B


Posted By: neilt3
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 01:49
Just tried the flash on my a3000 with the 18-55mm lens on .
Works perfect .
Spot on exposure when set to TTL in any mode . aperture priority , shutter priority or manual .
Correct exposure regardless of if it was direct flash or bounce flash .
Tried it with the supplied diffuser in both positions , exposure was still spot .
Changed the aperture on the camera , and the correct aperture is shown on the back of the flash .
At all apertures , exposure is spot on .
Took some shots close up and some up to about 3 metre away .
All shots were correctly exposed .

Whatever the issue is , it's not a compatibility issue .

Put your camera on the green auto mode on the dial .
That will rule out if you've got a setting wrong on the camera .
Then , if that doesn't give a correct exposure , it must be a setting on your flash .

The only other thing is could be is if the flash is faulty .
Do you know anyone else with a Sony camera to try the flash on ?

-------------
see my photostream on flickr;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/sets/ - http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.


Posted By: mrnewba
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 02:11
Originally posted by michelb michelb wrote:

What flash settings do you have on the camera ?

- Flash mode should be "Forced Flash". If in WL, this would explain the lack of proper exposure

- Flash exposure compensation should be at 0 BOTH on the camera AND on the flash. If set at other settings ( mainly minus 3) would also explain underexposure ( plus 3 would create huge overexposure)

You can limit the power of this flash even in TTL (down to 1/128) If so the rear panel of the flash will show this fraction: it should be set at 1/1 which won't show anything besides the +/- signs in the middle of the rear screen of the flash


Question: When set for TTL do you see the aperture setting change at the rear of the flash and does it match that setting on the camera ? like in the attached picture ? If anything different at the back of the flash this may be the reason




I set fill flash on my camera. It doesn't have WL option. Flash compensation and exposure compensation are both set to zero, including the flash setting.

When I set TTL mode on flash, it remains fixed iso50 and 3.5 aperture with my 1855 lens. Even when I change settings on camera it will show only iso50 and 3.5 aperture.


Posted By: mrnewba
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 02:13
Originally posted by neilt3 neilt3 wrote:

Just tried the flash on my a3000 with the 18-55mm lens on .
Works perfect .
Spot on exposure when set to TTL in any mode . aperture priority , shutter priority or manual .
Correct exposure regardless of if it was direct flash or bounce flash .
Tried it with the supplied diffuser in both positions , exposure was still spot .
Changed the aperture on the camera , and the correct aperture is shown on the back of the flash .
At all apertures , exposure is spot on .
Took some shots close up and some up to about 3 metre away .
All shots were correctly exposed .

Whatever the issue is , it's not a compatibility issue .

Put your camera on the green auto mode on the dial .
That will rule out if you've got a setting wrong on the camera .
Then , if that doesn't give a correct exposure , it must be a setting on your flash .

The only other thing is could be is if the flash is faulty .
Do you know anyone else with a Sony camera to try the flash on ?


Omg, I'm even more afraid now. I tried two mk320 on my a3000. One of them I know that is working because it was my friend's flash that he uses on his a6000 and nex 6 and works ok. But on my a3000 it didn't work. :(

The weird thing is that we also tried his hvl-f60m and everything work perfect.

What firmware version your a3000 runs? Mine is 1.00.

If you don't mind, could you please record a video to show exactly how you are doing? I think I'm doing something stupid and things are not working because of that.


Posted By: neilt3
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 02:33
Firmware V 1.00 is the only firmware version .
There have been no updates .
The fact that a f60 flash functions correctly rules out the camera having a faulty hot shoe .
But the fact that you've tried another 320 flash on the camera that you know works on a Sony camera , but not yours is strange .
Did your flash work fine on his camera ?

Have you tried it with the camera on auto ?

Very puzzling .

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see my photostream on flickr;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/sets/ - http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.


Posted By: neilt3
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 02:40
I've no idea how to post a video to show you !

If you haven't got it sorted by tomorrow I will put some pictures on of the setting on the flash and the camera so you can make sure both are set up the same way .
It's 2:30 in the morning in this part of the world , so I need some sleep !
Good luck .

-------------
see my photostream on flickr;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/sets/ - http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.


Posted By: mrnewba
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 02:52
Originally posted by neilt3 neilt3 wrote:

Firmware V 1.00 is the only firmware version .
There have been no updates .
The fact that a f60 flash functions correctly rules out the camera having a faulty hot shoe .
But the fact that you've tried another 320 flash on the camera that you know works on a Sony camera , but not yours is strange .
Did your flash work fine on his camera ?

Have you tried it with the camera on auto ?

Very puzzling .


I don't have my flash anymore. I returned it for refund. :/

I tried on full auto but it didn't work either. This is driving me crazy. Lol


Posted By: mrnewba
Date Posted: 18 October 2016 at 02:54
Originally posted by neilt3 neilt3 wrote:

I've no idea how to post a video to show you !

If you haven't got it sorted by tomorrow I will put some pictures on of the setting on the flash and the camera so you can make sure both are set up the same way .
It's 2:30 in the morning in this part of the world , so I need some sleep !
Good luck .


Thank you very mutch, sir. It will be of great help if you could upload some images.


Posted By: neilt3
Date Posted: 19 October 2016 at 00:29
Originally posted by mrnewba mrnewba wrote:


Thank you very mutch, sir. It will be of great help if you could upload some images.


It's very straight forward .

This is how the display on the flash is ;
https://flic.kr/p/MTw8QU"> https://flic.kr/p/MTw8QU -
Meike MK320 setup for TTL by https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/ - Neil , on Flickr

And this is what the LCD on the camera shows ;
https://flic.kr/p/MnWebi"> https://flic.kr/p/MnWebi -
a3000 set up for flash by https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/ - Neil , on Flickr

TTL flash metering is fine , exposure compensation works fine .
Everything works as it's supposed to .

Borrow your mates flash , check it's set up the same , and see if it's working correct .
Can't see why it wouldn't .
If that one works on his camera and a Sony flash works on yours , it should rule out and faults such as a bad connection .
And as you can see , it's works fine with my a3000.

-------------
see my photostream on flickr;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/sets/ - http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.


Posted By: mrnewba
Date Posted: 19 October 2016 at 01:32
Hi, thank you again my friend. I will try again. I just bought a f58am plus the adaptor adp maa. When every thing arrives here we will try again. I also have an a37.

Is there a way to check mk320 firmware? It has a micro USB slot.

Every thing is pointing to a bad connection.


Posted By: neilt3
Date Posted: 20 October 2016 at 11:17
I've no idea about the flashes firmware .
I can't find the manual for the flash to check , might be worth looking on Meikes website .
I bought the flash when it first came out , so it must have the original firmware on it , never updated it .
The a3000 is as it came out of the factory , again these haven't had a firmware update , and everything works correctly .
So that shouldn't be an issue .

It's hard to say how it could be a connection problem .
You've had the HVL-f60m flash on your camera , and that worked fine .
So you know the cameras fine .

The MK320 works fine on your friends a6000 .
So you know the flash is fine .


If camera and flash were set up as seen in the photo's , everything should be good .

Very strange .




-------------
see my photostream on flickr;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/sets/ - http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.


Posted By: mrnewba
Date Posted: 21 October 2016 at 14:00
Hi, my f58am arrived yesterday and I tested it on my a37 and on my a3000 with adp-maa adapter. It worked flawlessly on both cameras. I think you solved the problem: bad connection. I'll not buy another mk320. Perhaps the new godox for sony MI.

Thank you all for you help. :-)


Posted By: Miranda F
Date Posted: 28 October 2016 at 22:24
I've used the Meike a bit on my A58 now, so I thought I'd write some impressions from the point of view of someone who is still a comparative novice with flash.

First the gripes:
With only two AA cells, battery life is short. I had trouble initially getting it to work at all with rechangeable cells, but buying a couple of new sets cured that. It will run them down if left in, so I take a spare set of charged cells whehn I'm planning to use it.

It has a number of interesting functions and some quite useful ones, but no HSS, so if you want fill-in flash at wide aperture in daylight you'll need a large ND filter, and the Meike is just powerful enough to do this if you're not too far away.

On Camera:
It works well on the camera, with accurate TTL and EV compensation either off camera, or in-camera provided I remember to set the A58 to ADI flash (pre-flash TTL seems to ignore the -2EV fill-in command). However I find the ISO and apertures repeated on the flash are usually wrong (typically twice the real ISO).

For a cheap flash it is more than powerful enough for portraits and groups in low light levels. It also will reduce power to less than the A58's on-camera flash, which is good because the A58 flash won't go low enough for f1.8 portraits at 1-2m.

I find that Gary Friedman's advice to use a piece of bent white card as a reflector/diffuser works well with the Meike, giving some nice modelling. I use a shirt-stiffener cut into a wedge shape and held on with an elastic band. Seems to work best if the model looks away from the flash.

Off-camera:
The Meike has S1 and S2 modes, so it can be used off-camera with either the camera flash as a trigger (which has a pre-flash in all modes) or a manual flash as trigger. But it only works in manual mode off-camera (and can't be adjusted form the camera), which is fine for posed portraits where you have time to adjust things but a nuisance for shots on the fly.

I found with off-camera portraits (direct flash, not bounce) I needed 1/64 power at 2m with an f1.8 50mm lens which worked well, and leaves plenty of power for bounce when the room isn't strongly coloured.

Other stuff:
I converted a small cheap flash diffuser into a magnifier (with two fresnel lenses back to back replacing the diffuser screen) for birding which doubles the Gn but runs the batteries down really quickly.

The flash is quite dinky so it will sit in a side pocket of the gadget bag without displacing any lenses, and with the 'Friedmann diffuser' it takes some pleasing portraits on camera which is something of a nivelty for an on-camera flash! The diffuser fits into the gadget bag easily too, so the Meike has earned its place for this, at least until I decide to get smething better.




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Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .


Posted By: Matt
Date Posted: 24 June 2019 at 08:43
I bought this flash to be used on my A55 and A77II.

On the A77II:

  • TTL works, but is underexposed. When replacing the eneloop batteries in the flash by Duracell AA batteries, the underexposure with TTL was a lot less. Eneloops were freshly charged.

  • Manual works fine.


On the A55:

  • ADP-AMA adapter has to be used (I have the original Sony).

  • TTL does NOT work. You can see the pre-flashes for the TTL measuring, but the flash does not send out the main flash pulse, so you end up with a very dark picture. The problem is not the adapter. I have a pair of Nissin Di700A flashes, and they work fine on the A55 in TTL with the ADP-AMA adapter. I tried with the camera in ADI and pre-flash TTL mode.
    I also tried the Meike flash on the my ancient Konica-Minolta DiMAGE A2 using the ADP-AMA adapter. Exactly the same bevahiour as on the A55.

  • Manual works fine.



As TTL does not work on the camera I intended to use it, which is the A55, I will return it. Since the Nissin flashes work fine on the A55 (and even the old A2), the firmware in the Meike is not fully compatible with all Sony cameras.


Posted By: Miranda F
Date Posted: 24 June 2019 at 09:59
Curious. I still carry that sometimes, but also use the Godox X1 which is not much bigger and has HSS.

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Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .


Posted By: Matt
Date Posted: 25 June 2019 at 13:47
I tried again on the A55 + ADP-AMA adapter, just to be sure.

Tried the Nissin Di700A flash: works fine

Tried the Meike MK-320: does not work. What I noted also is that the aperture indication on the flash is always F3.5, whatever I set on the A55. So the Aperture information is not received correctly by the flash for whatever reason. This again points into the direction of an incompatibilty between older Sony cameras and this flash.



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