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eBay Tips

Printed From: Dyxum.com
Category: Equipment forums
Forum Name: External Sales & Discussion
Forum Description: Sharing external sale links, shopping discussions and recommendations
URL: https://www.dyxum.com/dforum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4697
Printed Date: 18 August 2019 at 15:38


Topic: eBay Tips
Posted By: dCap
Subject: eBay Tips
Date Posted: 22 June 2006 at 00:31
This thread is a place where I shall start a list of eBay tips and tricks and advice, mostly camera kit related, but its general eBay. We have some proficient eBay buyers and sellers in here, but we do also have Qs from eBay newbies. These are just off the top of my head to get the subject started, I'll edit it and tidy it up as we get responses.

Depending on the replies, I may either copy and paste and then delete the messages, and make it all just one page on eBay tips with little headings, or maybe just leave it as a 'thread' ... we'll see. I'll list all authors at the bottom of the page.

*************************

dcap (and others) guide to eBay:

For the Buyer
- know your stuff, know exactly the item you are looking for, know the version, and find images of it elsewhere so you can recognise it in the photos
- set your own maximum price, and stick to it.
- if in doubt do not bid
- lurk, get a feel for the price range of an item
- are you paying more on eBay than a local used store, if so, why?
- don't be afraid to "ask the seller a question"
- don't expect answer back from the seller if you ask a question in the last hour of the auction! We don't all watch our auctions close!
- some people list lenses like this: 85/1.4, or 1.4/85, or 85mm f1/1.4 .... make some guesses when searching.
- search with wildcards: " Smooth Tran* " will find a lens, "Smooth Transition Focus" will not find a lens listed as Smooth Trans Focus.
- leave feedback for your sellers
- never login to eBay drunk!

******

For the Seller
- time your sale! Having an auction listing that closes at 7am on a Sunday isn't going to have very many last minute watchers on it!
- best close times are Sun/Mon 9-10pm, (need some backup from you guys here, do you think the same?)
- Fri 11pm and Sat 11pm, people are either in the pub, on the town, watching a film, or in bed ... not a good time to end an auction (need some backup from you guys here)
- end time mid morning/afternoon on a week day: people are at work, again, not many last minute bidders
- do not list a page with 5 screens of Ts &Cs, it puts people off. If you must have an elaborate Ts & Cs page, put it on your about me page
- make an about me page! Even if its a one-liner: "my name is George and I sell used camera equipment and reconditioned washing machines". or make a fuller one, with your payment rules explained, make it friendly but to the point.
- be clever with the content of the ad. Selling a 35mm f2 should have these words on the page 35 35mm 35/2 2/35 f2 to capture all searches relating to that ad
- do not SPAM your search terms, that same 35/2 sale. Having the words 600mm f4, Dynax 9D, STF 135 ... this is SPAMMING your ad, again, its against eBay policy, see it, report it.
- if the lens is free of oily blades, free of mould, state it - you will only get asked if not! Even if you say its MINT and as new, people still ask!
- leave feedback for your buyers

******

Feedback
- read some of it, don't just look at the numbers
- click a few items, check that the seller has been selling valuable stuff, not $1 items!
- see the negative entries, if they are from people with 0 or 1 feedback point themselves, then often the feedback is invalid, its a case of bad comms or someone not used to ebaying

******

Foreign language ads
- eBay Germany is one of the biggest European places to see Minolta lenses for sale. Paste eBay page into one of the translations website and read the ad in your own language. If in any doubt, "ask the seller a question", ask them in very simple plain language, then you can translate the reply

******

BIN: Buy It Now
- sometimes by the time you've read the ad, its already sold. Read quickly! But read it all.
- if you are not looking for huge profits, this can be a good route to sale.

******

Strange but True
- quite often, listings that start at 0.99 with no reserve end up with: more watchers, more bidders, and a higher final price than items with a reserve or with a high start price.
- we've seen item start at 0.99 with a BIN of $400, take some bids, and close for $500
- these things make very little sense, but watch a few auctions, and these are indeed: strange but true!

******

Payment
- PayPal is hugely popular on eBay (eBay owns PayPal). Its fast, it can enable same day shipping. But there are fees, it pays to read the small print in the terms, and add up those %ages, for big items it can make a difference. This is normally a hit for the seller!
- it is against eBay policy to charge a buyer the PayPal fees. If you see it, report it, and the seller will get a warning.
- not every country is supported by PayPal, do you want to exclude those buyers? Consider the alternatives.

******

Postage
- watch the postage cost
- some sellers hide their fees in the postage, its a bit 'bad policy' but if you are happy with the total price, why not?
- check the return policy if they have one, it may be minus postage?

******

International
(I'll pop something in here tomorrow night)

******

Oddities
- listings without photos? Why isn't there a photo?

******

BAD tricks & SCAMS
- someone might have a 100% (50) rating, but they may have sold 50x $1 items and delivered everyone of them.
- check the feedback profile, if the eBay account has been dormany for 2 years and then there is a BIN for a 600/4, its probably a scam

*************************

-------------
2005 = Dynax 7D and various prime lenses and Maxxum 7D
then I moved to Nikon, then I added some Olympus
30-Nov-2018 = Panasonic G80 + 12-35/2.8 <<< planning to shoot with just this camera/lens in 2019



Replies:
Posted By: nigelbrooks
Date Posted: 22 June 2006 at 10:26
Two more tips to add.

For Sellers
Take your photos of the item for sale, then pack it VERY carefully.
Assuming you don't have accurate postal scales, take it to the Post Office (or courier) and get it weighed for accurate carriage costs.
List carriage options (with and without insurance if you want) but make it clear that items sent without insurance are totally, absolutely and irrevocably at the buyer's risk.

For Buyers
Avoid China.
Actually that's not fair but most of the hijack scams come from China. If you feel you must buy from a China-based seller then review the feedback VERY carefully.
Ofetn you will see a mtrix of buyers/sellers where they have each sold lots of L/$1-5 items to each other to get good feedback ratings and suddenly have a 7D for sale for a ridiculously low price.

THE OVERARCHING MAXIMS
If you are in doubt, don't do it.
If it seems too good to be true then it probably is; walk away and let some other poor soul get scammed.


-------------
I've been away!


Posted By: Bela
Date Posted: 22 June 2006 at 11:09
I think there is one more subject for buyers: how to handle items sold by e-bay newcomers??
This question is actually quite important because of the risks and opportunities involved.
The generic rule is that you don't want to buy anything expensive from someone who has only a few feedbacks. On the other hand he/she could be an honest ebayer and because everybody tries to avoid him/her you could make a good deal.
I've bought a perfect 200HS from a newcomer for Ł350 and it was a wonderful deal. I have also bought a crap 24mm from a seller with 10k positive transactions.
So how do you decide? Well - 6th sense? Read between the lines..

-------------
Final lineup is a myth.


Posted By: nazzza
Date Posted: 22 June 2006 at 13:48
First of all
Congratulations for your new "job" Dcap!

Here there are some little observation I've done in my short experience.
For the buyer:
you find best prices when the seller don't know what he is selling (no photo hobbyst), so when there are items listed as "reflex bag and accessories" ; probably they received the "bag" from the father don't search only for "35mm f/2", if you go for "minolta reflex" you have to read thousands of auctions but find nice surprises
I never had problems with private sellers , only with a shop: read also the withdrawn feedback!

For the seller
Seems to me that the best close time is Monday at 17-19 (should be before close office? )
I prefer to sell more items in the same time and post them in different ebay (I post in ebay.de and ebay.uk , but also ebay.fr and ebay.es , so more ebayers will see the items, for example now I have items on 4 different ebay, and at 4 days from the end I have on 2 items over 65 watchers)
I prefer to wait to have some items as a 50mm 1.7 or a 500mm in my auctions, so more ebayers will watch for my other items

ciao
nazzza
Sorry , but today I have more troubles then usual with my english :)


Posted By: jaquoval
Date Posted: 22 June 2006 at 18:33
A few more tips for buyers. Some are an expansion on concepts already mentioned.
DCap - feel free to edit/move/hack/delete as required.

If you have any uncertainty about the listing (model, condition, shipping cost not specified, etc) don't guess - Ask! A good seller will respond promptly with photos or information. If they're not co-operative at this point, you probably don't want to do business with them.

As Nazzza mentions, there can be some good deals from folks who don't really know what they're selling. The flip side of that of course is that they may not be able to accurately evaluate condition - proceed with caution.

Read the seller's feedback. It's not unusual to find negative comments posted as positives, to avoid retribution. Negatives left by new users who may not understand the system or those listed as "no longer a registered user" can often be discounted, as can those left by other 'poor percentage' users who respond to negatives with negatives even when they were at fault.

Leave useful feedback, to help the next guy:
":::P::: :::E::: :::R::: :::F::: :::E::: :::K::: :::T:::" is virtually useless.
"Nice lens, as described. Well packed. Good communic but slow ship." is much more helpful.

Scams:
Seeing a lot of account hijacking these days. Telltale signs are big-ticket items inconsistent with seller history (e.g. seller with perfect feedback gained by selling baby clothes suddenly has dslr's, laptops and high-end audio equipment), seller location different from item location, and direct email contact links in the listing ("BIN available!! Email me at *****@aol.com for details!"). Report these if you see them.

Searching:
Be inventive with your search terms and don't just stick to the most obvious category. I've found Minolta lenses listed under canon or nikon, 'Vintage', Antiques and Collectibles, Consumer Electronic Equipment, even Power Tools. Be cautious with items that are severely miscategorized, though - that's another tactic that seems to be used by account hijackers (possibly to avoid detection...?)

This may be contentious, but my recommendation is that unless you're going to use 'Buy it Now', don't bother bidding early in the auction. Most of the serious action happens in the last 5 minutes (sometimes the last 5 seconds). All you do with early bids is give other buyers something to bounce their bids off of and ultimately drive up the price. Do your research and figure out the maximum you're willing to bid, then place that bid as late in the sale as you can manage. If it goes over your max before that point or if you still get outbid, shrug your shoulderss and move on - there'll always be a next time. Some folks use sniping software - I personally prefer to do things manually. (Seems fairer to me, and you can't beat the adrenaline rush... ;)

I know this is not always possible depending on buyer/seller location, etc, but I prefer listings where paypal buyer protection is offered, with payment made via paypal, funded by credit card. This gives you 3 avenues of recourse if things turn sour:
- Paypal buyer protection - have had to use this a couple of times - both non-delivery. Slow but effective.
- Reversal of charges thru credit card provider. haven't had to use this myself for any ebay transaction, and I gather that paypal frowns upon it, but a good backup to the first option.
- Ebay Purchase Protection - last resort - limited usefullness.
Obviously these should only be used in case of major dispute (non-delivery; non-functional; significantly different than described) that can't be resolved by direct communication with the seller (ALWAYS the preferred approach).


Posted By: jaquoval
Date Posted: 22 June 2006 at 19:23
Meant to mention, as well:
Dyxum member seagr112 has written some http://search.reviews.ebay.com/members/seagr112_W0QQuqtZg - ebay guides that are well worth a read.


Posted By: dCap
Date Posted: 22 June 2006 at 21:54
cool, lots of input. I will have a good read through and move all of the information to the original start topic. I'll edit as fitting, and make new subheadings to make it all more readable. I'll then either pop your Dyxum tag at the bottom as a co-author. For the moment I won't read the eBay guide and see how we get on with Dyxum advice first.

I think, I may also make a clear subsection to that thread about newbie buying and newbie selling. Agree with what is put, I personall don't bid/buyer from new eBayers. But I have to admit I have had some of the very smoothest sales to two people with ZERO rating, joined eBay to buy my lens. So, newess does not mean unable or unwilling.

Keep it coming people.

-------------
2005 = Dynax 7D and various prime lenses and Maxxum 7D
then I moved to Nikon, then I added some Olympus
30-Nov-2018 = Panasonic G80 + 12-35/2.8 <<< planning to shoot with just this camera/lens in 2019


Posted By: santiclaws
Date Posted: 23 June 2006 at 00:19
For US sellers: keep in mind the time differences. You don't want to have your auction end when half the country is asleep.

I also like to end auctions on paydays or the day after. People are willing to spend a little more when they have money in the bank.


Posted By: Its Atomic
Date Posted: 23 June 2006 at 02:26
Sellers: the one that really gets me is: why are you selling this lens???

Don't tell me how incredibly sharp, fast and accurate a lens is and then leave me wondering why you are selling it, it makes no sense!


Posted By: Kumakichi
Date Posted: 23 June 2006 at 05:27
Lots of stuff covered already. I'd just like to add one small thing.

1. Try to read between the lines regarding lense on auction on Ebay. Sometimes people aren't so camera savvy. Other times they are just hyping the lense. When I read a post and the wording seems a bit vague or leaves a lot of latitude open I go right to the sellers feedbacks. Are they a power seller or are they just a regular individual like me. How good is there feedback. What kind of items do they generally sell. Y

You can answer a lot of your own questions or at least build somewhat of a background on a seller. And I think that really pays off in the long run. There are few things more disappointing than paying money for camera equipment only to find out you've been deceived. So use your common sense and if necessary your gut feeling about auctions. If something smells fishy its ok to pass on that auction and wait for the next one!


Posted By: digitalshooter
Date Posted: 23 June 2006 at 13:39
Some folks have 2 ID's one for selling and one for buying.


Posted By: dCap
Date Posted: 23 June 2006 at 15:45
Originally posted by digitalshooter digitalshooter wrote:

Some folks have 2 ID's one for selling and one for buying.


that is against eBay policy I think? That would mean you could "Shill Bid" ... bid on your own item to bump the price up. If you see evidence of it, report it. Their accounts will be closed asap.

typo: SHILL bidding. I'll add that to the updated thread when I re-write it at the w/e

Thanks

-------------
2005 = Dynax 7D and various prime lenses and Maxxum 7D
then I moved to Nikon, then I added some Olympus
30-Nov-2018 = Panasonic G80 + 12-35/2.8 <<< planning to shoot with just this camera/lens in 2019


Posted By: nazzza
Date Posted: 26 June 2006 at 17:24
For the seller:
Control always if there are events ending when your auction ends.
For example:
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER ends auctions when there is an important world cup match (as I've done :( ) if you don't want lose last second bidders!!!!!!!!!!!
;)
ciao
nazzza


Posted By: Minoks
Date Posted: 27 June 2006 at 12:43
Originally posted by jaquoval jaquoval wrote:

This may be contentious, but my recommendation is that unless you're going to use 'Buy it Now', don't bother bidding early in the auction. Most of the serious action happens in the last 5 minutes (sometimes the last 5 seconds). All you do with early bids is give other buyers something to bounce their bids off of and ultimately drive up the price. Do your research and figure out the maximum you're willing to bid, then place that bid as late in the sale as you can manage. If it goes over your max before that point or if you still get outbid, shrug your shoulderss and move on - there'll always be a next time. Some folks use sniping software - I personally prefer to do things manually. (Seems fairer to me, and you can't beat the adrenaline rush... ;)

On the contrary, my recommendation is to always place a bid if you are really interested (I've won an auction although not being the hig bidder, and below the price I set as my limit). Seller can cancel bids following his own policy, winning bidder can fail to complete the buy, etc.

If you are afraid of bidding too early, place a bid below what you are willing to pay, but not too low; something like "wow!, if i can get it at that price...". You can always place a highest one at a later time, perhaps in the last minute of the auction.

-------------
Minoks


Posted By: dCap
Date Posted: 27 June 2006 at 20:51
Originally posted by Minoks Minoks wrote:

Originally posted by jaquoval jaquoval wrote:

This may be contentious, but my recommendation is that unless you're going to use 'Buy it Now', don't bother bidding early in the auction. Most of the serious action happens in the last 5 minutes (sometimes the last 5 seconds). All you do with early bids is give other buyers something to bounce their bids off of and ultimately drive up the price. Do your research and figure out the maximum you're willing to bid, then place that bid as late in the sale as you can manage. If it goes over your max before that point or if you still get outbid, shrug your shoulderss and move on - there'll always be a next time. Some folks use sniping software - I personally prefer to do things manually. (Seems fairer to me, and you can't beat the adrenaline rush... ;)

On the contrary, my recommendation is to always place a bid if you are really interested (I've won an auction although not being the hig bidder, and below the price I set as my limit). Seller can cancel bids following his own policy, winning bidder can fail to complete the buy, etc.

If you are afraid of bidding too early, place a bid below what you are willing to pay, but not too low; something like "wow!, if i can get it at that price...". You can always place a highest one at a later time, perhaps in the last minute of the auction.



Actually, I like that idea Minoks. I've had a few items via 2nd chance. One from a buyer that dropped out. Another from a store selling several of an item, so I got mine for my bid.

If you are going to bid early. Then bid and then walk away from the auction .... until the last seconds. Then it looks like you have forgotten about the auction! I've seen lots where you have a buyer pop in and out and bid several times (actual bids, not their original bid being bumped due to other bidders).

So either
- Lurk and bid at the end, or
- bid early and forget, or
- bid early and then be there at the end

There is also some snipe software you can use?

-------------
2005 = Dynax 7D and various prime lenses and Maxxum 7D
then I moved to Nikon, then I added some Olympus
30-Nov-2018 = Panasonic G80 + 12-35/2.8 <<< planning to shoot with just this camera/lens in 2019


Posted By: bengeo
Date Posted: 27 June 2006 at 21:35

>> I've had a few items via 2nd chance

An explanation of how that works would be good. New users could think it is a scam as it can seem odd when it happens.

Andy


Posted By: dCap
Date Posted: 27 June 2006 at 23:14
Originally posted by bengeo bengeo wrote:


>> I've had a few items via 2nd chance

An explanation of how that works would be good. New users could think it is a scam as it can seem odd when it happens.

Andy


Briefly. And for all eBay comms. You'll see the offer from within your eBay account.

Once you get a "second chance offer" ... check back to the original ad, and look at the bidding. Most case you will be the 2nd highest bidder. Normal run of events is that for some reason the top bidder didn't check out (either pulled out or hadn't read something in the small print, like for example 'paypal only').

Some sellers have a 'pay within 72 hrs' clause. So you might get your second chance offer 72 hrs after auction close.

You are NOT obliged to take the item. Lets day you were bidding on a 20/2.8, you missed this deal, and got another deal - so you are clear from the 1st one.

Chance might be that you still want it. You can accept and then pay as if you won the item. Or decline, in which case the seller may give the 2nd chance offer to the 3rd highest bidder. So, it is possible that you are the 3rd or 4th higest bidder - although in that case, I think most sellers would just re-list it?

-------------
2005 = Dynax 7D and various prime lenses and Maxxum 7D
then I moved to Nikon, then I added some Olympus
30-Nov-2018 = Panasonic G80 + 12-35/2.8 <<< planning to shoot with just this camera/lens in 2019


Posted By: dCap
Date Posted: 28 June 2006 at 20:28
I'll also add a new section called "Time of Day (International)"
- please remember that there will quite possibly be a difference in time zone between buy and seller

"Holidays"
- generally its a bit silly to broadcast the fact that you are on holiday during your auction!
- at the same time, if you are on hols or away on business for a few days after your auction closes, this can look like you are not replying to "final price" questions.
- as a buyer on hols, you may end up listed as a non-payer (72hr is the general adopted rule on time to pay up) ... so be clever with your timing

-------------
2005 = Dynax 7D and various prime lenses and Maxxum 7D
then I moved to Nikon, then I added some Olympus
30-Nov-2018 = Panasonic G80 + 12-35/2.8 <<< planning to shoot with just this camera/lens in 2019


Posted By: Bob J
Date Posted: 19 July 2006 at 11:01
For sellers, what is the form on adding links to other sites that give info or opinions about the lens - for instance the Dyxum lens reviews or Dcap's pages? Is it allowed? Is it bad ettiquette?

Bob

-------------
RBJ ~ http://tinyurl.com/h7uhozk - Moderation on Dyxum


Posted By: dCap
Date Posted: 20 July 2006 at 01:14
Hi Bob

I think eBay does not allow links to your own websites (they don't want you promoting your own business, like if you are a shop), but I've seen links to photodo and to Dyxum review pages, and even the Mhohler site.

I don't remember seeing any links to MaxxumEyes though.

-------------
2005 = Dynax 7D and various prime lenses and Maxxum 7D
then I moved to Nikon, then I added some Olympus
30-Nov-2018 = Panasonic G80 + 12-35/2.8 <<< planning to shoot with just this camera/lens in 2019


Posted By: Bob J
Date Posted: 01 December 2006 at 16:09
Has anyone considered offering a Dyxum discount when they sell something on ebay? Often people put up equipment for sale here because they would rather it went to a member of our community, but would it be possible to offer (say) a 10% discount for Dyxum members when selling an item in an auction? A condition could be that they should be registered here before the auction began (people could confirm their eligibility via a PM). Does ebay allow such discounts? I only suggest it because it would seem to benefit Dyxum by bringing in more members, the buyer (because they are getting an edge on the competition) and the seller (because a Dyxum member is more likely to be a known quantity who will be reliable).

There may, of course, be pitfalls I have not spotted. What do you think?

Bob

-------------
RBJ ~ http://tinyurl.com/h7uhozk - Moderation on Dyxum


Posted By: dCap
Date Posted: 01 December 2006 at 21:11
the discount idea? I'm not sure if this is breaking eBay rules?

We can always use the forum to sell something at lower than eBay prices pre-ebaying. That is the best bit, factor in the disoc**t or set a 'forum' price.

For straight profiteering, straight to eBay.

Its the way I've done it mostly. But we have also see 'eBay price' goodies sold in here. Its good to be offered stuff before the eBay goes out to the rest world.

-------------
2005 = Dynax 7D and various prime lenses and Maxxum 7D
then I moved to Nikon, then I added some Olympus
30-Nov-2018 = Panasonic G80 + 12-35/2.8 <<< planning to shoot with just this camera/lens in 2019


Posted By: kimare
Date Posted: 14 December 2006 at 12:44
How long do you list your items?

3days or 7 days?

-------------
A700 M35 2.0 - M85 1.4 - M100 2.8
KM11-18 - KM28-75 - M70-210


Posted By: alphadog
Date Posted: 17 December 2006 at 16:04
Originally posted by kimare kimare wrote:

How long do you list your items?

3days or 7 days?


I have always run 7 day auctions. Since I haven't run any 3 day auction I don't have direct evidence, but I believe you will generally make more in a 7 day auction. I have noticed on my auctions that I might have only say 10 watchers in the first three days but maybe 25 or more by the auction end. Some buyers may look at eBay everyday, but I think many only look every few days - 3 day auctions won't be seen by as many potential bidders.




Posted By: alphadog
Date Posted: 17 December 2006 at 16:31
I thought I'd add a few comments from my experiences with eBay buying and selling. I have been using eBay since back in the days when it was called "AuctionWeb". There were no user names at the time - just email addresses. I have bought and sold many items over the years and I have over 1000 positive feedback mostly as a seller. I have just one negative - due to a crazy and completely unreasonable buyer. I have sold items for anywhere from a few dollars to about $1000, including musical instruments, general antiques, and even my 1994 Saturn.

Here are a few of my opinions:

Don't Use Reserves.
Set the starting bid at the very minimum you would be willing to take for the item. Items that are well listed will generally be seen by many people and will sell for a reasonable price. So many people sell with high reserves that are never met that when potential buyers see there is a reserve on an item they often don't bother to watch the auction. I feel an honest seller should say the minimum he is willing to take for an item. This way a bidder knows whether the seller really wants to sell or if he is just getting an "appraisal". I very rarely bid on an auction where there is a reserve that has not been met. And I am sure that I'm not the only one.

Accept PayPal.
I know some people hate PayPal and think that PayPal fees (for sellers) are excessive. They don't want the 3% or so taken from their auction price, so they do not take PayPal. However, by not taking PayPal they lose potential bidders. Unless you are selling items that are very high priced ($100s of dollars or more) I believe your profit will be greater in auctions that accept PayPal. Again, I know that I am much less likely to bid on an auction that doesn't accept PayPal than one that does. I don't like to deal with checks, money orders, hand-addressing envelopes, and post office drop-offs when I could just quickly pay online. If you make 5-10% more on an auction that accepts PayPal you won't mind paying the 3% fee.

Keep Your Listing Simple.
There is no need for lots of fancy bells and whistles. Take good pictures and give a detailed description. That is all it takes to get good bids. Don't have 1000s of terms and conditions or complicated forms that need to be completed by the buyer.

Work Hard To Establish Good Feedback.
Good feedback is very important as a seller. Treat people with respect, even if they seem unreasonable. In over 1000 transactions on eBay I have only had a few problems that couldn't be worked out to everybody's satisfaction and only one that resulted in a negative. Some would say I am naive, but I believe most people out there are reasonable. Exchange phone numbers if you are having a dispute via email that isn't going away. Sometimes talking to someone helps both people remember that that they are dealing with another human.

Sell Internationally.
It is a little harder to ship items internationally, but if you want to maximize your profits you shouldn't shut out most of the world from bidding. If ease is more important than the bottom line, then feel free to sell only within your own country. I have sold at least 100 items to bidders outside the US and I have never had a single problem (except two items that were lost by the postal system - fortunately not big dollar items).

Anyway, those are just a few thoughts off the top of my head. I may edit/add in the near future.


Posted By: staneC
Date Posted: 08 January 2007 at 08:18
Hi,

Im am selling some old stuff on ebay.uk. and if I go un ebay.de I can't find my item even if I check "Europe".

-------------
Kind regards
Stane
http://www.fotogalerija.fotoribolov.com/fotografija.html - www.fotogalerija.fotoribolov.com/fotografija.html


Posted By: dCap
Date Posted: 09 January 2007 at 23:22
Originally posted by staneC staneC wrote:

Hi,

Im am selling some old stuff on ebay.uk. and if I go un ebay.de I can't find my item even if I check "Europe".


- you need to ensure you have made it available for europe (from memory I think its by selecting the countries in the postal area of the listing forms/pages)
- and you need to wait a few hours too. Often when you list on ebay, then check the 'directory' ... your item won't appear for a few hours.

-------------
2005 = Dynax 7D and various prime lenses and Maxxum 7D
then I moved to Nikon, then I added some Olympus
30-Nov-2018 = Panasonic G80 + 12-35/2.8 <<< planning to shoot with just this camera/lens in 2019


Posted By: CTYankee
Date Posted: 25 January 2007 at 17:01
Looking for any last minute tips ...

Have photos ready (with my ebay userid superimposed - thanks dcap !) to post auctions for 200/4 and VC-7D. With the 200/4, I'm thinking of a high B-I-N offering free shipping within US and discount on international for anyone who uses B-I-N. Now ... if I get nearly the $2000 that the last three 200/4s have, should I require insurance ? I've never really had problems I can think of with US postal service, but I never really trust them, either (and have no idea what happens to packages once they're unloaded in other countries). So I'm thinking of including insurance in my shipping quotes. What happens when a buyer claims that a package never arrived or arrived damaged ? I see some auctions that offer insurance at buyers option, which would imply that the buyer is responsible for shipping problems, but I can't believe that's true; I imagine if the buyer claims an item never arrived, it's a problem for the seller.

I'll require that sellers have a paypal acct and I'll ship only to a verified address. Beyond that, don't want to get into too many restrictions, but just want to protect myself, particularly on the lens.

(The VC-7D will probably be a straight no reserve start at $.99 auction & charge reasonable shipping).

Any advice on these questions & other last minute tips (not already covered here) appreciated !

Thanks,

- Dennis


-------------
http://kingofthebeasts.smugmug.com/gallery/7916530_B3qBq#513527444_ZMQ2t - April Foolishness
CZ16-80 | 28-75D | 28/2 | 85/1.4 | 70-300G | 400G


Posted By: eccles
Date Posted: 19 November 2007 at 19:08
As a buyer, I've just been fleeced of L75. The seller had lots of +ve buyer feedback but the seller feedback wasn't so good. I should have checked properly. One expensive lesson learned!

As a buyer again, I did really well when someone auctioned a Dynax 400SI with 'two Sigma lenses'. Starting bid was L49 and the lightweight Dynaxes don't fetch much. I emailed the seller and found that one of the Sigmas was a 105 Macro. I bid and won for L75 including postage. A single bidder, a dealer popped in near the end and chickened out when my max limit, upped 5 minutes before the end, was enough. The camera was ok, with 35-80 lens and the battery worked. I sold it locally for L40. One Sigma lens was actually for a Nikon. I sold that locally too, for L25. That left me with a mint Sigma 105 macro and very nice padded camera bag for a net cost of L10. Moral? Look for job lots, cherry pick what you want and sell the rest on INDIVIDUALLY. Individual items almost always fetch more.

As a seller, watch what the successful sellers are doing. There's one guy I noticed who consistently gets more for his stuff than others. Turns out he's listing in several groups.

Ebay often have cheap days. Watch out for them.

I've started using Auctiva. It's free and you can include lots of big photos for nothing. Photos sell lenses, especially if you post pictures that the lenses have taken as well. If you use Auctiva or similar then the photos are free so you may as well post them.

Pack the goods well and get them out quickly. If a person pays by cheque and the item isn't too expensive, check out their feedback and if ok, wait for it to arrive obviously, but don't wait for it to clear. They won't risk their feedback for a few dollars/pounds/etc. All you need to do is hold off feedback for a couple of days until the cheque has cleared. They get their goods quickly and you get good feedback.

I usually start at 99p with no reserve and sensible postage. High postage used to work to inflate the price a bit but people are getting wise to it and it will often reduce the total price fetched. This approach fell flat recently, and a Danish guy got my superb 35-70 F4 for L15 including postage to Denmark. But that's life. Mostly it gets extra bidders.


Posted By: Shaocaholica
Date Posted: 19 November 2007 at 19:54
Originally posted by eccles eccles wrote:


As a seller, watch what the successful sellers are doing. There's one guy I noticed who consistently gets more for his stuff than others. Turns out he's listing in several groups.


Can you elaborate on what you mean by groups? I personally don't have conflicting items end at the same time or the same week. Conflicting items being lenses that are very similar/same and accessories.


Posted By: eccles
Date Posted: 20 November 2007 at 00:29
Yes. When I say 'groups' I mean categories.

For instance put lenses in:

Photography > Camera Lenses > For 35mm SLR > To Fit Minolta > Auto Focus Minolta Lenses

Also in: Photography > Camera Lenses > For Digital SLR

This way you catch film and digital buyers.

I agree about conflicting items, but if you use Auctiva you can use it to promote complimentary sales. So if you have a 28-105mm then a buyer might also be interested in a 100-300mm.
Offering reduced postage for both as well will encourage people to bid on both and push the price up.


Posted By: snomed
Date Posted: 22 November 2007 at 18:27
hello,

sorry if this has been mention before but what advice do you give about buying from eu countries on ebay to ship to uk, do i have to pay tax?

thanks for reading :)


Posted By: eccles
Date Posted: 22 November 2007 at 18:42
No duty or tax is payable from EU countries to the UK or any other EU country. It is a free trading bloc and any VAT differences are waived.
Further advice is it's probably easiest to use Paypal as you then deal in your own currency. Be aware though, ebay just quotes currency market conversions, but Paypal's conversion rates are similar to commercial tourist rates with a buy and sell spread. This means you'll end up paying a couple of percent more if you have to convert from one currency to another.


Posted By: snomed
Date Posted: 23 November 2007 at 06:09
cheers mate! now i fear my bank balance!


Posted By: eccles
Date Posted: 23 November 2007 at 10:43
I should add that the duty free rule only applies to items purchased for your own use, hence the mixed results when bringing back car-loads of booze from Calais. :)


Posted By: skyg
Date Posted: 03 May 2008 at 14:58
The most important consideration for both parties, is to know your product. In most lens there are age difference and silent model chganges. For example, Minolta lens has gone through several model upgrades without changing their model number. There is the original, the RS (restyled) and the Digital series. It is rare to see any Minolta with the true lens version stated unless the seller was a pro.

Always ask for a invoice! That is the law. If the seller cannot provide you with an invoice then you are dealing with a crook. This will also create problems if the product has to cross international borders.

Another big problem is shipping charges. It appears that most sellers are either too fat or lazy to go and send s small package out via registered fist class mail. All they know is UPS. This is where one can spot a "honest " seller. Sellers who post fixed shipping rates are up-charging.   If they refuse to ship the way you want to, then why deal with a dummy or idiot.

When purchasing equipment (i.e lens) take into consideration phrase such as "lightly used" or "not used for years" etc, can only mean the lens is in poor working condition.

Usually there are no bargains on good stuff and for my money, I would prefer to buy new. Why spend 10% less for a 10 year old lens when a new one comes with warranty and the latest technology.


Posted By: laguire
Date Posted: 26 May 2008 at 23:01
I am listing some items on ebay for the first time. Am located in the US. Have had a whole bunch of questions from international buyers asking if I will sell internationally -- not sure if it is worth the risk? Is there anything I should look out for? A lot of the users have low feedback scores - how do I make sure I don't get burned? Any particular countries a problem? I have been asked from Canada, Israel, France, and czech republic so far. Thanks for any thoughts.


Posted By: cjc181166
Date Posted: 26 May 2008 at 23:09
My recommendations are:

More than 10 positive feedbacks
State which countries you will ship too, i.e. EU, Canada, US and Australia. Avoid Africa, lots of scammers.
Only do business via PayPal (Yes I know that stinks, but you are protected this way)
If you don't feel comfortable with the buyer, don't sell to them.


Posted By: laguire
Date Posted: 27 May 2008 at 04:29
Thanks for the suggestions.


Posted By: Bass
Date Posted: 27 May 2008 at 18:22
I agree with Craig. EU, Canada, US & Australia are all suitable. I would also avoid Africa - especially Nigeria. All the countries you mention would be ok.

Selling Internationaly will greatly increase your chance of getting a higher sale price. Germans, Scandinavians and Italians tend (In my experience) to bid higher than other countries, so well worth doing. With the $ relatively weak at the moment, this will help you as Europeans can get more for their money at the moment. In fact, Ebay EU are marketing the weak $ as an opportunity to pick up bargains from overseas. I would choose which countries you want to post to and make it clear in your listing.

I would not be so reluctant to deal with new ebay buyers with low feedback. They can often get 'carried away' and bid more than experienced ebayers. In fact, I would encourage it! Like Craig said, Paypal will offer you some protection.

I would post everything by worldwide trackable mail (from dispatch to delivery) and adequate insurance. This may cost the buyer a little more but it is good protection for both of you.

Any lenses coming into the EU from the US will be subject to VAT and import duty, so I would clearly mark on your listing that you cannot be accountable for delays or additional charges. You will probably be asked to mark the value down on the customs declaration by some members...it is up to you but you can't of course then insure it for a different value..

Good luck!

-------------
MB


Posted By: wallyb
Date Posted: 26 August 2008 at 05:52
laguire, don't be afraid of Malaysia and surrounding countries. There is a booming photography culture there and you will probably get lots of bidders from that area.


Posted By: wetapunga
Date Posted: 26 August 2008 at 08:53
As an aside Finland, Denmark and New Zealand regularly top the list of 'least corrupt' countries on the planet. Perversely, I've had Ebay sales fall through as I'm not in Australia (yes, it's more corrupt than boring NZ).

I wonder about some US sellers who won't even consider selling stuff to Canadians.

Actually, I agree that Malayisa (and Singapore) are generally pretty good, plus the countries listed in the OP dont' send up any red flags.

Non-Ebay options include KEH and Dyxum fwiw...



-------------
a7R, a77ii, QX100 | Minolta 17-35mm G, 20mm, 35-105mm O, 50mm M, 70-210 beercan, 85mm G, 100mm M, 300mm G | Sony 16-50mm, CZ16-80mm, 70-200mm G, 135mm f2.8 STF | Tokina 11-16mm


Posted By: denikin
Date Posted: 10 December 2008 at 06:58
Among all EU countries, watch out for Italy. Nothing is wrong with the Italian buyers. They are perfectly normal, but the Italian customs and postal service seem to have a lot of problems.

So far, I have shipped three times to Italy in the last six years. But, NONE of them was delivered normally. In fact, two of them were missing and another took three months to be delivered. All of them were shipped via USPS.

For example, Japanese postal service is "officially" warning against sending anything to Italy in their EMS webpage.

I believe shipping through UPS, Fedex, and DHL might be ok, though.


Posted By: daveandviv
Date Posted: 04 February 2009 at 04:52
I've found that I make more money when I list my lenses with a buy-it-now price instead of opening it up to bidding; I use the 30-day buy-it-now option and usually sell my lenses for a little more than previous sellers with auctions (perhaps because some people would rather pay a little extra to not bother with last minute/second bidding).

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A55 | 17-35G | 100-400APO | HVL-F58AM


Posted By: Maggy
Date Posted: 06 June 2009 at 20:22
Strange that this thread is so quiet lately.
I have to agree with some other writers in this thread that some US sellers are way too concerned about foreign buyers. In most cases that I asked them permission to place my bid from the Netherlands they didn't even send me an answer. Anyhow it is still a good idea to ask permission to bid if your country is not in the shipping options list. Lots of sellers simply forget that they could benefit from international bids.

I never place bids manually, I always use
http://www.auctionsniper.com/?how=sarcan - Auction Sniper
to place last minute bids. I only loose if someone really outbids me. Use realistic maximum bids and be surprised of the bargains you win, if you use low maximum bids it's quite likely that even another low maximum proxy bid placed much earlier outbids you.


Posted By: dca1213
Date Posted: 09 November 2009 at 00:50
I dabble in ebay sales and purchases. I usually buy packages that I break up and resell, keeping what I wanted from the package. I also buy from Craigslist in the US and again keep what I want and sell the remainder on ebay. Recently I found a Minolta 5000 on Craigslist that included a 50mm 1.7 and a Beercan for $25 USD! Kept the Beercan and sold the 50mm for $100 USD on ebay.

I only sell to US buyers because of the fact that to sell international from the USA requires that I take the package to the Post Office and fill out a bunch of forms, it becomes time consuming compared to domestic shipping which I can just hand it to the postman, I can appreciate that it is perhaps unfair for overseas bidders but at the same time I don't want to rape people by charging huge rates for overseas shipping. I do however only list on ebay.com and my listings do not allow overseas buyers to bid. When I recieve a message from an overseas buyer I always respond and explain that I do not ship overseas.

-------------
Dennis


Posted By: santiclaws
Date Posted: 23 January 2010 at 20:09
Originally posted by dca1213 dca1213 wrote:

I dabble in ebay sales and purchases. I usually buy packages that I break up and resell, keeping what I wanted from the package. I also buy from Craigslist in the US and again keep what I want and sell the remainder on ebay. Recently I found a Minolta 5000 on Craigslist that included a 50mm 1.7 and a Beercan for $25 USD! Kept the Beercan and sold the 50mm for $100 USD on ebay.

I only sell to US buyers because of the fact that to sell international from the USA requires that I take the package to the Post Office and fill out a bunch of forms, it becomes time consuming compared to domestic shipping which I can just hand it to the postman, I can appreciate that it is perhaps unfair for overseas bidders but at the same time I don't want to rape people by charging huge rates for overseas shipping. I do however only list on ebay.com and my listings do not allow overseas buyers to bid. When I recieve a message from an overseas buyer I always respond and explain that I do not ship overseas.


You can print the customs forms online with Paypal and the post office will do free pick up. Just FYI.


Posted By: al
Date Posted: 23 January 2010 at 23:19
Originally posted by santiclaws santiclaws wrote:

You can print the customs forms online with Paypal and the post office will do free pick up. Just FYI.


And Paypal knows what form you need and pre-fills the address. You just need to enter the item description and weight, print a few pages, and get those plastic form holders from the post office. I used to not send international, now I find it's not much of a big deal once I understood what forms are needed and how they are attached to the box.


Posted By: gouldina
Date Posted: 04 August 2010 at 18:48
Originally posted by Maggy Maggy wrote:



I never place bids manually, I always use
http://www.auctionsniper.com/?how=sarcan - Auction Sniper
to place last minute bids. I only loose if someone really outbids me.


Yeah. I can't believe there's been no other mention of sniping. I know sellers don't like it but it's great for the bidder. Advantages: you're literally invisible until the last few seconds, it'll bid late whenever the auction finishes in your time zone, it encourages discipline in that you set the highest bid you'd be happy to pay and then walk away. I use a free tool called JBidWatcher (I'm nothing to do with this project btw and it's free anyway) rather than an auction site because it's more flexible. The only drawback is that you have to run it on a PC that's on when the bid finishes. I use my work PC which is always on for that reason.


Posted By: romke
Date Posted: 04 August 2010 at 19:59
thanks for mentioning Auction Sniper and JBidWatcher. i have been outbid for only a few euro's a couple of times just because i handed in my bid about a minute before closing time and this looks like it could avoid that in some cases.

will give it a try.



Posted By: lumajr
Date Posted: 07 August 2010 at 09:35
I also used auctionsniper, there are few bids for free, and you get also three free bids for every friend you get to join.

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lumajr


Posted By: waleskeg
Date Posted: 07 August 2010 at 12:18
Been using auctionsniper successfully for a few years now, don't leave home without it.

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http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenwales - http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenwales


Posted By: digitalking
Date Posted: 21 October 2010 at 10:33
Iphone ebay app is user friendly too but it does not look very appealing.


Posted By: Pirate
Date Posted: 22 November 2010 at 23:33
Ahoy!

If I offer lenses on evilBay, they're generally listed with a BIN and Make Offer rather than standard auction. If someone wants anything bad enough they'll cough up.

I recently bought a bunch of Nikon gear off eBay and TalkPhotography and re-sold it as a package on eBay. After divvies to eBay/PayPal I made £30.00 and a spare 2Gb 133x Lexar CF card. Worthless I hear you say.

I've just sold the CF card for £10.00 + £1.50 postage on eBay. How daft is that when for nearly the same money you can buy an 8Gb Transcend 133x CF card off Amazon, 7dayShop or wherever with free postage?

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http://www.fluidr.com/photos/kopczewski - Fluidr http://www.airplane-pictures.net/photographer.php?p=4091 - Airplane-Pictures http://pirate77.redbubble.com/ - RedBubble


Posted By: nmg+
Date Posted: 25 February 2011 at 05:24
What about selling tips? I wasn't really sure where to post my question...but would you sell to someone who has 0 feedback and signed up that day? They used the BIN option...thoughts? I'm new to this ebay thing.


Posted By: pdeley
Date Posted: 25 February 2011 at 06:33
If you didn't specify in the listing that you won't sell to buyers with 0 feedback then that means you should go through with the sale. Cover the bases, make sure you send the item(s) to a confirmed address using a shipping method that requires shipping, and be prepared to help your buyer figure out how the process works. Everyone on feebay started out with 0 feedback so as long as no red flags pop up (eg request to ship to a different address from the buyer's paypal address) then the best customer service approach is to assume that everything will work out fine while making sure you keep a properly documented paper trail.

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a450, a500, a65, a7, 700si & other 35 mm bodies, Sig 15-30, sam 30 2.8 macro, Pentax 40 2.8 pan, Sig 70 f2.8 macro, Vivi 90 f2.8 macro, Mino 100-400 apo, 300 f4, 500 f8, 600 f4


Posted By: nmg+
Date Posted: 28 February 2011 at 00:52
Thanks for the reply pdeley.

So turns out, that the original buyer for my A300 + 50mm was the typical 'hope you send me the item' before I pay scam. Not too sure why anybody would send something before being paid....

I sold a VG to someone with 315 feedback 100%. I have received an email from paypal and I have also checked my paypal account itself. It says payment is completed but under hold in case of a reversal. Is this legit? Or do I wait until the money is released?

Sorry this is my first time selling electronics online and after the first scam attempt I'm a little cautious.

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A900 , Sigma 15mm fisheye, Sony 50mm F1.4, Sony Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8, Sony 70-200mm G F2.8


Posted By: nmg+
Date Posted: 28 February 2011 at 02:23
bump

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A900 , Sigma 15mm fisheye, Sony 50mm F1.4, Sony Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8, Sony 70-200mm G F2.8


Posted By: kathyk
Date Posted: 28 February 2011 at 02:35
I am not familiar with that warning from PayPal. On the orders detail page, does it say "ok to ship" or something like that? If so, they are probably just holding the funds until buyer has product, but if not, then I would contact paypal and tell them you are not sure how to proceed.

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-Kathy


Posted By: nmg+
Date Posted: 28 February 2011 at 02:40
Yes it does say ok to ship. But the funds are being held until I guess they have the product...is this normal? I guess this can't be faked.

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A900 , Sigma 15mm fisheye, Sony 50mm F1.4, Sony Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8, Sony 70-200mm G F2.8


Posted By: ecsh
Date Posted: 28 February 2011 at 02:50
That is correct. The person did the paypal payment, and its with paypal, but you will not get the funds until, 1. the person leaves feedback ,and or the tracking shows the person got the item. It is very important to send the item with tracking and go to your paypal account and when you view his transaction in the detail section, it will give you the option to attach tracking info to this transaction. Put the tracking number, and the way it was shipped in the tabs given, for proof if you need it in the future. Once you verify he has the item, if he has not left feedback, call paypal and they will release the funds to you.

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A99,CZ 85 1.4, Sigma 70mm macro, Tamron 70-300,Minolta 20 2.8,85 2.8,Sigma 35mm 1.4, Sigma 70-200 OS, Tamron 24-70 2,8 + Lusting more


Posted By: Cav
Date Posted: 28 February 2011 at 03:21
The funds hold happened to me as well when I started selling camera items on ebay. After the 5th or so camera item I sold, this no longer happened. I was told it was in place until you establish yourself as a legit seller of electronic merchandise. The only issue I had was with buyers not leaving feedback causing me to have to contact paypal to get my funds more than once.


Posted By: Pirate
Date Posted: 16 August 2011 at 10:52
Best and cheapest selling method. List as BIN and Make An Offer. Put your BIN price in and under the Make An Offer your lowest price in the top box. In the bottom box 'Reject All Offers Under . . . .' leave this blank. Any offers UNDER you lowest acceptable price will be forwarded to you and you can then send a note and a counter-offer back to the bidder. Usually you can negotiate a price, amend it and get the interested party to re-submit their bid at the revised BIN or minimum price and bingo, you get the sale.

In the UK, the cost is 40p, and you get to put in whatever price you like, unlike a single sale price where you'll be charged more for listing at the same price.

Smart or what? Also, for nil listing auction fees, list at 0.99p.

Lastly, eBay is listed on TopcashBack, so when buying (free to sign up for an account), click through TCB and then buy off eBay. You'll be surprised how much in rebates you'll amass over time, especially if you buy high value items.

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http://www.fluidr.com/photos/kopczewski - Fluidr http://www.airplane-pictures.net/photographer.php?p=4091 - Airplane-Pictures http://pirate77.redbubble.com/ - RedBubble


Posted By: tefoonez
Date Posted: 17 August 2011 at 07:31
Originally posted by Cav Cav wrote:

The funds hold happened to me as well when I started selling camera items on ebay. After the 5th or so camera item I sold, this no longer happened. I was told it was in place until you establish yourself as a legit seller of electronic merchandise. The only issue I had was with buyers not leaving feedback causing me to have to contact paypal to get my funds more than once.


That sounds odd to me, I am not sure how/why PayPal would decide you might not be a worthy seller. I sold a road bike recently for L400 and despite having 300+ positive feedback PayPal still said the payment was under review. More likely a random fraud check.

Then again it could be operated differently in other countries.

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A77II, Sony 70-400G II, Tamron 28-75, Sigma 18-35, Zeiss 135 1.8


Posted By: Tubal
Date Posted: 17 August 2011 at 07:58
Originally posted by tefoonez tefoonez wrote:

Originally posted by Cav Cav wrote:

The funds hold happened to me as well when I started selling camera items on ebay. After the 5th or so camera item I sold, this no longer happened. I was told it was in place until you establish yourself as a legit seller of electronic merchandise. The only issue I had was with buyers not leaving feedback causing me to have to contact paypal to get my funds more than once.


That sounds odd to me, I am not sure how/why PayPal would decide you might not be a worthy seller. I sold a road bike recently for L400 and despite having 300+ positive feedback PayPal still said the payment was under review. More likely a random fraud check.

Then again it could be operated differently in other countries.


I think it's random. I have nearly 2700 positive feedbacks mostly from selling, 99.8% positive, top rated seller, power seller.

A couple months ago I got a notice from paypal that said i was on probation and all of my received funds would be subject to a 21 day hold for security purposes.

Needless to say I quit selling. No reason for them to collect interest off my money.

After 30 days, they did another review and I'm no longer subject to the hold.

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a100|a700 x2|a77|Sony 18-200mm|Min 50mm f1.7|Sony 28mm f2.8|Sony 500mm f8|Sony 70-200mm|CZ 24-70mm|Sony 70-400mm|Viv 7mm|CZ 85mm|Sony 16-50mm


Posted By: EarthQuake
Date Posted: 08 October 2011 at 21:08
nmg+: The money hold thing happens to all new sellers, its not random and its not just you. Its just basic ebay/paypal policy. For new sellers, you have to wait 30 days or for your buyer to leave positive feedback before you get your money.

This is a safety measure to prevent people from creating new accounts, selling fake goods and making off with the cash.

Tubal: That sounds strange indeed, did you have any negative feedback that would have prompted such action?


Posted By: EarthQuake
Date Posted: 08 October 2011 at 21:17
Originally posted by romke romke wrote:

thanks for mentioning Auction Sniper and JBidWatcher. i have been outbid for only a few euro's a couple of times just because i handed in my bid about a minute before closing time and this looks like it could avoid that in some cases.

will give it a try.


One thing to remember, bid sniping will never keep you from losing the auction by one dollar. A lot of people get this idea that if only they had sniped it they wouldn't have lost, or if they would have noticed and bid again they could have won. Truth be told, the other Bidder's max bid could have been $100 higher than yours. You just never know.

You'll lose by a dollar, or whatever the bid increment simply because you were the 2nd highest bidder, not because the other buyer was willing to spend $1 more. So always simply bid what you're really willing to pay for an item, and just be patient, if you lose by a dollar, rinse+repeat.

Not only that, but most other bidders are sniping too, so its really just a matter of who bids highest. Sniping for me is mostly a matter of; I would probably forget or not be home when the auction ends.

Auction sniper does have a nice new feature that will rebid if you're under the bid increment, up to a certain amount of bids, which is really nice. Simply increasing your max bid price a little bit has the same effect though.


Posted By: dclements
Date Posted: 17 March 2012 at 00:19
EBAY ALERT

Sellers are now being warned that, come May, ebay will change its rules regarding return policy and that they "may" have to alter their policy.

As it is, to get that silly "Top Rated Seller" label, your return policy must be more generous than mine (3 days).

There may well be a rush to dump junk before May - be especially careful of sellers who have been inactive for a long period suddenly listing a bunch of stuff "No Returns" while they still can



Posted By: dclements
Date Posted: 23 March 2012 at 08:39
In case anyone is still reading this:

If you are as annoyed as I by the use of "Beercan" to sell a lens that is not a beercan:

When bored, I go to Lenses section and search (title only) for "beercan" (record: Nikon; most clueless: Maxxum 28-135).
Bring up the item and find the "Report Item" link (directly below the data box under the seller's name)
Mis-use of "Beercan" falls under:
Listing Practices
Search and Browse Manipulation
Keyword Spamming

There were 67 hits on the word "beercan" 37 of them were actual beercans or (god help me, I'm letting it pass) "mini beercans" as applied to first gen f4 35-70.

[/In case anybody's still reading]


Posted By: skyg
Date Posted: 08 November 2012 at 02:48
On this pyapal business,if you want a quick response, your account has to be properly set up.

My paypal account is directly linked to my checking account. So payments are basically in the form of cash. However,if you have a problem with the goods you purchased, paypal can easily take over a month to resolve.   And you stuck waiting and at the mercy of the people at paypal and if they believe the stories the seller is pitching them

As an alternative, I also use paypal linked to my credit card, especially when the amount is large. That way, the first wiff of a problem, and a deafly response from the seller, I call the credit card company to reverse the charge. Then its between the credit card company (or paypal) and the seller, your money is frozen, but still under your control- a very good place to be in.


Posted By: Blame
Date Posted: 19 December 2013 at 13:39
Good advice all.

As a seller I believe in careful description (specific statements on lens coatings, snappy aperture, cosmetic condition ect), careful choice of end time (weekdays 7-9pm), and international postage offered (with a slight markup to cover the occasional return risk).

Occasionally I get it wrong and have to offer a partial refund, full refund on return or in the worst case just full refund.

However there is also the customer trying it on. I got a sale halfway across the world for 3 lenses. I gave a postage discount. The customer got them and must have spent hours looking for the tiniest defect (like specs of dust or stuff already described in the ad). He demanded a partial refund of about 2/3 or I should give him a full refund + his postage (my charge less the discount) BEFORE he returned the lenses. Lol. That would have left me even worse off, even if the lenses actually came back. Clever trick huh? I offered him his money back on return and no return postage and pointed him to the Ebay rules. Not a penny discount. He was really disgruntled to discover he had wasted all that time for no profit and did no good to my feedback.

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A900, Min 24-105, 35-105, Samyang 14/2.8, 35/1.4, Sig 70/2.8 Macro, ISCO Ultra 125/2, Tam 180/3.5 Macro, Sig 400/5.6 TeleMacro


Posted By: Mortal
Date Posted: 25 January 2014 at 09:44
Sigma 28-70 f2.8 old version. For 35Euro

Can somebody tell me how to clean that sticky sigma colour on lens



Sorry please delete post. i've put it on wrong place i was looking for grat deal post

And thank you for quick answer regarding cleaning

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A77 & Bcans - 28, 50, 28-85, 35-70, 28-135, 35-105, 100-200, 70-210, 70-300



Posted By: kerrath
Date Posted: 25 January 2014 at 10:13
Originally posted by Mortal Mortal wrote:

Sigma 28-70 f2.8 old version. For 35Euro

Can somebody tell me how to clean that sticky sigma colour on lens

Assuming you mean the paint, not the yellowish cast to sigma lenses...
Rubbing alcohol and a piece of cloth works somewhat. To really get it all off, you can use acetone/nail polish remover. But then you lose the markings printed on the lens. My favorite way is to get a can of matte clearcoat, mask off the important parts of the lens and paint over the sticky paint. I've done this on 3 lenses now, and after keeping one for a year, it's given me no problems.

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http://cpburrows.com - CPBurrows.com


Posted By: CuriousOne
Date Posted: 29 June 2014 at 20:35
Hello,

I have a question regarding the ebay purchases, if you don't mind.

Recently I won an ebay auction for "maxxum 7000 body with 100mm zoom lens". As items often get screwed during postage, I generally ask seller to send me the photos of actual item before I pay and they ship. So did this seller, but on pictures I can clearly see that lens is 35-70/4, not 100mm as advertised. I know that 35-70/4 is a great lens and so on, but I already have it, so see no reason to get another one.

What should I do?

pay the seller and then file the claim "wrong item received", with long sending items back, etc etc. Or, not to pay at all and inform ebay about wrongly listed item?


Posted By: stiuskr
Date Posted: 29 June 2014 at 20:43
The description of a 100mm zoom lens should have prompted a question before the bid. But it is wrongly listed so that would be the route to take IMO.

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Rob Suits Jr.
a99M2 a99 a77 a700 KM7D|Min24/2.8 Min35/2 So50/1.4 So50/2.8 Min85/1.4G Tam90/2.8 Tam180/3.5|Tam17-50 CZ24-70G2 KM28-75D So70-200G1 So70-300G So70-400G1| SonyF60 AD200R2


Posted By: CuriousOne
Date Posted: 29 June 2014 at 21:02
So I pay and then open dispute, or I should not pay at all?


Posted By: 5thElefant
Date Posted: 29 June 2014 at 21:24
Don't pay, tell the seller why.

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Simon α900|A7|RX10|DXO


Posted By: sybersitizen
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 00:34
Look for an option to cancel the sale and follow the instructions. If the seller acknowledges that he made the error in the listing, you and he can both agree to completely cancel the sale. That will resolve things quickly and nobody gets penalized.

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http://thesybersite.com -


Posted By: CuriousOne
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 05:49
Hahah, situation is getting interesting.

While we were discussing the issue here, he might be browsing this forum, so item was already sent to me (I haven't complained to him), so if I don't pay, he'll open "item not paid" case :D


Posted By: sybersitizen
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 06:32
Originally posted by CuriousOne CuriousOne wrote:

Hahah, situation is getting interesting.

While we were discussing the issue here, he might be browsing this forum, so item was already sent to me (I haven't complained to him), so if I don't pay, he'll open "item not paid" case :D

Do I understand that you have not paid yet, but he says he already sent the item? If so, that is unheard-of and is a strong signal of something fishy happening. How is his feedback?

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http://thesybersite.com -


Posted By: CuriousOne
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 07:12
Yes, I haven't paid, and he already sent the item, tracking code is provided and when checked online it says: |The shipment information has been received by US Postal Service.

He has 100% positive feedback, more than 600 items sold.


Posted By: sybersitizen
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 07:30
Originally posted by CuriousOne CuriousOne wrote:

Yes, I haven't paid, and he already sent the item, tracking code is provided and when checked online it says: |The shipment information has been received by US Postal Service.

Very, very strange for someone to ship before payment is confirmed. BTW, that status message doesn't mean the USPS has actually received a package yet.

He has 100% positive feedback, more than 600 items sold.

Then I don't understand this weird situation... but if you pay for an item and do not receive what was described, you can later open a case with eBay, and you will almost certainly win and get your money back.

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http://thesybersite.com -


Posted By: CuriousOne
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 09:26
Yes, but I also will have to send goods back, right?


Posted By: thornburg
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 14:39
Originally posted by CuriousOne CuriousOne wrote:

Yes, but I also will have to send goods back, right?


Probably.

But on a "not as described" case, if you fight for it, they'll pay the return shipping. It might take a while though.

I had a situation once where I bought a Fuji S2 Pro (known to have a high sensor failure rate) that was sold as working, but arrived with the failed sensor. I wanted to keep the lens that came with it and get a partial refund, but the seller insisted I return the whole thing, and then fought paying the return shipping.

The case took so long that I ended up trading the lens for a Nikon D100 (I needed a Nikon body, that's why I bought the thing in the first place), and a few days later eBay found in my favor, but I was still going to have to return it (the seller would have paid the return shipping), so I ended up closing the case and leaving negative feedback. I sold the broken S2 (clearly marked as broken), and I think I got $25 for it. It's one of the few times I've lost money on an eBay transaction. If I had been more patient, I wouldn't have. But it was also a big hassle.

I think they resolve cases faster now. I recently had another escalated case, and it went much faster, although the total dollar amount was much lower.

Oh, and make sure you pay by PayPal, so that you're covered by buyer protection.

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Sony a3000, a6000, a57, a99 - Sony E 16-50, 28/2 | Vivitar 13, 85 | Minolta 24, 28-105, 35-105, 50/1.7, 75-300 | Tokina 28-70/2.6-2.8 | Sigma 70/2.8 Macro | Tamron 70-200/2.8 | Celestron 1000/11


Posted By: CuriousOne
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 20:22
Situation is getting even strange.

I've mailed him saying that his behavour is not ethical and tricky. He said that he's trading on ebay for years, had no negative feedback ever and sure, he was wrong with listing, but to correct that error, he included another lens in package which I'll like quite much. Furthermore, he stated that he's so confident in himself, that I can pay him after the item arrives!

According to my estimations, the item will arrive here next wedensday. I'm going to film all unboxing procedure, stay tuned :)


Posted By: braisim
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 20:35
Good evening,

I have a different question. I recently won an auction for a new A77 plus 18-135 kit from a UK seller. The item arrived indeed sealed as per the listing complete with European guarantee card. My only concern is with the guarantee: all I have for a receipt/invoice is the paypal packing slip and the ebay/paypal transaction details. DO you think this will be enough for warranty purposes?

Thanks.

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rx100 III | α7 III http://tinyurl.com/lrsjxsr - flickr


Posted By: thornburg
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 20:46
Originally posted by CuriousOne CuriousOne wrote:

Situation is getting even strange.

I've mailed him saying that his behavour is not ethical and tricky. He said that he's trading on ebay for years, had no negative feedback ever and sure, he was wrong with listing, but to correct that error, he included another lens in package which I'll like quite much. Furthermore, he stated that he's so confident in himself, that I can pay him after the item arrives!

According to my estimations, the item will arrive here next wedensday. I'm going to film all unboxing procedure, stay tuned :)


Honestly, it's very unlikely that someone with 100% feedback and a score of over 600 is trying to screw you.

If you're not happy, I'm sure you'll be able to negotiate a deal for either partial refund (and keep the item(s)) or a full refund and return.

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Sony a3000, a6000, a57, a99 - Sony E 16-50, 28/2 | Vivitar 13, 85 | Minolta 24, 28-105, 35-105, 50/1.7, 75-300 | Tokina 28-70/2.6-2.8 | Sigma 70/2.8 Macro | Tamron 70-200/2.8 | Celestron 1000/11


Posted By: stiuskr
Date Posted: 30 June 2014 at 23:44
Originally posted by braisim braisim wrote:

...all I have for a receipt/invoice is the paypal packing slip and the ebay/paypal transaction details. DO you think this will be enough for warranty purposes?

Thanks.


It should be if you register it with Sony.

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Rob Suits Jr.
a99M2 a99 a77 a700 KM7D|Min24/2.8 Min35/2 So50/1.4 So50/2.8 Min85/1.4G Tam90/2.8 Tam180/3.5|Tam17-50 CZ24-70G2 KM28-75D So70-200G1 So70-300G So70-400G1| SonyF60 AD200R2


Posted By: neilt3
Date Posted: 01 July 2014 at 00:11
Originally posted by thornburg thornburg wrote:

Originally posted by CuriousOne CuriousOne wrote:

Situation is getting even strange.

I've mailed him saying that his behavour is not ethical and tricky. He said that he's trading on ebay for years, had no negative feedback ever and sure, he was wrong with listing, but to correct that error, he included another lens in package which I'll like quite much. Furthermore, he stated that he's so confident in himself, that I can pay him after the item arrives!

According to my estimations, the item will arrive here next wedensday. I'm going to film all unboxing procedure, stay tuned :)


Honestly, it's very unlikely that someone with 100% feedback and a score of over 600 is trying to screw you.

If you're not happy, I'm sure you'll be able to negotiate a deal for either partial refund (and keep the item(s)) or a full refund and return.


Add to that the fact that you haven't paid him yet , and he say's he has sent an extra item with it , and your only to pay AFTER you get it and are happy .
He would seem to be an honest trader with integrity , if your not happy with what you receive , organise a return or renegotiate for the lens that you do want.



-------------
see my photostream on flickr;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/sets/ - http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
C & C welcome.


Posted By: CuriousOne
Date Posted: 03 July 2014 at 06:19
So as far as tracking was updated with real shipping info (item dispateched to sort facility, etc.) I've sent the money. I'm not beggar or charity asker in any ways.


Posted By: Miranda F
Date Posted: 05 June 2015 at 12:42
A minor point, but if you use paypal you cannot rely on section 75 credit-card protection against seller misconduct because paypal counts as an indirect transaction. More info on: http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/credit-cards/PayPal-Section75/ - Martin's money website .


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Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .



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