An Opteka 85mm F1.4 Review
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Forum Name: A-mount lenses
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URL: https://www.dyxum.com/dforum/forum_posts.asp?TID=56960
Printed Date: 21 January 2025 at 13:10
Topic: An Opteka 85mm F1.4 Review
Posted By: albnok
Subject: An Opteka 85mm F1.4 Review
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 03:58
I have always, always fancied the 85mm/90mm focal length on full-frame; whenever I met a Tamron 90mm F2.8 Macro I'd pick it up and take portraits with it because of the very comfortable range.
And so, it is of no surprise that I would end up getting myself a Christmas/birthday present - the Opteka 85mm F1.4! This is most commonly known as the Samyang 85mm F1.4 - of course, it comes repackaged as a Rokinon, Bower, Polar, Vivitar, etc. However the basic specifications still hold - it is manual focus only, does not come with a focus confirm chip, and has an aperture ring. Interestingly, the aperture jumps from F1.4 to F2.0 then clicks in half-stops until F16, where it jumps to F22. 
It also only focuses to 1 meter close, which can be quite far for some people. Fortunately I am not feeling it all that often since I am used to standing further away with the Sony Carl Zeiss 135mm F1.8 (which, despite its closer 72cm minimum focus distance, will need you to stand further away due to intense magnification of the viewfinder!) The rear end of the lens protrudes a fair bit - I am not sure if a focus confirm chip could fit in there all that easily without it being pushed out each time you focus to infinity. 
The Opteka isn't that big, when flanked by the similiarly-sized Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D). The Zeiss to the right is the big one. 
However, when the Opteka's hood is on, it can try to pretend to be the same size as the Zeiss... 
From the top, there is a decent amount of recessing - I really don't understand why. They could've made this lens a lot shorter and its filters would vignette less. Amazingly, it is an internal focusing design - the Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA and Minolta 85mm F1.4G are external focusing designs. Of course they have the far more convenient minimum focus distances of 85cm! The current Nikkor F1.8/F1.4 and Canon 85mm F1.8/F1.2 lenses are all internal focusing. The downside of this is that the view widens as you focus closer. Also, when looking at the lens from in front while focusing, I'm not sure why they didn't allow the focus group to travel further and thus, focus closer. 
Here's the Opteka on the Minolta Dynax 7, and the Zeiss 135mm F1.8 on the Sony Alpha 900. 
Somehow, the Minolta Dynax 7 look matches the Opteka more. 
Though, the Sony Alpha 900 looks porportionate. The Alpha 900, like the Alpha 200 onwards, unfortunately does not have the Shutter Release Without Lens option in the menu - so you can't use this lens in Aperture Priority anymore! You have to go to Manual Exposure, unless your lens has a chip. It also does not do focus confirm without the chip. |
Replies:
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 04:02
And now, for some portraits!
85mm F1.4. 
The first picture I took with this portrait lens, was of course, a portrait. You can see sweat! It was a hot day. Note that initially, Auto WB tended to give a purple cast - I set it to Daylight WB and all was okay. 
In office lighting, indoors, it is no slouch - I love how it picks up reflected ambient colors! This is a quality I love in great lenses. 
I took it to the streets, where ISO1600 would give me 1/40s. Which would be a decent shutter speed, given the weight of the A900 helping stabilize it. Yes, SteadyShot does not work here, unless the lens has a chip which tells the body that the lens is at 85mm, and so it can drive the SteadyShot mechanism to compensate accordingly. However in practice, 1/40s was still alright! 
Only downside being at F1.4 is the shallow depth of field, making it difficult to pick a subject when street shooting. 
On the LRT. I love how contrasty this lens is wide open, compared to my Minolta 50mm F1.4 Original! In hindsight only my Minolta and Sigma 17-35mm F2.8-4 EX are weak in contrast - the other lenses I have like the Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) and Minolta 70-210mm F4 beercan</a> are contrasty wide open. We now cut to a comparison of contrast. I used the HVL-F56AM flash set at 1/16th power 85mm, and set the A900 at 1/200s ISO200, and turned off all the lights, for this: 
The Zeiss was set at F2.0 because the F56AM power cannot be set in 1/3rd steps. 
The Opteka was set at F1.4, and the F56AM was dialled down to 1/32th power to equalize. I also cropped a similiar region. 
The Minolta was set at F1.4, with the F56AM still at 1/32th power. While it did seem to transmit a bit more, it was quite gauzy. The Sigma 50mm F1.4 EX DG HSM would handle this situation like the above two lenses, with loads of contrast, but that's a story for another day... 
I attempted to make a Minolta Dynax 7-STF mode simulation and this is what I got. The lens bodes well for fake STF attempts! |
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 04:05
Manual focusing is not easy - you need to learn how to do it. However once mastered you can catch focus pretty quick! 
100% crop. Note that I was using the Sony FDA-FM1AM (A900 Type-M manual focusing screen) to help see depth of field accurately at F1.4. This lens is best used with a Sony Alpha 500/550 that has MF Check Live View, or an Alpha 850/900 fitted with the Type-M screen. But hey, how about some action? I picked up the lens and returned to shoot a rock concert! 
Really, it's not that hard! F1.4. 
I focused while they were walking! Again, nothing you can't achieve with a bit of practice. It also helps that I had a few M42 lenses for my A700 before, to practice... 
Crazy rain. Yes, the lens got subjected to some inclement weather. 1/640s ISO6400. 
The rain killed the generators, leaving the VIP tent in darkness! 1/20s ISO1600. 
Woodstock baby! 1/20s ISO6400. I focused to 1 meter, then walked closer until they were in focus. 
1/25s ISO1600. I pulled tones out of overexposed red faces to get this. So the question everybody asks is this - is it worth it? Yes, definitely! It is a stark fraction of the price of an auto-focusing 85mm F1.4! It is great optically, with a decent amount of contrast. (I just have not compared it to the Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA - something tells me that if I do, I will be haunted by it...) |
Posted By: tkteo
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 04:34
| How much did this lens cost you? Is it sold locally (in your part of Malaysia, I mean)? |
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 04:43
| tkteo: I know someone who brings in lenses from the US. It costed me RM1200. Locally in shops around Kuala Lumpur you can only find the Canon and Nikon Samyang variants. |
Posted By: LuisLopes320
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 09:55
|
Great review =) With direct comparison with Z135 =) and Min50f1.4 that was perfect. I also like that you can accheive focus quite easily ;) You can find it on ebay on different versions, most know is Samyang, but just enter 85mm and search for 1.4 lens on aperture you'll find all results, and they ship it everywhere. It's about 320dollars, or about 220pounds ;)
Love it, i did want to get it, now i'm sure of it =) Many Many thanks =) ------------- LLPhotos Photography is a representation of your world, in your own eyes. llphotos.zenfolio.com |
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 09:58
|
Also, there might be a Samyang 35mm F1.4:
http://www.lenstip.com/index.php?art=122 - http://www.lenstip.com/index.php?art=122 I would buy that no questions asked! Knowing the obscene quality of the Samyang 85mm F1.4 you can bet the 35mm is going to be a winner. Since it is a full-frame wide-angle it should have a better MFD than the Sigma 30mm F1.4's mediocre 40cm. (The Sigma looks nice on FF despite the vignetting!) I can already see it - 35mm and 85mm F1.4, two primes and that is all! (Of course it would be great if it was a 28mm but what the heck.) |
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 10:00
| LuisLopes320: Bear in mind that even on the A700 I had a Type-M screen installed (you have to go to Sony for that). That helps loads more. The key is to see what is 'around' the shallow focus plane, and use that 'area' to focus as well. |
Posted By: Frankman
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 10:34
|
Nice review Albanok. I'm impressed at what this lens can do. My only concern is that without a focus screen, it can take a lot of practice to get the focus right, especially in low light.
Just to remind you and others that I've created a listing for this lens in our lens database http://www.dyxum.com/lenses/resultsAdv.asp - here . Perhaps you and others who have the lens can leave a few reviews. And one more favour.. can I "borrow" your first image for the database. It looks pretty sad saying "image needed". 
Cheers, Frank ------------- *** Sony A850 * A700 * Minolta 5D and other stuff *** |
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 10:49
|
Frankman: I'll have to give it a go with my Type-G soon.
Though, the Samyang version would be better suited since it is the main name? I think D-Schap has one. Though yes you can use it for the moment until there is a Samyang shot. :D P.S. it's albnok (short for Albert Ng and O.K. are my Chinese initials.) |
Posted By: Samsonov
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 10:51
|
Very informative post albnok, as usual from you, thanks!
I want to comment, in fact ask further questions about this: "This lens is best used with a Sony Alpha 500/550 that has MF Check Live View.... etc" Did you or anybody else tried that combo? I am thinking of buying A550 specifically to use with Samyang (and other) MF lenses, using the MF check LV feature. However... I think you made a mistake, as ONLY A550 has this feature, A500, at least on paper, does not. The other thing that bothers me is focal length. In my experience, I use LV in 80% of cases when doing wide angle shots (say, <=30mm), LV helps with framing a lot in wide angle, however when doing 50mm and longer I am much more comfortable with OVF. Thus, I am quite suspicious as to how would 85mm MF + MF LV combo would work. Any comment on this? |
Posted By: tomiZG
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 10:59
|
Thanks a lot for the review! Quite impressed with this lens now, too. ------------- a900+VG, a850, Nex3n | Dynax500 | http://www.tomislavsebek.com - portfolio |
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 29 December 2009 at 11:00
|
Samsonov: Am sure the A500 does have MF Check LV:
http://www.alphamountworld.com/reviews/sony-alpha-dslr-a500-review-and-conclusion#comments - http://www.alphamountworld.com/reviews/sony-alpha-dslr-a500-review-and-conclusion#comments The A500 only loses 7 FPS, VGA resolution, and 2 megapixels. I have not personally tried it, but I do know that when you use the 7x and 14x magnify mode, handshake is very obvious. It would probably be easier to focus without any magnification. Interesting thing to try the next time I can! (I remember trying 14x with the Sony 70-300mm F4.5-5.6G SSM - not humanly possible!) Also, since 1/40s is fine on the A900, I presume I (results may vary) could do fine at 1/60s on the A500. |
Posted By: jumphigh
Date Posted: 31 December 2009 at 16:23
|
I have been tempted and did a lot of research on this lens and now I have only 2 questions left
Do we lose DOF function with this lens? SSS will still be effective(50mm)if not optimal for this lens? ------------- Sony DSLR-A850 Minolta 20/2.8, Minolta 28/2.8, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta 135/2.8, Minolta 100/2.8(D) Minolta 17-35/2.8-4(D), Minolta 28-75/2.8(D) |
Posted By: cruzerpics
Date Posted: 31 December 2009 at 16:58
I think you are misinformed the a500 definitely has MF live I've been using it for the last 2 months and it works great. I must admit working with longer focal lengths hand held can be challenge as the image can get quite jittery but a monopod or tripod makes the job much easier.------------- http://www.brandoncruz.com - Cruzerpics http://shop.ebay.com/lumodi/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340 - Lumodi Beauty Dish |
Samsonov wrote:Posted By: brettania
Date Posted: 31 December 2009 at 17:01
| Thanks for this Albert -- I have added a link to it in the entry for the http://www.dyxum.com/lenses/detail.asp?IDLens=554 - Samyang version. |
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 31 December 2009 at 22:48
And now, for more from the Opteka 85mm F1.4! 
I also took the opportunity to compare it to the Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA - something I may not want to do in fear of finding my lens inferior. Fortunately, it wasn't the case... strongly. Here's the Opteka 85mm F1.4 focused to 1 meter, its minimum focusing distance. 
The Zeiss 85mm F1.4, however, magnifies a lot more because: 1) it can focus to 85cm close 2) it has external focus Internal focus lenses tend to widen the angle of view, thus causing lesser magnification. For example, the Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus lens focuses to 87cm close, giving a 1:4x maximum magnification. It is an external focus lens. The Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA can focus to 72cm close... so logically, it should be able to get closer and get a better magnification, right? However, as it is internal focus, its angle of view widens at close range, and so it gets the same 1:4x maximum magnification as the STF! So, there are benefits to external focus lenses. 
Size-wise they are quite similiar. Both use 72mm filter threads. 
The Zeiss hood can literally eat the Opteka hood! 
And how about a portrait comparison? Opteka 85mm F1.4 at F1.4 1/100s ISO800. 
Here's the same thing from the Zeiss at the same settings. Honestly, at a glance, the overall contrast looks very similiar! Also, the Opteka is very capable of picking up ambient colors the way the Zeiss does. Please pardon that the Opteka has a slightly different focus plane. 
It is only when you start pixel-peeping that you see why the Zeiss costs 4 times the price... this is a 100% crop from the Opteka. It is pretty sharp wide open! 
However, this is a 100% crop from the Zeiss! The keyword here is microcontrast - it has far more contrasty details. I would say that after this exercise, I understood what the Zeiss microcontrast thing was all about. The Opteka is really 80% of the Zeiss, for 25% the price! |
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 31 December 2009 at 22:49
I also tried the Opteka on the Sony Alpha 550 - this used MF Check Live View. Works great even at 7x zoom (14x zoom is a bit too shaky for a 85mm lens.) 
Accuracy even at no zoom using MF Check LV was pretty good! 
However, when I tried to use the Quick AF Live View mode, manual-focusing using the LCD, it just seemed to be off all the time. However I could notice a slight sharpening happening in Quick AF Live View mode. 
Finally, don't fear the 1 meter minimum focusing distance - you can dismount the lens and turn it the other way around. You can even control the aperture using the aperture ring! 
It gives about 70mm for a 36mm-wide sensor, or 1:1.94x maximum magnification. In other news, there might be a Samyang 35mm F1.4: http://www.lenstip.com/index.php?art=122 - http://www.lenstip.com/index.php?art=122 I would buy that no questions asked! Knowing the obscene quality of the Samyang 85mm F1.4 you can bet the 35mm is going to be a winner. Since it is a full-frame wide-angle it should have a better MFD than the Sigma 30mm F1.4's mediocre 40cm. (The Sigma looks nice on FF despite the vignetting!) |
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 31 December 2009 at 22:55
|
jumphigh: You get to see DOF as you turn the aperture ring. Of course if you have the stock viewfinder you only see the effect of F3.2 or thereabouts and setting the lens to F1.4 you'd see shallower DOF in the picture than in the viewfinder.
SteadyShot will not work without a chip. brettania: Thanks! |
Posted By: Exminolta
Date Posted: 03 January 2010 at 03:50
| I know this sound a bit off topic. Anyone here thinks if it is possible to add Af confirmation chip on back of this 85mm lens? May be glue it or change the mount to M42 to MA with chip attached? |
Posted By: jumphigh
Date Posted: 03 January 2010 at 04:10
|
Go here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bengt-re/4005775044/ I thought it's a bit useless. I mean you would still spend time learning how to MF with it. And say you master it, you will compose then look to the bottom left to wait for the green light to show up and stop flashing then look backup and double check your focus then check your composition again? Won't it be faster and accurate if you adept to MF? Maybe even with the help of a Type M scree. It's safer and your lens retains value better and you become a better photographer. ------------- Sony DSLR-A850 Minolta 20/2.8, Minolta 28/2.8, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta 135/2.8, Minolta 100/2.8(D) Minolta 17-35/2.8-4(D), Minolta 28-75/2.8(D) |
Posted By: albnok
Date Posted: 03 January 2010 at 07:45
|
jumphigh: Although I am personally used to using the screen to MF (and I never looked at the focus confirm when I my M42 chipped adapter was working) I would still buy a chipped adapter. Why?
- Aperture Priority auto-exposure - better or less buggy flash exposure - ability to use Intelligent Preview (for testing WB and exposure) The lens would have more value with a chip definitely. |
Posted By: jumphigh
Date Posted: 03 January 2010 at 08:00
|
oh darn, I love Intelligent Preview... ------------- Sony DSLR-A850 Minolta 20/2.8, Minolta 28/2.8, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta 135/2.8, Minolta 100/2.8(D) Minolta 17-35/2.8-4(D), Minolta 28-75/2.8(D) |
Posted By: Exminolta
Date Posted: 20 January 2010 at 18:41
|
Hello everyone;
When I saw this review, I went and got myself one. For the price of 249.00 USD is not bad. Unfortunately, focusing is hard. Therefor I improvised. I replace the mount with those M42 to AF with chip sold on Ebay. 
With this I can easily get focus confirmation on the view finder 
The hard part was that getting the right amount of distance from the sensor because the one they sold is very thin, plus with that the issue of infinity focusing problems may occur, and it did. Here as you can see I made myself some spacer using aluminium foil. Then I added other stuff from cardboard to plastic lids cut to size. 
The color of this lens is very nice and warm. However it woould not register at F1.4 instead it only register at F1.7. This must be a problem with the chip but when I replaced the with another one, It shows the same thing. I also managed to fix the infinity problem by finding and adding the right spacer thickness. Some samples shots taken tight after. At F2.8 it shines 
At F1.4 a fraction is only in focus but still nice IMO 
F2.8 again 
2.8 
Cropped 
Outdoors, sorry the apeture number but mostly at F1.4 and F2.8 1.4 
2.8 
Mounted on My A700 
|
Posted By: Kaolinchemist
Date Posted: 20 January 2010 at 22:03
|
It looks like Pete Ganzel needs to get to work and machine an adapter that is the correct width and sell it to us so we don't have to do the spacer part!
Very nice description of your DIY project thanks for sharing and Pete tell us when the adapters will be for sale. |
Posted By: Exminolta
Date Posted: 20 January 2010 at 22:59
| Actually, I was having difficulty focusing infinity. To make things right I brought out the caliper and measured the distance. I found out that having the spacer is making things worse. So I removed them but I shaved the plastic part- where the mount is attached. And believe me or not it worked. Infinity was achieved. I'll post an update on that later. |
Posted By: dca1213
Date Posted: 20 January 2010 at 23:49
|
So help me understand this, when shooting with this lens are you basically shooting in what used to be referred to as stopped down metering mode?
You focus with the lens wide open and then stop down to the desired f stop and set the shutter speed for the correct exposure? ------------- Dennis |
Posted By: LetoAtreidesII
Date Posted: 21 January 2010 at 00:02
|
dca1213: That would be correct. With a chipped adapter on it you can use A mode so the shutter speed is chosen automatically. ------------- a200 | Sony 18-70 | Sony 24-105 | 50/1.7 | Beercan | 5400HS |
Posted By: dca1213
Date Posted: 21 January 2010 at 00:17
|
What I don't see in the photo of the lens is an apeture pin on the mount to interface with the body apeture lever so I don't see how it can work in any mode but manual/stopped down metering mode, seems like the apeture needs to be set manually. Unless I'm missing something it seems that the chipped adaptor would only provide focus confirmation?
------------- Dennis |
Posted By: LetoAtreidesII
Date Posted: 21 January 2010 at 00:28
|
It doesn't interface with the aperture, you are correct. The aperture is set manually on the lens (while the camera still thinks the lens is wide open), but the camera can meter it that way and choose the correct shutter speed if you use it to A mode.
It is stop down metering. I just wanted to make it clear that you can still use A mode and have the camera choose the shutter speed. ------------- a200 | Sony 18-70 | Sony 24-105 | 50/1.7 | Beercan | 5400HS |
Posted By: Gabriel
Date Posted: 21 January 2010 at 00:29
|
There is no aperture linkage, but with a chip you could still use it in A mode. Unless setting aperture on the body you would set aperture on the lens, but the body would adjust shutter speed automatically. (like with other manual lenses) ------------- Pic a day http://tinyurl.com/2008-p-a-d - 2008 / http://tinyurl.com/2009-pad - 2009 / http://gabriel.mp3-tech.org/pics/galleries/2010_pic_a_day - 2010 galleries |
Posted By: dogears
Date Posted: 21 January 2010 at 00:31
Very nice review albnok! 
It's about the same price I got my 85/1.4 :P That 35mm sounds pretty inviting! ------------- http://shutteredlight.blogspot.com - woof! |
Posted By: madtownkeith
Date Posted: 21 January 2010 at 16:27
|
Very nice review!
For those who may have missed this thread initially, here's a link to a lengthy discussion about this lens from a few months back - lots of useful info and sample pictures: http://www.dyxum.com/dforum/korean-made-85mm-14-pics-and-thoughts_topic47750_page1.html - Rokinon 85mm discussion ------------- a77, Sigma 18-250, Sony 35 1.8, Sigma 70-200 HSM II, Rokinon 85 1.4, and other gear constantly on rotation :) |
Posted By: Exminolta
Date Posted: 21 January 2010 at 20:15
|
As promised that I'll post more of this great lens. BTW when I removed the spacers (seem my old post) the infinity problem was solved. I can now shoot at far distance and still get it focus right.
Here some more samples. F1.4 
2.0 
2.2 or 2.5 
F2.8 my favorite 
Again as before when the spacer were in placed, this lens has proven it is worthy in my bag. Anyway let me tell you once again that when the original mount is replace with a chipped one, it will onlt register at F1.7 "NOT F1.4" At F.4
|
Posted By: LetoAtreidesII
Date Posted: 21 January 2010 at 20:35
|
The aperture should register as whatever the chip says. The chip has no idea what lens you put it on. Some places you buy a chip from will program the chip to whatever focal length and aperture you want, but some places will by default just send you a standard 50mm f1.7 or something. Some random m42 adapter with AF confirmation from ebay is probably like this. So you also shouldn't use SSS with your current chip, as it is most likely not set to be 85mm. Check your EXIF information to see what it is reporting itself to the camera as. ------------- a200 | Sony 18-70 | Sony 24-105 | 50/1.7 | Beercan | 5400HS |
Posted By: Kaolinchemist
Date Posted: 21 January 2010 at 22:24
|
Could you give us more detail on exactly which chip did you buy and maybe explain for us dissasembly noobs what steps you take to actually complete the mod.
Thanks! |
Posted By: skm.sa100
Date Posted: 21 January 2010 at 23:02
|
I got the lens myself and am happy with the performance.
What I would be glad of to see a how-to guide from a newbie perspective on how to mount a chip on the lens. James Lao has 85mm/1.4 chips so i guess I could get one but I've never done anything of this sort before and I'm scared of ending up with a $250 paper weight. So a guide for dummies from anyone who's modified this lens would be extremely useful. Thanks! Sashi ------------- More Dyxumer, less photographer. |
Posted By: Exminolta
Date Posted: 22 January 2010 at 06:56
|
H O W TO M O U N T M42 TO AF CHIPPED on your SAMYANG/OPTEKA 85mm F1.4
First let's talk about the DONT'S: 1. Do not over tighten anything. Especially during installation of your new chip. 2. Do not remove the aperture ring. If you like, you can grill your lens with salt and pepper, throw it off a cliff, burn your house with it, BUT Never, never, nungca, REMOVE the aperture ring (the one with the number that you dial down or up). This will be a disaster, especially when you hear that tiny ballbearing snaps away. 3. Do not sue me if you are not successful. You make your own risk, I did. Plus I got no money. In addition, taking risks mean New Discovery. And well behaved men rarely make history. **TOOLS NEEDED** 1. M42 to AF Adapter with Chip. Got mine from this fella from Hong Kong http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280440747297&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_2760wt_988 2. Micro screw driver. Can be found anywhere. I got mine with a blacked tip. These types are more durable. 3. Drill with drill bits. Sizes are: 1/16 (for the screw hole), and 3/32 (for counter sinking) and 7/64 or 1/8 (for counter sinking). Note: I used all three bits, starting from the smallest going to the largest. 4. Marking tool- can be found at hardware stores. If you can't get one use a small nail and slightly tap it with a hammer to make you mark. 5. File- for thinning or shaving. 6. Hammer or Mallet- did I spelled that right? 7. Caliper Optional: Small vise grip **DISASSEMBLY** STEP 1. Remove the original mount. Screws to remove = 3. 
STEP 2. Remove the aperture controller- let's just call it that way shall we? Note: when you do this you will hear your aperture blades snap. This will close them to I think F22- DO not panic. 
STEP 3. Unscrew the plastic spacer. Screws to remove = 4. This one... 
STEP 4. Set aside you lens. cover it up because you don't want it to get dirty. The next steps will explain why this is so. **MODIFICATION** But reversable- trust me :) STEP 1. Get the plastic spacer that we just removed from STEP 4 under Disassembly. Use your file. We need to thin this plastic to "4mm". Do this slowly, I used only the tip part of the file. Take you time, no rush. You can also use sand paper but it could take longer. 
Filling will generate dusts- that's why you need to cover your lens really good or put it away for now. 
Anyway before we go further let me first explain some to you all. Do you See this... 
This J-shaped metal thingy is where the PIN on the aperture controller will be in between. This PIN I'm talking about... 
Then the other one will sit on the other Pin- that controls the aperture blades. Anyway you will understand this well when you see it. STEP 2. Once you get to 4mm. Clean it then but don't put it back yet on the lens. We are gonna use this as reference for the holes on the M42 to AF chipped adapter. **DRILLING THE HOLES to your Adapter** STEP 1. Match the holes and the mounting marker and the white dot. Just spot it with your eye. It is not that hard. I did it by placing my mark just below the outermost line. Like this... 
Here's what it looks like after it is marked... 
STEP 2. After making your mark, drill it using your smallest drill bit. I used the 1/16 first. STEP 3. Drill to Counter sink. Do this slowly- you do not want to make a big hole or else you screws will just go right through it. Here... 
STEP 4. Put every thing back and do not forget to set the aperture controller on the right position. Make sure the PIN sits in "between" the J_SHAPED- whatever you call it. And do not over tighten your screws on the M42 chip. STEP 5. Test it. See if you can mount it easily without grinding on your Alpha. I did this by mounting it on my old film camera. Finished product without any spacers. 
Good Luck To All and Enjoy. Nelson Pineda - Exminolta. |
Posted By: skm.sa100
Date Posted: 22 January 2010 at 07:11
|
Exminolta, that's a very good explanation with good pictures.
I hope to try it out someday. When I do, I'll post the results. Thanks a lot! Sashi ------------- More Dyxumer, less photographer. |
Posted By: LetoAtreidesII
Date Posted: 22 January 2010 at 08:03
|
That's a great explanation, but I think photoclubalpha's method sounds much easier:
http://www.dyxum.com/dforum/korean-made-85mm-14-pics-and-thoughts_topic47750_post571428.html#571428 - http://www.dyxum.com/dforum/korean-made-85mm-14-pics-and-thoughts_topic47750_post571428.html#571428 Using the mount that's already on there means you don't have to worry about spacing and getting infinity focus messed up. I think it would be beneficial to get a James Lao chip so you can specify the correct focal length, to allow proper SSS operation. Or some other vendor who will customize the ROM chip for you, but Lao seems to be the most trusted around here. ------------- a200 | Sony 18-70 | Sony 24-105 | 50/1.7 | Beercan | 5400HS |
Posted By: Exminolta
Date Posted: 22 January 2010 at 19:41
I think you missed the whole point why I did it this way. First, I would like to be able to put back in original condition, if in case it will be needed. 2nd grinding the plastic spacer does solved the infinity problem , because what they sell in ebay are thinner, therefore by grinding it you them moving the glass near/closer to the sensor. But hey! who am I talking to, you do it this way or that, it's all up to you. I find it nasty to dissect a lens like that by cutting inapropriately. Plus, I really don't care much for James Lao products, this is another, in my opinion, apportunists to make money by exploiting the lacked of knowledge of other members. I am not a fan of buying stuff just because someone said it is good for them. I like to make my own direction instead of following the old beaten path. |
Posted By: LetoAtreidesII
Date Posted: 22 January 2010 at 20:22
You don't need to get so defensive, I'm just letting the other readers know that there is another way as well. I know that you solved the infinity problem by grinding, but then doesn't that negate your first goal of returning it back to original condition, since the spacer is no longer in its original condition? More to the point, if you'd read the post he says he screwed up by buying the thinner M42 adapter style ROM chip, and if he'd used the AF rechip ROM instead he wouldn't have had to cut into the mount at all. All you'd need is epoxy or the like to glue on the ROM chip. If you don't want SSS that's fine too, but I would think some members might want it, and for correct operation you'd need a ROM chip that reports an 85mm focal length. As I said, if you find another vendor who will program the ROM chip to specifications instead of Lao that's fine -- it's just that he's a trusted vendor. You can find lots of vendors discussed http://www.dyxum.com/dforum/m42-adapters-results-summary_topic1472.html - here . But nearly all of those vendors won't customize the focal length of the ROM chip for you. So how is he exploiting the lack of knowledge by providing a service? Can you reprogram ROM chips yourself? Even if you knew how, do you have the hardware to do it? Again, as I said, you gave a great explanation. Very detailed. And I'm glad it's working well for you. I just wanted to show another option since I'm sure most people missed it when it was first discussed. ------------- a200 | Sony 18-70 | Sony 24-105 | 50/1.7 | Beercan | 5400HS |
Posted By: Exminolta
Date Posted: 24 January 2010 at 23:05
|
Hello again everyone;
About my last post. I meant to disrespect no one and I mean that. Especially to the guy above this post. Anyway, I must say that this lens failed to disappoint me. I went to Disney's Animal Kingdom Yesterday with the kids and brought only this lens. Yes, only this lens. I thought I will hate myself afterwards but it turned out to otherwise. Here they are: 5.6 
2.8 Again my favorite 
3.5 
F4 
2.8 
2.8 
I'm not sure but I think F4 again 
2.8 definitely.. 
2.8 
2.0 
F1.4 and this was a moving target. It is still acceptable IMO. 
Conclusion: The Opteka 85mm f1.4 is definitely worthy to be in my bag. It is very sharp in most F stops. The chipped M42 that I installed will register only at 1.7 no matter what aperture I select. Therefore, it is easy to get confused when processing or naming aperture value. Focusing wasn't all that bad. I learned very fast. Now I am thinking of a focusing screen for my a300, because I found it more compatible with camera, plus I don't really want to alter my a200 or my a700. The live view function is not perfect with this lens but it worked. SSS seems to be working but not really sure. This lens will be on my next wedding shoot and more likely in my studio shoot. Hope you all like this little review. |
Posted By: Slipsale
Date Posted: 30 January 2010 at 13:25
Yes, this 85/1.4 is really a good lens, very sharp. This lens is http://translate.google.fr/translate?hl=fr&sl=fr&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.alpha-numerique.fr%2Findex.php%3Foption%3Dcom_content%26view%3Darticle%26id%3D410%3Atrois-focales-fixes-85mm-face-a-lalpha-900%26catid%3D84%3Aoptiques%26Itemid%3D341 - sharper in the border and in the edges than the Minolta 85/1.4 G (D) on a A900  , probably thanks to its coating (the coating of the old Minolta lenses are not optimized for the large sensor of a digital 24x36 and the reflexion causes flare and a loss of micro-contrast/sharpness).
Here some pics with my A900 : 1/ f2, 1/8000, 200 iso + crop 100%.  
2/ f2, 1/8000, 200 iso + crop 100%. 
3/ and 4/ A f2, 1/500, 200 iso.  
5/ f2, 1/160cme, 1600 iso + crop 100%.  
6/ f8, 1/250cme, 200 iso + crop 100%.  
7/ f2, 1/500cme, 400 iso and 8/ A f1.4, 1/320cme, 200 iso.   ------------- http://www.patricklombaert.fr - My website and the french forum dedicated to A-mount : http://www.alphadxd.fr - http://www.alphadxd.fr |
Posted By: Raimios
Date Posted: 30 January 2010 at 13:52
|
Maybe one test from me too:
Test picture f=1.4 
more than 100% crop at center: 
and at corner: 
Pretty good ...not much CA, even the subject isn't very easy.....IN fact, lens is very sharp from 2.8 to 11 ... ------------- Light glorifies everything. The object is nothing, light is everything My gallery: http://raimios.kuvat.fi" rel="nofollow - Raimios |
Posted By: Slipsale
Date Posted: 30 January 2010 at 14:04
|
It's a bad idea to put your example of corner because it's out of focus (we can't have any conclusion about the quality of this lens in the corner with this example). ------------- http://www.patricklombaert.fr - My website and the french forum dedicated to A-mount : http://www.alphadxd.fr - http://www.alphadxd.fr |
Posted By: LetoAtreidesII
Date Posted: 30 January 2010 at 18:17
Birds in flight with manual focus? Impressive. ------------- a200 | Sony 18-70 | Sony 24-105 | 50/1.7 | Beercan | 5400HS |
Posted By: Raimios
Date Posted: 30 January 2010 at 18:29
|
More examples, all crops ... latest pictute tells how much that cropping is.....
http://www.dyxum.com/dforum/some-old-cameras-many-pictures_topic58394.html - Old cameras ------------- Light glorifies everything. The object is nothing, light is everything My gallery: http://raimios.kuvat.fi" rel="nofollow - Raimios |
Posted By: clarencewstone
Date Posted: 30 January 2010 at 22:32
|
alright who is already bored for theirs and willign to sell me another for a good price? =D
------------- A700, A300, Minolta 7d, Maxxum 7000, Minolta 500si,58 f1.4, MD 50 f2, MD 45 f2, AF 28 f2.8, AF 50 1.7, AF 70-210 f4 beercan , AF 35-70 f4, Tamron 70-200 2.8, Sigma 28-200, Tamron 28-75 2.8, 35 1.8 SAM |
Posted By: Raimios
Date Posted: 30 January 2010 at 23:30
Check ebay, I bought mine at €106, I guess it is pretty good deal for brand new Samyang made 85/1,4 ------------- Light glorifies everything. The object is nothing, light is everything My gallery: http://raimios.kuvat.fi" rel="nofollow - Raimios |
Posted By: Slipsale
Date Posted: 31 January 2010 at 17:45
Thank you. But birds in Paris are very slow cause of pollution.  ------------- http://www.patricklombaert.fr - My website and the french forum dedicated to A-mount : http://www.alphadxd.fr - http://www.alphadxd.fr |
Posted By: ricardovaste
Date Posted: 20 June 2010 at 17:19
|
I was approached a few weeks ago by someone in the UK about adding a chip to his 85mm Samyang lens. I finally got to work on it today... took a while, but hadn't done one before so took my time. We decided that it was best to replace the entire mount with a chipped one - it is more 'aesthetic' this way and it may also be helpful if the lens decides to become faulty at any point in the future and requires a repair under warranty (he would just put the old mount back on... this may not work in reality, but it was still the best way of doing things in my mind).
http://rharris.smugmug.com/Lens-Conversion/Rokkor-to-Sony/Samyang-chipped-mount/12501168_kKCfg#907364471_kYgmi-A-LB"> 
edit: Just to be clear, I did not buy this, I machined the parts myself. ------------- I photograph the moments in people's lives that mean the most to them: http://www.rharris-images.com/ - Richard Harris Photography |
Posted By: lss_1405
Date Posted: 20 June 2010 at 17:31
| Where can you get a chipped replacement mount? |
Posted By: ricardovaste
Date Posted: 20 June 2010 at 21:28
| I have the parts for one more available. I will try and get it done sometime this week. |
Posted By: skm.sa100
Date Posted: 21 June 2010 at 16:27
|
Rich, did you document the process?
Better still, if you do one more this week, can you capture a video of it and put it on youtube? I'm looking for a well documented guide so that I can do it myself. Thanks! Sashi ------------- More Dyxumer, less photographer. |
Posted By: ricardovaste
Date Posted: 21 June 2010 at 17:26
|
Hi Sashi,
Well, as I said in my PM, I didn't document anything as I was just concentrating on the job at hand. I believe there is a very detailed documentation earlier in this thread, which I just noticed after posting, so one could follow that if you wanted to do it yourself. Take care. |
Posted By: kozmo
Date Posted: 21 June 2010 at 17:34
|
You should make these and sell them. Any left? It so how much? ------------- A850 vg, A57 A33. Zeiss 135 1.8, Tamron 200-400 17-50 2.8 Minolta 100 f2, 50 1.7, 85 1.4 RS, , 35-105, sony 30 macro, tokina 19-35, Beercan. |
Posted By: groovyone
Date Posted: 21 June 2010 at 17:41
Great work. Very clean install. ------------- A99|A900|A100IR|A7|Maxxum 7|Maxxum 5|Polaroid |
Posted By: ricardovaste
Date Posted: 21 June 2010 at 20:55
|
Thanks Keith!
kozmo - you get send me a PM if you'd like one at some point. Problem at the moment is I don't actually have an 85/1.4 to test such a thing on, so it will require a little work yet. ------------- I photograph the moments in people's lives that mean the most to them: http://www.rharris-images.com/ - Richard Harris Photography |
Posted By: Grodan74
Date Posted: 23 June 2010 at 00:30
|
Amazing lens! Just got mine chipped today, after some while with the "wrong" chip in my possession (which would be the m42 version from james lao). But I got it installed after some rasping (or whatever you call it).
However if I would have bought the "fat" chip from james lao it would have fitted without any modification except for the epoxy-glue, so this is what I would recommend, if you are smooth in your handling with the glue you will have it done in a few minutes. The focus confirm I find not very useful as I still focus with my eye. (I will soon order a focusing screen). The A-mode is quite useful, it is nice to not turn the wheel like a maniac all the time. But the real kicker is the f1.4 and SSS combination! It's f-ing fabulous! //Albin ------------- α300 | Samyang 85/1.4 | Sony 50/1.8 | Kit-lens | Minolta 70-210 f4.5-5.6 | Minolta 28-85 f3.5-4.5 | F42 | |
Posted By: skm.sa100
Date Posted: 24 June 2010 at 14:43
|
Albin, can you give a link to exactly which chip you used? And a picture of the chipped lens? It sounds tempting to be able to just get a chip and glue it on.
Also, why is it that the focus confirmation isn't useful? Is there a large "zoom range" through which the focus confirmation stays on? I've read about that somewhere in the past. ------------- More Dyxumer, less photographer. |
Posted By: Grodan74
Date Posted: 24 June 2010 at 18:57
|
Yes, no problem.
I ordered the M42-a/MAF chip from http://eadpt.cn/eadpen.htm. I Think that the MD-a/MAF chip would have been easier to install. However if you are unsure if it will fit, the modification of the mount to fit the M42 chip wasn't that hard, took maybe 20 minutes of rasping. Here are a few pics: The mount just prior to gluing, with the chip next to it http://img820.imageshack.us/i/dsc2854.jpg/"> 
The mount with the chip (not glued). It would be nice if it had looked liked this after the gluing http://img706.imageshack.us/i/dsc2856c.jpg/"> 
But instead it looked like this (a lot harder to handle than i thought) http://img34.imageshack.us/i/dsc2860i.jpg/"> 
After some processing http://img149.imageshack.us/i/dsc2873s.jpg/"> 
The final result (very not pretty but i works) http://img266.imageshack.us/i/dsc3052.jpg/"> 
Maybe I was a little harsch regarding the focus confirm. Ofcourse it can be useful, but it can be pretty hard to notice (maybe its the small VF of my a300), and its hard to look at the focusconfirm-LED and still point the focus-point at the right direction. //Albin ------------- α300 | Samyang 85/1.4 | Sony 50/1.8 | Kit-lens | Minolta 70-210 f4.5-5.6 | Minolta 28-85 f3.5-4.5 | F42 | |
Posted By: ricardovaste
Date Posted: 24 June 2010 at 19:02
|
Not a bad job there Albin, thanks for sharing it with us!
I think the only problem I have with hacking the genuine rear mount is if it needs a repair at some point. There are a few reports of the aperture blades/mechanism 'exploding' with this lens, which would remove any chance of a warranty repair as far as I can see. But then, it's an inexpensive lens, so best get what you can of it and just enjoy it ------------- I photograph the moments in people's lives that mean the most to them: http://www.rharris-images.com/ - Richard Harris Photography |
Posted By: Grodan74
Date Posted: 25 June 2010 at 12:35
|
Thanks :)
Regarding the warranty, I'll worry about it the day I have to. It's not the most expensive lens, and perhaps I can buy a mount from someone if I need warranty-repair. But as I said, Come the day, come the sorrow, or as in sweden: den dagen den sorgen //Albin ------------- α300 | Samyang 85/1.4 | Sony 50/1.8 | Kit-lens | Minolta 70-210 f4.5-5.6 | Minolta 28-85 f3.5-4.5 | F42 | |
Posted By: le_huf
Date Posted: 04 July 2010 at 12:10
|
thanks for sharing. i ordered my chip several weeks ago but didn't have the heart to attach it without a good documentation. can't wait to try it out by myself.
happy shooting le_huf ------------- http://www.flickr.com/photos/le_huf/ - le_huf on Flickr α700 | Min 28-135 f4-4.5 | Min 50 f1.7 | Min 70-210 f4 | Sigma 10-20 f4-5.6 | Samyang 85 f1.4 |
Posted By: ConfuciusTse
Date Posted: 03 November 2010 at 01:54
|
I have my Rokinon version and a chip I got on Ebay (I can't find James Lao!). Anyway, the chip has a tab on the outer curve that basically requires cutting into the mount which I am very hesitant to do. Also the bottom of the chip has a bump in the middle (think of a see-saw) so simple super glue won't work either.
Would be great if the A-mount version came pre-chipped (like the Nikon one). I'd be willing to pay a premium for that. I actually find myself manually focusing pretty well but a quick green chirp would eliminate the zoom focus check step. Also, I had originally thought my A33 would default SSS to 50mm but it appears to be off altogether without a chip. Maybe I'm wrong though...any way to check? |
Posted By: trainerKEN
Date Posted: 23 November 2010 at 21:32
...so, about 3 weeks ago, I picked up this lens used locally (actually from a member of Dyxum), and took some awesome pictures with my a550... last week I picked up a a900 (yes, I've been spoiling myself ), and finally got around to mount it on the FF body today... took it out and discovered there's a major back focus issue  I started thinking there was something wrong with the lens, so went back and mounted it on the a550 again... and no problems. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a remedy? ------------- https://www.instagram.com/kenchengphotography/ - Portrait Instagram * https://www.instagram.com/trainerken/ - Street/City/Landscape/Personal Instagram |
Posted By: teejay
Date Posted: 23 November 2010 at 21:52
|
@trainerKen- have you changed your viewfinder screen on a900? The position of the screen influences your vision of the focus point - it can be adapted via 'shims' - thin plastic sheets you mount with the screen.
Could diopter adjustment be also the culprit? ------------- Sony a99|HLV42|Minolta 17-35/2.8-4|24-105/3.5-4.5|28-105/3.5-4.5|24/2.8|35/2|35/1.4|50/1.4|85/1.4|100/2.8mRS|135/2.8|200/2.8|TC1.4|Sigma 180/5.6 |
Posted By: trainerKEN
Date Posted: 23 November 2010 at 21:59
I haven't touched the viewfinder screen... would I have to change this going from lens to lens? ------------- https://www.instagram.com/kenchengphotography/ - Portrait Instagram * https://www.instagram.com/trainerken/ - Street/City/Landscape/Personal Instagram |
Posted By: teejay
Date Posted: 24 February 2011 at 05:25
|
Just thought I'd share my evening's work: successful chipping of the samyang!! I followed Slipsale's guide on the french forum alphadxd, all you need is some two component epoxy patty, and a file. A 1h job. Here are the results:  ------------- Sony a99|HLV42|Minolta 17-35/2.8-4|24-105/3.5-4.5|28-105/3.5-4.5|24/2.8|35/2|35/1.4|50/1.4|85/1.4|100/2.8mRS|135/2.8|200/2.8|TC1.4|Sigma 180/5.6 |
Posted By: drice23
Date Posted: 21 June 2011 at 15:01
| has anyone else tried this modification besides Exminolta. he has written great instructions, but I just want to know who all has tried this modification. I am wanting to try the mod for myself. I just need a confidence booster first. |
Posted By: ponz
Date Posted: 31 August 2011 at 02:36
TJ, Is that the M42-a/MAF ?? If so, did you file the small tab off the middle of the arc? No filing of the original lens mount? Simply build up some epoxy on the underside of the chip so it's flush with the ring? Ponz ------------- a900,& quite a few lenses |
Posted By: Jocelynne
Date Posted: 31 August 2011 at 03:55
WHAT A BLAST!  I am totally impressed. What a wonderful group of experts, all of you! This is a terrific illustrated essay. A superb tour de force. Once again, I prove my policy: I always try to associate with people who are better than I am. Dyxum does it again. I love you all!  ------------- Maxxum 450si, Sony A300, A700, A900 and a cubic meter of Alpha lenses |
Posted By: utcreeper
Date Posted: 31 August 2011 at 11:49
|
I suspect the A77 focus peaking will make this a very popular lens, if only in my own bag. ------------- http://www.flickr.com/photos/kreeper - Me @ flickr Various A-mount gear |
Posted By: tigertimb
Date Posted: 31 August 2011 at 13:17
|
I'm looking forward to this aspect with a number of fast AF lenses too - with shallow DOF manual focussing when using the peaking or 1:1 is going to be a lot easier and also likely to give better results than focusing and recomposing. ------------- Tim If you appreciate comments on your photos, how about returning the favour to others . . . |
Posted By: iullian
Date Posted: 13 June 2012 at 12:01
| Actually, I'm the unfortunate one that completely destroyed the chip while trying to glue it. I ended with glueing the entire chip and all the electronics were damaged. I tried to clean the connectors but... nothing happened. But, in my angryness I bought the A77 to solve the problem (focus peaking is a real marvel with this lens). |
Posted By: patrik.f
Date Posted: 21 July 2012 at 07:20
|
I use the Samyang 85mm with A850. With the standard focusing screen(type L) I found fucusing very hard. Maybe I nailed 1 of 10. First I replaced the focusing screen with a type M. That improved my results significant but not enough to make me confident. I considered to try the sony FDAM1AM magnifier but i understand that it decreases the viewable angle so in the end it wouldn't make focusing easier. After a while i read about the KPS eyepiece with 1.35 magnification. I bought one and it really made a difference. Now with enough light and a stationary object I manage to focus correct in 99% of the cases. |