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Antarctic expedition Dec. '22 - Jan. '23. Final

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Jozioau View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Jozioau Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Antarctic expedition Dec. '22 - Jan. '23. Final
    Posted: 24 March 2023 at 05:16
Continuing the numbering from Part 12.

Having high-tailed it back to Ushuaia for a medical evacuation and dockside ambulance transfer to hospital for a passenger who fell ill (all turned out well), we had our itinerary cut short by a day and a half. In compensation Aurora chartered a catamaran with local guide for us to explore the Beagle Channel for half a day, and here are some photos of this final chapter.

191. Approaching Ushuaia in calm conditions. One of those 'Las Vegas-on-a-hull' cruise ships taking up all of one side of the dock. These also head to the Antarctic Peninsula where the seas are free of ice, but passengers can't make any landings.
Approaching Ushuaia docks by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

192. A large cormorant colony with the Andes as a backdrop, and also some greenery.
Cormorant hatchery by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

193.
Andean peaks, Patagonia by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

194. We beached and disembarked on one of the many islands for a bit of an exploratory walk.
Patagonian Beagle Channel island meadow by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

195.
Looking up the Beagle Channel by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

196. Quite a change from the ice, snow and bare rocks of Antarctica.
Plants and lichens by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

197. Saw and drifted closer to some Sei whales feeding and surfacing. I'd never heard of these but learned they are the 3rd largest of the Baleen Whales after Blue and Fin whales.
Sei whales blowing by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

198. Pronounced dorsal fins, but they don't show their tails as they dive as the Humpbacks do.
Sei whale surfacing by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

199.
Lighthouse island, Beagle Channel by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

200. Patagonian fur seals, looking quite different from their Antarctic cousins, share the islands with cormorants.
Cormorants and Patagonian fur seals by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

201.
Rocky home to seals and cormorants by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

202.
Fur seals and cormorants by Joe Lewit, on Flickr










Edited by Jozioau - 24 March 2023 at 05:31
"Your first 10,000 photographs are your worst" - Henri Cartier-Bresson
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Jozioau View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Jozioau Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 March 2023 at 05:42
203. Brown versions of their grey Antarctic cousins.
Patagonian fur seal family by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

204.
Patagonian fur seals by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

205.
Magellanic steamer duck by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

206. The 'Twitchers' among us were very surprised to see an Andean Condor here seen on top of a rocky island, with a turkey vulture OOF in the background, picking over the remains of a dead cormorant or seal.
Andean Condor and Turkey Vulture by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

207. Of course this is their habitat, but the bird watchers were a little surprised they range so far south.
Andean Condor arriving by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

208. In full male display mode.
Andean Condor landing by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

209.
Andean Condor taking flight by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

210.
Andean Condor alighting by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

211. And this time showing his breast patch.
Andean Condor display by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

212. A long tele shot from my hotel window on the mountainside above Ushuaia, with the 'Greg Mortimer' being the small white ship docked between the 2 blue hulled vessels. The hotel I took this from is the green roofed one seen in picture 191 on the right, in the woods above the town.
Ushuaia port by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

213. One last view of the Beagle Channel taken from the same hotel window.View down the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia by Joe Lewit, on Flickr

And so it's farewell to this adventure - an extraordinary experience. Hopefully these posts give a bit of a taste of it, but to have the full effect you have to be there of course, and what's missing here are the sounds, the feeling of cold, and the sometimes powerful smells.

Thanks for looking, and for the comments and feedback.




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Jadom View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Jadom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 March 2023 at 07:36
Thank you, Joe for outstanding "Antarctic Reportage". I'm guessing that it was excursion of your life. And, most likely, all Dyxumers (myself included) envy you this "experience".
Your beautiful pictures and great comments have shown us this mysterious part of the world. Unfortunately this kind of excursion will remain in my mind as one of the most wanted destinations which is impossible to execute due to its cost (unless I hit grand prize in Power Ball or Mega Millions - what is not happening so far ).
Anyway.... thank you so much for allowing me to be a member of virtual Antarctic excursion.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote addy landzaat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 March 2023 at 16:38
Envy, yes, that is one emotion I have with this series. I am also in awe, I am impressed. Thank you for taking us along this trip, really enjoyed it!
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Fred_S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Fred_S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 March 2023 at 18:12
What an experience that must have been!
The reportage was beautiful already, but 'living' it must be really amazing.
Thanks for taking us with you Joe!
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Harm vb View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Harm vb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 March 2023 at 18:40
Originally posted by addy landzaat addy landzaat wrote:

Envy, yes, that is one emotion I have with this series. I am also in awe, I am impressed. Thank you for taking us along this trip, really enjoyed it!

Couldn't say it better.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote 4paul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 March 2023 at 17:48
Originally posted by Harm vb Harm vb wrote:

Originally posted by addy landzaat addy landzaat wrote:

Envy, yes, that is one emotion I have with this series. I am also in awe, I am impressed. Thank you for taking us along this trip, really enjoyed it!

Couldn't say it better.


+3
thank you Joe!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote waldo_posth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 March 2023 at 21:39
A great finale, Joe! I very much like the rendering of the seals' fur - like in #201, #203 and #204.

Is there anything that you have been impressed by most - and you did not expect it?

"Stare, pry, listen, eavesdrop. Die knowing something. You are not here long." (Walker Evans)   http://www.flickr.com/photos/waldo_posth/
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Jozioau View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Jozioau Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2023 at 00:51
Thanks for the comments and feedback.
Yes this was certainly a 'trip of a lifetime', and a long time coming.

My wife and I had travelled with Aurora Expeditions when we took their small ship cruise from Darwin to Broome down the Kimberley Coast of Western Australia in 2016, and were very impressed by the experience.

Being rather daunted as a rather poor sailor at the prospect of crossing the Drake Passage, I was heartened to see and read about the revolutionary Ulstein X-bow ship design of their latest expedition ship, and it lived up to expectations. So eventually this voyage has happened, unfortunately with my wife missing out due to an unexpected illness from which she is now steadily recovering.

The whole trip was full of amazing sights, sound, smells and sensations. As I've said, almost sensory overload at times. And so different to anything else to the point that it necessarily takes time to properly absorb and really make sense of. Reviewing the thousands of photos helps.

As part of the deal, Aurora publishes and distributes to all passengers books of each journey including maps, daily diary logs written by different members of the expedition team, and photos including select ones from the participants. Plus I always create my own photo books after each of my travels. Originally these were Apple published but they ceased doing this a few years back, and now I use Mimeo who have taken over in a pretty seamless way and to the same high quality production standards. Something I enjoy dipping into, sharing with family and friends, and that I will happily browse through when my horizons close in with the passing years.

As for Harald's question: I'd have to say the most impactful moment for me would have been that first zodiac landing on a foggy beach at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia. Stepping ashore surrounded by hundreds of totally unafraid Antarctic fur seals with thousands of King penguins amongst them and stretching back through the fog to their vast rookeries in the distance, hearing the barks, growls, the honks and calls, feeling the cold, and inhaling the intense smells. Just being there, feeling the moment, taking it in, not taking photos for quite a while, was pretty special.


Edited by Jozioau - 26 March 2023 at 00:58
"Your first 10,000 photographs are your worst" - Henri Cartier-Bresson
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