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A Guide to Home B&W Developing

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Saleen219 View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 June 2006
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Posts: 268 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Saleen219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 December 2008 at 21:29
I've been using the powdered D76 as its cheaper for me to purchase (also cheaper shipping costs) but I was considering Rodinal for the ability to mix what I need, when I need it (so yes, so it keeps well) but also wanted to try it as its a different developer in general.
http://www.djkennedy.com
 



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Bob J View Drop Down
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Posts: 27163 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 December 2008 at 21:09
Originally posted by Saleen219 Saleen219 wrote:

The HP5 had been developed for the proper time and temps.

I was thinking of getting some Rodinal.


Sorry was not meaning to cast aspersions... :-)

I have been using Rodinal - tiny bottle, but recommended to me as a good one for people who don't develop very regularly because it keeps so well.
RBJ ~ Moderation on Dyxum
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Saleen219 View Drop Down
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Posts: 268 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Saleen219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 December 2008 at 20:41
Boy I'd love that 70-210 APO but zero cash. In the process of possible buying an older Minolta system, or a large format camera. THe 28-70mm 2.8 interests me too..but same reason above. Darn Christmas season

<-- my wallet

Edited by Saleen219 - 02 December 2008 at 20:43
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bill_bly_ca View Drop Down
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Posts: 915 		Post Options Post Options   Quote bill_bly_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 December 2008 at 20:31
As an aside to answer the question on how to get started on the "Cheap"...

Set up a RSS feed to your favorite home page on Kijiji and Craig's list with the search term "darkroom" . Last spring I managed to purchase an entire dark room from Enlarger w/ electronic timer right down to Tongs, pans and developing tanks for $125. Fellow was willing to take it to my door as well. The RSS search is still running on my page with a hit almost once a month, most at about the same $$ cost with equivelent span of equipment.

a850/a99/a7/grips, and all the other stuff
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Saleen219 View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 June 2006
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Posts: 268 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Saleen219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 December 2008 at 20:01
Here is a link to my b&w (film) gallery. The caption will indicated the film/devl/times used but just in case: the first 2 images were HP5 developed with HC-110, the next 3 HP5 developed with D76, last 5 images Kodak Tmax 400 developed with D76. The last 4 images developing temp was 21C vs 20C for all the other images.

THe aircraft image is the sharpest for some reason and I like the image of my son (the last photo in the gallery) - kinda sharp but grainy so it appeals to me.

I really didnt like the first image (my son) using HC-110 at all. Granted: the developer is over 10 years old but the container was never opened. The HP5 had been developed for the proper time and temps.

I was thinking of getting some Rodinal.
http://www.djkennedy.com
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Bob J View Drop Down
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Posts: 27163 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 December 2008 at 19:53
HP5 can be a little grainy (but not too bad) - Have you got an example you can post?

I've found the Fuji B&W films to be very fine grained, but generally you should be able to get optimum grain from HP5 by processing for very accurate times/temperatures...
RBJ ~ Moderation on Dyxum
 



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Saleen219 View Drop Down
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Posts: 268 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Saleen219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 December 2008 at 17:18
My problem is that I am NOT getting the sharpness I would have expected (ok, the sharpness I would have got if I took the film to a lab).

What developer will get me better sharpness? I know it isn't because the camera was not properly in focus or camera shake, its the grain structure/developer combination.

I have lots of b&w film to use - about two dozen rolls of different brands/emulsions but the brand I have most of is Ilford (Hp4/hp5).

Anyone know of what would be the best developer/times that would give the sharpest results? Yeah there will be times when I want the grain but not always.
http://www.djkennedy.com
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TonyW View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 November 2008
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Posts: 27 		Post Options Post Options   Quote TonyW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 December 2008 at 10:21
Another very good link is The Massive Development Chart, which gives processing times for most film and developer combinations, useful when processing unusual films :-

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

TonyW.
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dd001 View Drop Down
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Joined: 16 August 2006
Country: France
Location: Bordeaux
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Posts: 2140 		Post Options Post Options   Quote dd001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 December 2008 at 09:37
I did it too! I developped my first roll yesterday and the development results are fine, as good as the last roll I got from a lab (only it took me 2 hours, not 3 weeks to see the results). Still have some scratches and dust (but no more than from the lab), next time I will try to be more careful. Used Ilford Delta 400 + ID11 (1+1).
Thanks again Bob for this article!


Edited by dd001 - 01 December 2008 at 09:38
David - My Gallery
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Saleen219 View Drop Down
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Posts: 268 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Saleen219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 November 2008 at 09:04
I developed my first roll today (before I found this post). I was very pleased with the results. I was freaking out thinking I was going to do something wrong and end up with nothing but everything turned out ok!

I quite enjoyed the experience and will be developing another roll tomorrow.

"plus it is real hoot when a chemistry experiment finally works!" - so true!

"There is a real sense of achievement in not having to rely on any third party and in seeing an image on the film when you take it out of the tank." Also VERY true!

Edited by Saleen219 - 28 November 2008 at 09:07
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Wētāpunga View Drop Down
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Joined: 02 September 2007
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Posts: 6560 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Wētāpunga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 November 2008 at 00:45
Thanks for this Bob, I would certainly benefit from more small essays on film photography like this... (Digital photography is much better for self-tutoring.)

With film I still feel like I'm making a lot of small mistakes that are just compromising the final results.
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vitor View Drop Down
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Posts: 2008 		Post Options Post Options   Quote vitor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 October 2008 at 15:54
I should add that you should use gloves when handling film and chemicals.
When handling film you avoid putting finger marks on the emulsion, that grease will affect the development and later the scanning or projection of the negatives.
When handling chemicals, you avoid putting those in direct contact with you're skin.
I recommend also to use protective glasses to avoid unpredictable accidents, like taking your hand to the eye or worst spill from chemicals reaching your eyes.
Use an ??apron?? to avoid spilling your clothes.

Never develop film on the kitchen or near food, never eat while doing it
vitorfonseca.com|tech
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dd001 View Drop Down
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Joined: 16 August 2006
Country: France
Location: Bordeaux
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Posts: 2140 		Post Options Post Options   Quote dd001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 October 2008 at 13:02
I missed that post! Thanks Bob, I am actually thinking of doing it, so perfect timing!
David - My Gallery
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Maffe View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 November 2005
Country: Sweden
Location: Sweden
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Posts: 12345 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Maffe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 October 2008 at 10:49
Thanks for this excellent guide
Flickr
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