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A Mount macro lens recommendations

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QuietOC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote QuietOC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2019 at 17:56
Originally posted by Uncle Dave Uncle Dave wrote:

Hi, I am new to this forum so any help would be welcomed.

I have a Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro mounted to my Sony A99ii, but I am looking to get even closer. I do mainly outdoor work, so a fast shutter speed is critical. Any firsthand experience and recommendations would be appreciated.

There is no getting around the depth-of-field, brightness and magnification tradeoffs except by adding additional light.

Is your Tamron 90mm one of the D/ADI compatible versions (272E, F004, or F017S)?

The D information gets properly adjusted by 8-pin chipped generic teleconverters. This would get you the most effective SteadyShot. All other methods won't. The MC7 2X teleconverters are pretty decent.

I use extension tubes fairly often and have some achromats that I have yet to try. The magnification of extension is proportional to the focal length used, so don't expect a lot when using a 90mm, but it will certainly work. Internal focus lenses act weird with extensions too.

Edited by QuietOC - 05 June 2019 at 18:00
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macronut View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote macronut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2019 at 18:40
The original poster should read dyxum thread titled Extreme Macro. A lot of good info and pictures there. It grew until the mods broke it up into three continuous threads. I donít have a link handy.

I remember now, it was Pavel that used the Raynox 5320. Also I think another member used a cheaper model Raynox and a small extension tube on a 90mm Tamron. Probably the Same lens as the one in question on this thread. So the OP really should read it through.   I think the tamron was mentioned in part two of the thread.
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Uncle Dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Uncle Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2019 at 21:12
Thanks, everyone, for the great information and quick responses! I will look up the thread mentioned above and see what combinations might work for me. Right now it looks like a diopter and maybe extension tubes might be my best bet.

I should also add that automatic focus is not critical and I do use a third-party ring flash.

Any additional info or suggestions are always welcomed, and thank you again!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote stiuskr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2019 at 00:47
Well, you are using the a99II, you can crop to your hearts content with that resolution monster.
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a99M2 a99 a77 a700 KM7D|Min24/2.8 Min35/2 So50/1.4 So50/2.8 Min85/1.4G Tam90/2.8 Tam180/3.5|Tam17-50 CZ24-70G2 KM28-75D So70-200G1 So70-300G So70-400G1| SonyF60 AD200R2
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Post Options Post Options   Quote gigo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2019 at 00:47
Congratulations on the start of a long journey to find the optimal your macro solution.

Actually there is another place to stop by. The standard zoom, which is a kit lens, and the reverse adapter are a good combination of cost performance. Coarse movement with the zoom and fine movement with the focus ring make it easy to use.

The problem is that for A-Mount is difficult to obtain even in Japan.


Also, 3x-1x has a mounting groove for the genuine macro flash on the lens barrel. Third-party products can not be used because they do not have enough distance from the subject because they will be attached to the filter thread.

This is the optimized solution I have reached, a modernized 3x-1x macro zoom kit.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote stiuskr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2019 at 00:53
Extreme macro Pt 1

Extreme macro Pt 2

Extreme macro Pt 3

These are old topics so most of the images are missing due to broken links but the relevant info is still there.
Rob Suits Jr.
a99M2 a99 a77 a700 KM7D|Min24/2.8 Min35/2 So50/1.4 So50/2.8 Min85/1.4G Tam90/2.8 Tam180/3.5|Tam17-50 CZ24-70G2 KM28-75D So70-200G1 So70-300G So70-400G1| SonyF60 AD200R2
 



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Post Options Post Options   Quote gigo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2019 at 01:10
Originally posted by stiuskr stiuskr wrote:

Well, you are using the a99II, you can crop to your hearts content with that resolution monster.

I also thought so a few years ago. Until I buy a 4K monitor. There is almost no room for trimming as this is almost equal to 1x pixel. Over the years I will buy an 8K monitor. (In Japan, 8K broadcasting has started) Obviously there are not enough pixels.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Uncle Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2019 at 03:39
Lilac blooms. Tamron 90mm, cropped.





Edited by Uncle Dave - 09 June 2019 at 04:41
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Miranda F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 June 2019 at 08:13
When you (the OP) say you actually want to get the subject closer to the lens, do you really mean closer, or do you just want higher magnification?
Most of the extreme macro solutions result in the lens front-to-subject distance becoming very small, with lighting being difficult and DOF being very narrow, so either you accept microscopic DOF, time exposure and diffraction loss at high F nos, or you need focus stacking.

If you only want to get greater magnification with a Tamron 90mm AF macro lens, there are two solutions which have worked for me.

1) stick a reversed MF 50mm lens on the front as suggested earlier. The smallest and lightest one I've found is the Miranda/cosina PK-fit 50mm f2, and this works well. Expect around 40mm working distance, and very little loss of effective aperture (MF lens should be wide open). I showed the eye of a needle on one of the 50-fun events a few years ago, using a much older Miranda 50mm lens reversed on a bellows (one lens only), but reversing a 50 on another lens works well. Old MF 135mm f2.8 lenses make a better base for this because they have a rigid front screw thread, and both are very cheap and work well.

2) use a 2x TC. I have found the 8-pin Kenko MC7 works well with the screw-drive Tamron 90mm f2.8. This loses you two stops, but gets you an increased working distance that is good for butterflies (a kind of cheapo version of the 180mm macro). Note the smaller MC4 works well in the centre but loses resolution at the edges, but the MC7 is sharp into the corners with the Tamron 272E.

I'm not sure that simply adding an extension with the Tamron is going to work as well as it did with the original double-Gauss 52 model that was designed for that (and sold with one - I have both), and the modern AF models have a deeply recessed front element which isn't ideal for macro.
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Uncle Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 June 2019 at 16:27
Thanks for these detailed suggestions!

My hope is to get higher magnification, not necessarily getting physically closer to the subject. I don't really need "extreme" macro, as I am aware of the DOF and light tradeoffs, and I intend to shoot outdoors handheld.

For now, I have ordered a set of Kenko extension tubes to try out, and will definitely consider trying a 2x teleconverter, but I am wary of the light loss.

I am open to reversing a lens, but this is a new concept to me and I can't afford to spend too much.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Miranda F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 June 2019 at 23:37
How does $15 sound? A Miranda like mine is on ebay
You need a 49-55mm thread converter (to fit a 55mm filter on a 49mm lens) and a 55mm male-to-male thread reverser. Both cheap, but get metal ones if possible (the plastic ones are fragile - often 3D printed from cheap materials).

Or there's a Sears one for $25 on ebay US from seller norm1968blueblue, plus you get strong sunstars from the straight-sided iris.

Re TCs, yes you lose 2 stops of light but you would probably need f5.6-f8 anyway to get a decent DOF so you aren't losing anything (Af should still work).

Edited by Miranda F - 09 June 2019 at 23:43
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote wetapunga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 June 2019 at 05:08
Originally posted by macronut macronut wrote:

Best place to start is extension tubes or diopter.   Cheap and simple.

Also nobody has specifically mentioned the Raynox diopter. Iíve often thought about buying one.


I use Raynox adapters- the now out-of-production microscope set. They are an example of an achromatic adapter I alluded to above.
It is impossible to mount the Raynox adaptor with a macro flash like the Sony macro-twin flash. I got around this by making my own adaptor out of a couple of stepup rings and 55mm filter rings.
The other issue is mine did vignette badly on my full-frame cameraís, but worked perfectly with the APS-C ones.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote balacau Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 10:18
I'm glad to see the Mitakon 20mm f2 macro lens was mentioned previously. I recently took delivery of one of these as it was another open box purchase so got it at a reduced price. I have tried to use it with only some success. I aim to use this for ice crystal and perhaps some other intricate detail images but I'll only be usi g the lens tripod mounted and using long exposure images as I've given up on the idea of extra lighting. It isn't a lens that will focus to infinity so if the op is looking for a dual purpose lens, it's not the tool for the job.
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