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A new film challenge for late 2020 - discussion

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addy landzaat View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote addy landzaat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 August 2020 at 15:31
Discontinued CHS 25 - but according to Adox you can just use standard Rodinal to develop it and they add CHS 25 "Can be developed in almost any B/W developer". No need for a special process (unlike CMS 20).

You can use CHS 25 in your Alpha camera first. Problem solved, isn't it?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote waldo_posth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 August 2020 at 17:36
Too late - my Alpha-mount camera is already on sale on fleabay!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 August 2020 at 18:21
Originally posted by waldo_posth waldo_posth wrote:

Too late - my Alpha-mount camera is already on sale on fleabay!


You better get it loaded and shot before it sells then !
I suggest a 24 exposure roll .
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addy landzaat View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote addy landzaat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 August 2020 at 19:04
Originally posted by waldo_posth waldo_posth wrote:

Too late - my Alpha-mount camera is already on sale on fleabay!
Sorry


What will you use with the Adox film?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote onsplekkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2020 at 11:06
Disaster stroke. When I got my 3 films developed it turned out that all were over exposed, so probably a light-leak in my Minolta XG-M
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2020 at 11:29
Originally posted by onsplekkie onsplekkie wrote:

Disaster stroke. When I got my 3 films developed it turned out that all were over exposed, so probably a light-leak in my Minolta XG-M


Light leaks are generally streaks of light hitting parts of the film .
Either showing up as white flashes / bands on B&W or orange flashes / bands on colour .

The the whole image is over exposed ( evenly ) that suggests over exposure when taken .
Either the aperture of the lens is sticking or you haven't set the correct ISO so the meter gives a wrong reading .
If the last time you has ISO 100 film in it and have loaded with ISO 400 this time , all shots will be two stops over exposed .

Remember , most manual focus cameras done read the DX coding on the cassette , unlike AF cameras .

Please post a couple if sample images to confirm the fault .
If a light seal has perished on the back it's easy to replace .
Or a temporary solution it to deal around the door with electrical insulation tape .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote alpha_in_exile Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2020 at 13:47
Originally posted by neilt3 neilt3 wrote:

Originally posted by onsplekkie onsplekkie wrote:

Disaster stroke. When I got my 3 films developed it turned out that all were over exposed, so probably a light-leak in my Minolta XG-M


Light leaks are generally streaks of light hitting parts of the film .
Either showing up as white flashes / bands on B&W or orange flashes / bands on colour .

The the whole image is over exposed ( evenly ) that suggests over exposure when taken.


I don't remember much about XG-M cameras, but could an old weak battery give inaccurate metering, as happens on old Minolta SRTs?
-- Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2020 at 14:07
It shouldn't make any difference .
A weak battery voltage might have effected the readings on older camera , but I think the electronics of these newer camera were quite happy with it .
If the power dropped below a certain level , the shutter does not fire at all .
It's all tied together being an electronic camera rather than a mechanical camera with a battery powered meter .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote pegelli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2020 at 14:09
That's too bad Maarten, did you cross check the camera meter vs. one of your digital bodies? I agree with Matt and Neil it's more likely a meter/aperture error than a light leak. Light leaks give uneven fogging and streaks. One easy check is looking at the perforation sides of the negatives. If it's a light leak these should show some density (streaks/fogging) as well, if not the camera is still ok and it's a meter error or the aperture not closing correctly.

Other thing to check might be the shutter speeds, if the lubrication of the shutter mechanism/curtains became sticky the times may be sluggish as well, leading to overexposure by longer shutter times vs. what you set.

Edited by pegelli - 04 October 2020 at 14:22
Mind the bandwidth of others, don't link pictures larger then 1024 wide or 960 pix high, see here
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Post Options Post Options   Quote addy landzaat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2020 at 14:09
Does the lens stop down correctly?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote onsplekkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2020 at 18:12
THNX for the feedback. will look into lens aperture stop down. Might be a issue there.
"take life as it is, not as you want it to be"
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