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a580 problem

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rastapartaman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote rastapartaman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 March 2015 at 01:48
Does it do the same if on live view or focus live view? If it doesn't might be related with the eye start sensor.
If you have restarted the camera to factory defaults it will be active again.
Don't think, Just click it!!

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dca1213 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dca1213 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 March 2015 at 12:42
Thanks for the suggestions, I will try cleaning the contacts.
Dennis
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Post Options Post Options   Quote kerrath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 March 2015 at 20:15
My A580 had what I am thinking is a similar problem. It was powering off sometimes when the shutter button was depressed all or partway, and sometimes just when holding it by the right grip and no other support. Additionally, when rolling the selector wheel, it would leap in large chunks and then go all the way back to 30s, or an inappropriate aperture. I sent it under extended warranty from B&H 3 times for repair.

After the third time, it seems fixed, but between the A57 and A77 I acquired since, I haven't really used the A580. The last two times they repaired/replaced the switch assembly. When the problem first appeared, I cleaned it with alcohol as best I could without disassembling it, and it seemed to be temporarily improved.
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dca1213 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dca1213 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 March 2015 at 22:42
Originally posted by kerrath kerrath wrote:

My A580 had what I am thinking is a similar problem. It was powering off sometimes when the shutter button was depressed all or partway, and sometimes just when holding it by the right grip and no other support. Additionally, when rolling the selector wheel, it would leap in large chunks and then go all the way back to 30s, or an inappropriate aperture. I sent it under extended warranty from B&H 3 times for repair.

After the third time, it seems fixed, but between the A57 and A77 I acquired since, I haven't really used the A580. The last two times they repaired/replaced the switch assembly. When the problem first appeared, I cleaned it with alcohol as best I could without disassembling it, and it seemed to be temporarily improved.



Yes very similar. I have ordered a can of contact cleaner and I am going to try that.

I grew up the son of a TV repairman and he always had that on hand to shoot into pots and TV tuners. I should have paid closer attention, might come in handy for my electric guitars and amps as well!

Thanks for sending your response and experience. I hope I do not need to get repairs done, I am close to the point where the repair is more expensive than the camera is worth I think. I really love the a580's, great sensor.
Dennis
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Post Options Post Options   Quote robberly12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2015 at 15:29
Originally posted by kerrath kerrath wrote:

My A580 had what I am thinking is a similar problem. It was powering off sometimes when the shutter button was depressed all or partway, and sometimes just when holding it by the right grip and no other support. Additionally, when rolling the selector wheel, it would leap in large chunks and then go all the way back to 30s, or an inappropriate aperture. I sent it under extended warranty from B&H 3 times for repair.

After the third time, it seems fixed, but between the A57 and A77 I acquired since, I haven't really used the A580. The last two times they repaired/replaced the switch assembly. When the problem first appeared, I cleaned it with alcohol as best I could without disassembling it, and it seemed to be temporarily improved.


A group of Flickr users have reported similar problems here.

Fortunately, my A580 has never suffered from this.

Ron
Sony A330, A580(2), A77/77ii, 35 F1.8, 18-135, 70-400G, 500 F8 Reflex, Sigma 18-250, 105 & 180 Macros, Tamrons include: 60 Macro, 10-24, 28-75 F2.8, 70-300 USD, 70-200 F2.8, 150-600
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pirate Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2015 at 15:57
Ahoy!

This sounds very much like the skipping control wheel phenomenon that the A700 and some A850/A900 models developed. If this is the case, then the fix is very simple to do and also cheap.

See my post here and those that follow. Both Eclipse and lens cleaning fluids are known to correct the issue. Electrical contact spray may leave a residue whereas the other two evaporate within about 10 seconds or less.
 



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Post Options Post Options   Quote dca1213 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2015 at 16:34
Originally posted by robberly12 robberly12 wrote:


A group of Flickr users have reported similar problems here.

Fortunately, my A580 has never suffered from this.

Ron


Thanks for the link, I am not alone.
Dennis
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dca1213 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dca1213 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2015 at 16:58
Originally posted by Pirate Pirate wrote:

Ahoy!

This sounds very much like the skipping control wheel phenomenon that the A700 and some A850/A900 models developed. If this is the case, then the fix is very simple to do and also cheap.

See my post here and those that follow. Both Eclipse and lens cleaning fluids are known to correct the issue. Electrical contact spray may leave a residue whereas the other two evaporate within about 10 seconds or less.


Thanks Pirate. The cleaner I ordered states that is evaporates and leaves no residue, its WD-40 300083 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray, it has a built in straw for stream of fan shaped spray. I'll report back after I try it out.
Dennis
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dca1213 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 March 2015 at 18:41
Well I am happy to report that the electrical contact cleaner appears to have done the trick.

My procedure was to remove the battery and liberally spray the cleaner on the on/off switch and shutter button, I worked the switch back and forth rapidly and depressed the shutter button numerous times, I then sprayed into the control dial and spun it back and forth a few times. I gave it about an hour to evaporate, replaced the battery, switched it on and it was back to working normally, at least for now.

I still need to do the second body.
Dennis
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pirate Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 March 2015 at 21:44
Originally posted by dca1213 dca1213 wrote:

Well I am happy to report that the electrical contact cleaner appears to have done the trick.

My procedure was to remove the battery and liberally spray the cleaner on the on/off switch and shutter button, I worked the switch back and forth rapidly and depressed the shutter button numerous times, I then sprayed into the control dial and spun it back and forth a few times. I gave it about an hour to evaporate, replaced the battery, switched it on and it was back to working normally, at least for now.

I still need to do the second body.

Ahoy!

Well there's another happy ending that didn't require a $100.00 bill just for an inspection or the need for a live organ donation to pay for it as the solution to this and no doubt other similar issues that can be done using a do-it-yourself (DIY) method. Just a suggestion for you, I would advise that unless you do your own sensor cleaning (wet and dry) and you have the appropriate Eclipse fluid, swabs, loupe and sensor pen, then the Eclipse fluid also works a treat for the skipping control wheel phenomenon, though should you ever use both a felt padded LP-1 Lenspen lens cleaner (or the current version Lenspen Elite and the lens cleaning fluid, then this is also a fluid you can use to rectify the skipping control wheel phenomenon (symptom: when turning the control dial, the menu's basically 'run away' and you have no control) and it's usually caused by either/or a build-up of fine dust/fibres that attach themselves to the control wheel dial or the electrical contacts can become tarnished thereby interfering with the control wheel input (much the same as both lens contacts on the lens and/or the connecting pins in the lens camera housing, though a rub of the pins is normally done using a very fine abrasive or a cloth with some alcohol based fluid, though for the lens contacts, due to their construction (they're usually recessed with a slightly raised edge) you can use a matchstick head, very fine abrasive or even scoring with pin or paperclip to remove any film build-up and to create a metal on metal connection. I'm sure there are other methods, but you'll not damage the lens contacts at all (these are battlefield first aid fixes).

If you clean your own sensor (wet or dry) you really must have a magnifying loupe as otherwise you can't see if the ingress has been removed or simply shifted to another area of the sensor, so for anyone who says you don't need it, then I would strongly disagree as apart from having stated the obvious, when you send your camera body in to have the sensor pro cleaned, they will always use a loupe for the exact same reasons, else how can anyone know that the sensor has been properly cleaned? There are various types of sensor ingress which can dictate what cleaning type is necessary, though even after wet cleaning, a quick tidy-up using the sensor pen is recommended though not always necessary.

I know I've gone off on a tangent, but I've only done so because as you've now discovered, some things can be done yourself with minimal cost and will save you hundreds $$ over time if you factor in the cost of shipping and the actual cost of the cleaning service which I would think is in the range of USD $75.00 a time, so you do the math. It's one Achilles heel of using a DSLR, and even after a pro-clean, it could become contaminated after one or two lens changes, though the environment (such as very high humidity and fine dust/sand - Florida and Las Vegas/desert for example), should be noted as high humidity can cause sticky ingress and dusty/desert/dry tends to cause fine ingress. The former would likely need a wet clean and the latter either a dry clean or simply a blower, though this is where the loupe comes into it's own so you can visually check that it's been removed and is properly clean for continued use.

If you don't clean your own sensor, assuming SLT sensors can be touched (I don't use the SLT system and will not assume anything with respect to sensor cleaning), I wrote a 'how to' regarding cleaning your own sensor using both wet/dry methods which you can read here. You might also note that it was also changed by the MOD to become a 'sticky' so others could benefit should they also want to follow the advice posted. I would also recommend you read both pages of the thread linked to so you get a broad overview from others that followed my 'how to' post, and you can make your own mind up from that. If I could, I would remove my remarks about viewfinder cleaning as I've learned since that touching it will leave it marked and cannot be cleaned (unless this has been changed and products are available for this purpose now).

You can buy Eclipse sensor fluid, swabs and lens cleaning fluid from DigiPad, though you might find a supplier locally for a lower price. An overview of the different methods can be seen here. In the past there was both Eclipse and Eclipse II fluids depending on how the sensor was manufactured and materials used, but the fluid formula was changed and now there's a single Eclipse fluid for all sensor types.

Now, I'm going off on a second tangent, I have family in NJ, and during a visit many years ago, we went to Orange County Choppers (OCC) and we got a photo opportunity with Paul Jr, Mikey and Rick Petko, plus we went into their local Main St. store where we got to see many of the bikes they built in the early years when American Chopper was screened in the UK and they're absolutely stunning (the Black Widow bike caught my eye), so to see and touch them was a great thrill plus I took some images of them with my (new) Alpha A100 and SAL 18-70mm DT kit lens, but they came out far better than expected. NYC is insane in downtown Manhattan at/around Times Square, Battery Park and the NYSE and a lot of very co-operative police officers for photo ops, and as a visitor, the experience was more than I could take in. Both Ellis and Liberty Islands were great experiences as was ground zero which was just a huge building site, and the holes in the ground were beyond comprehension in terms of size and I have only a few images posted via Fluidr which is linked to Flickr (you need to get towards the end of the images posted). It was a surreal and humbling experience and my eyes became rather moist.

My apologies for the rambling post, but if nothing else, it might give you sufficient info regarding sensor cleaning and the methods and kit available albeit I kinda went off the beaten track, and hopefully you may find the info and references useful.

I'm happy that the original issue that you posted about has been sorted.
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dca1213 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dca1213 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 March 2015 at 22:48
Well Pirate thanks for your post. I don't clean my sensors and I don't have any SLT cameras but I appreciate your contribution.
Dennis
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Zimba Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 April 2015 at 01:55
Originally posted by dca1213 dca1213 wrote:

Well I am happy to report that the electrical contact cleaner appears to have done the trick.

My procedure was to remove the battery and liberally spray the cleaner on the on/off switch and shutter button, I worked the switch back and forth rapidly and depressed the shutter button numerous times, I then sprayed into the control dial and spun it back and forth a few times. I gave it about an hour to evaporate, replaced the battery, switched it on and it was back to working normally, at least for now.

I still need to do the second body.


I have had the same problem - i tried the above and initially all my buttons ceased working. Thankfully they all work now except the shutter button which still doesn't. I can trigger the shutter with the vertical grip or cable release. Any other suggestions???? Thanks in advance.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote robberly12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 September 2015 at 21:57
My A580 recently started doing a version of this (similar to kerrath's experience above). The LCD would intermittently "blink off" and do the sensor cleaning sound when I did a half-push on the shutter button. It was clear that this was temporarily interrupting power to the body. It would immediately return to full function without any action from me, and usually work fine after that. This occurs with all lenses.

It had been getting worse so I decided to try Dennis's (dca1213) procedure above. I removed the battery and shot some electronic contact cleaner into the shutter button, and repeatedly worked the shutter and on-off switch. This seemed to temporarily reduce the frequency of the problem, but it is now occurring fairly regularly again. It most often occurs on the first shutter push after power-on, and is rare after that.

It's pretty clear to me that a repair is in order, if I want to continue to use it. While my A77 is more than adequate for most of my photo work, I much prefer the A580's optical viewfinder for photographing birds in flight. So I'm thinking of sending it in to KEH for a repair. I think the on-off/shutter switches need to be replaced.

I'm a little torn about whether it's worth the repair, but would be willing to pay KEH's $215 flat-rate charge if that truly fixed it. It's in great shape otherwise.

Any experiences that others are having with this type of problem on the A580 or feedback on using KEH for repairs would be appreciated.

Ron

Edited by robberly12 - 28 September 2015 at 22:00
Sony A330, A580(2), A77/77ii, 35 F1.8, 18-135, 70-400G, 500 F8 Reflex, Sigma 18-250, 105 & 180 Macros, Tamrons include: 60 Macro, 10-24, 28-75 F2.8, 70-300 USD, 70-200 F2.8, 150-600
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Basil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 September 2015 at 22:14
Can I suggest contacting United Camera Repair for an alternative quote? I have had very good service from them the 2 times I have used them and their rates seem to be even more reasonable than KEH.
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