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Comparing many lenses on a7ii

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Post Options Post Options   Quote beeton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Comparing many lenses on a7ii
    Posted: 10 January 2020 at 18:53
Soon, as time permits, I will be shooting some comparisons between various lenses on my A7ii with and without an la-ea4.
I'm doing this to find some less expensive but fully acceptable alternatives to the FE lenses as they are darn expensive for casual shooting (IMO) and reducing the weight of my camera bag.
Some backgound: I pared down many lenses and settled on an RX10M3 plus an a6000 a few seasons back. The RX10M3 has an amazing range (24-600) and even doubled, the lens is super sharp. This allowed me to sell off my Sigma 175-500, not a stellar lens but useful albeit heavy. The a6000 was for my pocket and telescope. The A6000 moved out for an a7 which moved out for an a7ii (wanted ibis to allow for more non stabilized lens choices). My a77ii went to my son.
The Rx10iii lens is superb but while in Massachusetts, I took similar images with the RX10m3 and A7m2. The a7m2 had an la-ea4 and older Tamron 28-200 DI A03 (not the old, lumpy versions, the more recent-non stabilized version).
I found the RX images sharper with better contrast and saturation but at 100%, the FF images had so much better detail in the waves and clouds. Some cleaning up with DXO11 really improved the FF images taken with the Tamron to the point where they are almost on-pa with the RX images (but not quite as sharp in the corners).
So, to make things easier, I picked up an FE 24-240 and a 70-300 G (4.5).
I also have some more lenses coming: A Vivitar 100-400 (non APO I think), Sigma 70-210 f2.8, 24-50 Maxxum and a Maxxum 500 reflex... let's put the last one aside.

For the wider angle, I plan to shoot with an E 16mm (crop)24 maxxum, 24-50 maxxum and 24-240 (FF).
For the mid and tele, I plan to shoot at 70-200 for the 4 lenses and also beyond 200 for those lenses that have the extra reach.
I would like to compare, with real world images (of a local barn) how these lenses stack up out of camera and with some reasonable processing.
Much can be said about buying native lenses but when budgets don't allow (or justification isn't there) avoiding a $1200 optic for a $200 optic will be a better choice for many if they are willing to spend a few minutes with appropriate software.

More detailed results to follow but preliminary tests showed that:
The FE 28-70 is marginally better than the 28-200 Tamron, especially in the edges and the Tamron has strong vignetting at 28. Post processing evens things out.
The E 16 on crop does not match the 24-240 for sharpness across the field.
The 24-240 and 70-300 G are fairly close across the board but I have had more missed-focus shots with the 70-300.The 24-240 on crop brought up to +/- 300mm is comparable to the 70-300 G at 300mm. ALL images taken at the same ISO and F stops.

As for Ultra wide. I can't justify the FE lenses so I use a Tokina 11-16. Even on crop, a very sharp lens and better than the Sigma 10-20 (4) and way better than the Sony 11-18, again IMO.

See you in a few weeks but if you have compared older zooms on an laea4 against any modern versions, pipe in please.
 



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Cucoo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Cucoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 February 2020 at 12:07
Looking forward to some results!

I've compared the FE 28-70 to the good old 'secret handshake' 28-135mm myself and while my copy of the FE 28-70 might have been especially bad, it was so bad even stopped down hard that I sold it again the same evening. The 28-135mm at F11 is really sharp, if it wasn't for the annoying lag when the Laea4 stops it down it would see much more use.

For wide angle I'm using the Konica Minolta 17-35 2.8, same problem with aperture lag since this also needs F11 for best performance.

All in all handling of many lenses on the Laea4 is so annoying that I'm slowly thinning out my a-mount collection. I guess this is just what Sony intended... I'm still shooting film with a Minolta 9000 once in a while, so I'll keep a few for that.
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beeton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote beeton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 February 2020 at 13:25
I haven't had any issues with the fe 28-20. I am not certain the FE 28-70 handles micro-focus adjust (the 24-240 does not allow for micofocus) but look into your menus as you may have a microfocus maladjustment.
The 28-135 Minolta I had and disliked due to weight and overall magenta tone.
I don't find lag issues with la-ea4 myself but I don't shoot sports or fast moving subjects so could be my use.
I have never used the 17-35 f2.8 Minolta.
I do use the Tokina 11-16 2.8 and it is sharp open but some CA (which is easy to clean up).
I will be interested in comparing the PZ16-50 on crop compared to the FE 28-70 as the PZ is very compact and having one less lumpy lens will be useful on trips.
Mind you, I have teh 24-240 which is nice enough. Much depends on what type of trip and how much you want to drag with you.
The RX10iii though, nice lens and good enough for 95% of my shots but for water, sky, subtle shades, the FF sensor is better.

Will add some results when weather warms up.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Cucoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 February 2020 at 13:51
With "lag" I mean the noticeable delay when pressing the shutter button, it takes the adapter maybe half a second to close the aperture to the stop you dialed in. It's annoying me a lot with smaller apertures, and I mainly shoot landscapes, not even sports or other action.

Regarding the 28-70, I've already sold it so I can't test the micro adjustment. To be clear, my copy was sharp when stopped down and corners got better too, but I just wasn't pleased with the overall quality. I didn't see why I should keep it with lots of better glass in my cabinet
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Post Options Post Options   Quote QuietOC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 February 2020 at 14:49
The micro adjustment settings on E-mount bodies is only for the LA-EA2 and LA-EA4. The only other that I know of is the Samyang AF FE lenses have an AF adjustment setting via their dock.

I may have an exceptionally good FE 28-70 OSS--it is my only FE zoom so far.

Comparing zooms is tedious work, and results are often mixed. I am sure the Sony FE options are the best for overall performance.

Edited by QuietOC - 17 February 2020 at 14:57
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Post Options Post Options   Quote addy landzaat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 February 2020 at 06:36
It seems the FE 28-70 is a typical kitzoom: the optical design is good enough but it is let down by sample variation due to manufacturing standards.

Lets see the other lenses you mentioned:
Tamron 28-200: it is a compromised old superzoom, I am impressed it behaved like it did.
Sony FE 24-240: all reviews say that it is fine for a superzoom but it is not impressive.
Sony 70-300G: Is this the A-mount version? I would expect it to be better then the super zoom. Did you try micro-adjust?

I do not understand why you bother with APS-C lenses. They shine on APS-C cameras, but on your 24mp FF cameras they give a relative low pixelcount. Especially the 16mm would not on my shopping list as it is not highly regarded, just get the FE 28/2.

You looking so much at APS-C lenses, did you consider going back to something like the A6100 or (if you really want IBIS) the A6500/A6600?

The Konica Minolta 17-35/2.8-4 is a nice enough lens with little real flaws - it is a bargain! And at least you use your sensors real estate.
Why not follow me on Instagram? @Addy_101
 



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Post Options Post Options   Quote Cucoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 February 2020 at 07:22
Originally posted by addy landzaat addy landzaat wrote:

The Konica Minolta 17-35/2.8-4 is a nice enough lens with little real flaws - it is a bargain! And at least you use your sensors real estate.

It really is a nice lens, I got mine for 120 I think and it's definitely worth that, since anything wider than 24mm doesn't get much real use anyways IMO. It's fine dealing with a big old DSLR lens plus adapter on an a7ii once in a while with that kind of savings.

Only real flaw as far as I'm concerned is the ridiculously bad ghosting resistance.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote beeton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 February 2020 at 12:30
I agree with the FE 28-70. Decent lens but not spectacular.
Tamron 28-200...it does depend on the version. I had one of the older, rubber covered ones and did not like it. The newer, smaller xr-di seem decent, at least my copies. There is noticeable vignetting at 28 but that clears up.

The FE24-240, convenient zoom range and performs well but could a bit more aperture (imo). Mind you, that would add more weight.
The 70-300 G (Alpha mount) I have to test more closely against the super zooms.
I do seem to get more missed focus shots with this one compared to the 24-240. Could be cold-induced hand shaking and IBIS can only help so much.

Why bother with the APS lenses? Because I have them. I did have a 6000 (fine camera) but sold that to finance he FF.
The 16mm and PZ 16-50 are very convenient walk-around lenses when I don't want something heavier or larger as the FE lenses are hardly pocket sized.

I can't justify the purchase of a FE 24, 35 or thereabouts lens as I won't use it enough but either of the mentioned E lenses are convenient and the PZ has very good image quality.

Those 2 were more to compare against the 24 Maxxum and 24-50 Maxxum. If the IQ of the Maxxum lenses are similar to the IQ of FE mount lenses, and I have an la-ea4 anyways, why purchase a similar FE lens?

The lower pixel count is a minus but if the optic has better resolution, less distortion, that will still amount to a better image than a higher pixel count with a mediocre optic.

I was interested in looking at the FE CZ 24-70 (4) but reviews left me wondering if spending $800 (cdn) was really worth it.
So would an $800 lens with mediocre performance at 24mm be better than a similar performing lens that I have in my stable for free?

Then again, DXO11 does wonders and as almost any lens will have some issues (I took an image with the CZ (24mm?... Darned if I can recall the lens but it was an MF) and it performed really, really well but even then, enough to justify a grand for another lens?

If I were to be stuck with only the Tamron 28-200 Dr xi and a copy of DXO11, I would be pretty pleased with the PP images for most situations.

That's part of why i am doing this. If a very good lens can provide a very good IQ and I can improve that with some tweaking, am I really better off spending another $1000 (cdn) on a lens that might still need some tweaking?

Ultimately, it will come down to 2 lenses (maybe a 24-70 f2.8 and 70-300 G) with the 24-240 as an all-in one for trips and one E mount for compactness.


Time will tell.


Edited by beeton - 20 February 2020 at 12:42
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Post Options Post Options   Quote QuietOC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 February 2020 at 13:14
I just got a second FE 28-70mm OSS with an A7III. It is also very good. Maybe there was a bad batch sometime in the past.

The A7III is very nice, though I am a bit lost in the expanded menu system. The A68 was the only camera I've had with the revised menus, and it didn't have near so many options. I've been using only 2014 Sony cameras models for a while now.

There is likely more variation with all-in-one zooms. I tried some $10 Vivitar 28-200 at my local store, and found it surprisingly sharp. I just returned a Tamron 24-135 that was not. My reading of reviews and some brief time with one makes me think the Sony FE 24-240 OSS might be the best one. I was impressed by its AF speed on the A7II. It seemed faster than the A-mount 70-300G SSM II on the A77II.

I tried that SSM II with both of the Sony adapters on my A7II. I didn't see much reason to keep it. The Tamron SP 70-300mm F4-5.6 VC USD works better with the Metabones IV. I have a Canon EF 70-300mm IS II USM coming to try. That lens is supposed to be very quick.

The Samyang AF 24mm F2.8 is much better than the Sony E 16mm F2.8 or the Minolta AF 24mm F2.8. Their 35mm F2.8 is even better.

I don't find 10 MP too much of a limitation, but the E 20mm F2.8 might be the only APS-C limited lens I keep.

Edited by QuietOC - 20 February 2020 at 13:21
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