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CuriousOne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CuriousOne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2012 at 21:21
More you register online, more traces you leave. Personally, I dislike that. So, this is why I avoid facebook, flicker, pbase, twitter and so on. If public demands for full-res pictures, I can upload them with ease. Just I don't think there are any fine details that average viewer would like to see.

 



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CuriousOne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CuriousOne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 November 2012 at 18:53
I've redesigned mount for this light. I've removed tripod mount from old film camera and mounted onto this light.

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Nappa View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Nappa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 February 2013 at 20:34
Vehicle side fitted tripod/rig.

I think I've done this right!Dyxum camera rig link

The rig was made for a video camera but I see no reason why it should not be ideal for photography.
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janders1957 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote janders1957 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2014 at 20:38
I built a macro slide setup for my brother (Dave Anderson here) using a Nikon microscope stage, and set up to be driven via stepper motor. He's got plans for a very nice controller, when he has time to build it.

I don't have time, and electronics isn't exactly my thing. After a lot of pondering and weighing many design approaches, I came up with the slide featured below.

Based on an ultra precision ground lead screw (25 millionth's accuracy) and Rexroth precision linear slides, I was pondering how to index. I have a 1" travel micrometer head that reads directly to .0001. But that's pretty fine. Looking at gears and gear reductions, possibly using some sort of ratchet setup to index a set amount each time, when I came up with the idea of using a one-way clutch on the end of the lead screw.
This looks like a needle bearing, but transfers rotary motion in one direction while slipping in the other. Voila!

Here is a side view of the overall setup. It's a Vivitar bellows, modified. I cut it up and bolted to a base, indexing to insure the axis of the bellows is parallel to the base.


MacroRail-1 by janders1957, on Flickr


This view shows the indexing. Not visible, is a stop pin that the handle rests on. Each threaded hole is 3.6 degrees and provies .0005 linear motion. Set the stop to the desired travel. Lift and let go, take the shot, repeat! I can index directly to .005, larger distances by some combination of lower indexes (.007 would be .0035 twice)
How do I back it up? I slide the lever off the end of the screw, retract the adjustable stop screw, and place the lever back on the shaft inverted. The slot on the front clears the fixed stop screw, allowing me to wind it back. I set this up in my mill with an indicator, and it's dead on, .0005 index, no accumulated error over .030 travel.


MacroRail-2 by janders1957, on Flickr

This view looks down the end of the tube, you can see the end of the lead screw, the nut and the carrier clamped to it. A short spacer takes up the distance from the carrier to the slide above.


MacroRail-3 by janders1957, on Flickr

The indexing plate can be removed and replaced with one fitted for a stepper motor come the day I can sweet talk my brother into building me the digital controller. But, this requires no batteries and is foolproof. In a rush to finish this as in mere weeks, I move to Australia and it will be a long time before I have a machine shop at my disposal again. Not the best job of photographing this, but, in a rush. Now to take it back apart for black anodize!

Is this overkill? I'd have to admit it is. But I have always had a thing for what I think of as elegant mechanical solutions.... :)

EDIT: Took a bit to figure out I was grabbing the wrong code, text was grayed out making it hard to read and leading me to believe there was no choice available...

Edited by janders1957 - 04 March 2014 at 02:14
Jon
A700, A500IR, 18-55, 24-105, 28-85, 35-70, 50 1.7, 55-200, 70-210, 100-200, ProSpec 70-300, 800mm SolidCat, assorted MD/M42 glass.
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rickztahone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote rickztahone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2014 at 01:47
That is impressive to say the absolute least. Would you happen to have any shots of this rig in action, or end result shots?
a99+VG|a77+VG|a55|Nex6|HVL-56/58|minO|58 1.2|24|Tam|90|SAL||16-50|70-200|∑|50 1.4|∑| 24-70 2.8
[URL=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rickztahone/]Flickr
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janders1957 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote janders1957 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2014 at 01:57
Thanks Rick, but it's already apart to send out for anodize.
I am permanently departing for Australia hopefully by mid-April, and have far too much going on to play with it. It was a case of finish it now, or wait years. Also wanted to photograph it in the raw, as black anodized parts are harder to shoot and show the details.
I'm not even sure I can take it with me. 3 checked bags max, and even if I go to the max 70lbs overweight, that's all I'm going to have down there for the 8-12 months it'll be before I can ship the rest of my stuff over. Space in those bags is going to be tight. If it won't fit in carry on with the rest of my camera stuff, I might ship it to myself in a flat rate box right before I leave...

Will post some updates once I get a chance to use it!
Jon
A700, A500IR, 18-55, 24-105, 28-85, 35-70, 50 1.7, 55-200, 70-210, 100-200, ProSpec 70-300, 800mm SolidCat, assorted MD/M42 glass.
 



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janders1957 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote janders1957 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 March 2014 at 23:43
Ok, here's a picture of my macro rig complete after anodize. This is just to get started, when I am finally settled after my move. The T base is industrial extrusion use for making up frames and other easily assembled structures. This one is small as it needs to find room in my luggage for my flight down south. I have a much larger one that will ship over later.

No, sorry, haven't had a chance to put it to use yet. It's already been taken back apart and packed for travel. Will post again when I start putting it to use.



100_2309 by janders1957, on Flickr
Jon
A700, A500IR, 18-55, 24-105, 28-85, 35-70, 50 1.7, 55-200, 70-210, 100-200, ProSpec 70-300, 800mm SolidCat, assorted MD/M42 glass.
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der dickgg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote der dickgg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 November 2014 at 13:42
SteadyCam on the cheap....

End of autumn here on the northern hemisphere, so we have to make the garden ready for winter (... is uw tuin winterklaar??).

Removing the planter from the fence gave me an idea;



combine this with a table-tripod, handheld ballhead bought from the thriftshop for just 1,-



add some 0,5 Kg weights bought at the sportshop for workouts 1,50 each;



find a way to connect it firmly;



Add your 'never used tilt-head of your Benro monopod' and the job is done! Your own SteadyCam on the cheap!



Add more weight (and use a longer screw-bolt) for a more heavier camera/lens combination. What is shown above is suitable for my NEX-F3 with a standard lens.

Edited by der dickgg - 08 November 2014 at 13:45
Quit a lot of ALPHA gear, a nice collection of Sigma lenses, Dynax and M42 stuff, NEX i.c.w. Sigma's, Gitzo's, Visico's and lots of video-equipment
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Harriej View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Harriej Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2014 at 11:12
My only budget DIY project has been this little baby.

Basically it's a remote put into a grip. It works pretty well if you ask me so I'm happy about it!

Figured this might work so I opened up an older grip I got with a lens-deal


Worked on it a bit with a dremel to make it fit


Put it back together, worked better with the middle screw out for some reason, why not right?


Installed on my camera set and I can go out shooting :)
[IMG][/IMG]
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Post Options Post Options   Quote floydbloke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 October 2017 at 23:45
A few years ago I messed around with Lego Mindstorms NXT and a simple circuit to trigger the shutter from one of the Lego sensors. The results weren't particularly sharp but it proved the concept quite nicely.


Youtube video

NXT Camera Trigger by floydbloke, on Flickr

NXT Camera Trigger by floydbloke, on Flickr

NXT Camera Trigger by floydbloke, on Flickr
NXT Camera Trigger by floydbloke, on Flickr
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Miranda F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Miranda F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2017 at 08:13
What circuit did you use?
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote floydbloke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2017 at 19:44
Originally posted by Miranda F Miranda F wrote:

What circuit did you use?


The Lego NXT brick supports I2C. When the light beam is interrupted by the toy truck the software sends a signal to the I2C output. This is fed into a PCF8574 to divvy up the individual channels. One of these connects to one of the control pins of a 4066. The respective input/output pins are plugged into the remote shutter port (pins 1 & 3 if I recall, this was years ago) and effectively shorts them to trigger the shutter when the control pin goes high.
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Miranda F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Miranda F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 October 2017 at 11:01
Okay, a micro needed
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote floydbloke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 October 2017 at 05:33
Originally posted by Miranda F Miranda F wrote:

Okay, a micro needed

Yes. Although, I'm sure it could be achieved fairly cheaply with an Arduino and a few peripherals.
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