How to clean Skipping Control Wheels... My way.

Bob Maddison wrote: Photosopher wrote: I don't know how super glue reacts to rubber. Super Glue isn't suitable for rubber or any 'compliant' material. It needs heavy uniform pressure to make it 'cure' and this isn't practicable except on two hard, smooth, closely matched surfaces. There are plenty of suitable glues for this.

Just an FYI: There are flexible super glues designed to work with rubber. We use some at the factory were I work.

A caution for anyone using cleaners: Just make sure it is plastic safe (usually stated on the can). Some electrical cleaners will dissolve plastics and ruin your camera. Most electronic and tuner cleaners will not.   If in doubt, wet a cotton swab, and try it on a hidden spot, and see if you get any plastic on the swab.

Re: grip

from an old tread link

nigelbrooks wrote: No reason why Scotch 665 wouldn't work just as well on the grip.

hope that helps

I've never used double sided tape on a camera, but I have used it a lot. It's difficult to keep in tape strip because it wants to roll up on your fingers into a little bead. Perhaps that bead would benefit using it in the application needed for control wheel... But I really have no idea.

Personally, I'd still use a very small paint brush dipped into a dot of rubber cement, or 3M Super 77. But I'd have to find my ginseng first, to remember where I put my readers. It's delicate work no doubt, best saved for afternoon when the coffee jitters have subsided.

Okay, thanks Photosopher, I'll try the 3M Super 77.

Bit of a bump on this topic but as I tried it myself last night on a sticking/skipping wheel on my A350 I'll chime in with my results.

Been hesitant to do it, having had the cleaning stuff for weeks, as I'm in no position at the moment to replace my body if anything goes wrong but with the wheel finally giving in just about completely over the weekend I bit the bullet.

Cleaned it a first time with hardly any change at all.
Cleaned a second time and that gave some improvement.
So having improved I hit it a third time.
Improved somewhat again but came with a weird little side effect....my wheel now have reversed it's action
Scratching my head wondering if I remembered in what way it used to work correctly I mounted my VG and it is indeed going in the opposite direction.

For example looking from the top of the camera if I rotate counter clockvise when in EV setting my compensation goes up and clockvise it goes down. The wheel on the VG is opposite.

A reset to factory settings did nothing so I'm right now leaving it without the battery till tomorrow to see if that makes a change.
Will likely hit it a fourth time with the cleaning spray later on to see if that fixes it.

Thankyou,thankyou

My A700 lives to see another day! I was ready to chunk it, as it was really bad.   Now it will get some decent usage until I decide what to get next.

Ahoy!

Do you clean your own sensor? I found dripping a few drops of Eclipse sensor fluid between the body and wheel(s) either side then turning the wheel(s) to and fro as fast as possible for about 10 seconds worked for me (it only takes a few seconds for the fluid to evaporate). I've used it on several A700 bodies over the years when the skipping phenomenon arose and it worked 100% and I never had any problems thereafter, so maybe there's method in the madness!

It's my own battlefield fix method and not 'borrowed' from anyone or anywhere else and you use this method at your own risk, but based on my own experiences, you can't make it any worse . . . can you? Seriously, it worked a treat and when I sold-on the bodies, I never had any comebacks from buyers, so hopefully it'll be a simple cost effective fix for you or anyone else that has this problem.

Maybe if anyone tries it can post if it worked for them. There's plenty of life left in the A700's even with skipping wheel(s), but if anyone has had enough and want's to get rid, then I'll take one