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How to clean Skipping Control Wheels... My way.

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Bob Maddison View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob Maddison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2012 at 08:45
Originally posted by Photosopher Photosopher wrote:

I don't know how super glue reacts to rubber.


Super Glue isn't suitable for rubber or any 'compliant' material. It needs heavy uniform pressure to make it 'cure' and this isn't practicable except on two hard, smooth, closely matched surfaces.

There are plenty of suitable glues for this.
 



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fem2008 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote fem2008 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2012 at 09:05
Originally posted by Bob Maddison Bob Maddison wrote:

Originally posted by Photosopher Photosopher wrote:

I don't know how super glue reacts to rubber.


Super Glue isn't suitable for rubber or any 'compliant' material. It needs heavy uniform pressure to make it 'cure' and this isn't practicable except on two hard, smooth, closely matched surfaces.

There are plenty of suitable glues for this.


Just an FYI: There are flexible super glues designed to work with rubber. We use some at the factory were I work.

A caution for anyone using cleaners: Just make sure it is plastic safe (usually stated on the can). Some electrical cleaners will dissolve plastics and ruin your camera. Most electronic and tuner cleaners will not.   If in doubt, wet a cotton swab, and try it on a hidden spot, and see if you get any plastic on the swab.

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Bob Maddison View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob Maddison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2012 at 09:30
Originally posted by fem2008 fem2008 wrote:

Just an FYI: There are flexible super glues designed to work with rubber. We use some at the factory were I work.


Yes, I agree but these are not the "superglues" generally available for home use. The term "superglue" covers a wide range of self curing adhesives, some of which use UV light to cure them. Others rely upon a pre coat of an accelerator.

For rubber and similar materials, the proper application of a "contact adhesive" which allowed to partially cure in air by evaporation before the two surfaces are brought together is usually the most satisfactory. Epoxy adhesives set "hard" and are not generally suitable for compliant materials like rubber but can be used in the absence of anything better especially for small areas. "Gorilla Glue" relies on moisture absorbtion from the air and expands when cured and is perhaps not a good idea on rubber.

One effective way is to use double sided adhesive tape on rubber surfaces like this. Whilst very effective, it is also easily removed if necessary. This is often the maker's option!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote luckyduckie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2012 at 19:08
Re: grip

from an old tread link

Originally posted by nigelbrooks nigelbrooks wrote:



No reason why Scotch 665 wouldn't work just as well on the grip.


hope that helps
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jasz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jasz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2012 at 17:22
Hmm, I'm not sure which kind of rubber friendly glue I should try. I don't think I can get double-sided tape in between the rubber and rotating switch.
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Photosopher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Photosopher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2012 at 17:56
I've never used double sided tape on a camera, but I have used it a lot. It's difficult to keep in tape strip because it wants to roll up on your fingers into a little bead. Perhaps that bead would benefit using it in the application needed for control wheel... But I really have no idea.

Personally, I'd still use a very small paint brush dipped into a dot of rubber cement, or 3M Super 77. But I'd have to find my ginseng first, to remember where I put my readers. It's delicate work no doubt, best saved for afternoon when the coffee jitters have subsided.
 



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Bob Maddison View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob Maddison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2012 at 18:25
I'm not sure how you are using your double sided tape. If it is applied to one surface with the backing paper still on, there is no problem. The plastic coated backing paper is removed just prior to bringing the surfaces together. It is the standard "glue" used to attach leather /rubber /plastic trim to cameras etc.
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jasz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jasz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2012 at 19:36
Okay, thanks Photosopher, I'll try the 3M Super 77.
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Photosopher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Photosopher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2012 at 19:46
Spray it in a napkin, and dab out with very small artist paint brush (like shown on the front page).
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Post Options Post Options   Quote SnowFella Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 November 2013 at 04:52
Bit of a bump on this topic but as I tried it myself last night on a sticking/skipping wheel on my A350 I'll chime in with my results.

Been hesitant to do it, having had the cleaning stuff for weeks, as I'm in no position at the moment to replace my body if anything goes wrong but with the wheel finally giving in just about completely over the weekend I bit the bullet.

Cleaned it a first time with hardly any change at all.
Cleaned a second time and that gave some improvement.
So having improved I hit it a third time.
Improved somewhat again but came with a weird little side effect....my wheel now have reversed it's action
Scratching my head wondering if I remembered in what way it used to work correctly I mounted my VG and it is indeed going in the opposite direction.

For example looking from the top of the camera if I rotate counter clockvise when in EV setting my compensation goes up and clockvise it goes down. The wheel on the VG is opposite.

A reset to factory settings did nothing so I'm right now leaving it without the battery till tomorrow to see if that makes a change.
Will likely hit it a fourth time with the cleaning spray later on to see if that fixes it.
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Jocelynne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Jocelynne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 November 2013 at 16:53
@Photosopher: Superb shop manual procedure! I am impressed by your thoroughness and attention to detail.

Am I correct in assuming that you are an engineer or scientific researcher, or, perhaps, an advanced building tradesman? On the other hand, perhaps you have raised numerous children successfully?

Whatever, thank you for your grand efforts and your willingness to share so generously with us. You have been of valuable assistance.

Respectfully,

JL


Edited by Jocelynne - 27 November 2013 at 16:59
Maxxum 450si, Sony A300, A700, A900 and a cubic meter of Alpha lenses
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Hoffy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Hoffy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 December 2013 at 06:12
Thankyou,thankyou

My A700 lives to see another day! I was ready to chunk it, as it was really bad.   Now it will get some decent usage until I decide what to get next.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote SnowFella Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 December 2013 at 10:46
Glad to see some members are having more luck with this process than what I'm having!
Tried the cleaning 6 times now and the wheel action is still reversed and lately getting worse. Seems like the cleaning agent is stripping away lubricant from the wheel so it's getting increasingly harder to turn the wheel.
Had to resort to leaving my vertical grip permanently mounted now and using it's wheel for any changes in shutter/aperature. Doesn't really make for quick shooting to say the least.

Just fingers crossed the backpay I'm due backdated to August can cover a new camera body!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pirate Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 January 2014 at 14:27
Ahoy!

Do you clean your own sensor? I found dripping a few drops of Eclipse sensor fluid between the body and wheel(s) either side then turning the wheel(s) to and fro as fast as possible for about 10 seconds worked for me (it only takes a few seconds for the fluid to evaporate). I've used it on several A700 bodies over the years when the skipping phenomenon arose and it worked 100% and I never had any problems thereafter, so maybe there's method in the madness!

It's my own battlefield fix method and not 'borrowed' from anyone or anywhere else and you use this method at your own risk, but based on my own experiences, you can't make it any worse . . . can you? Seriously, it worked a treat and when I sold-on the bodies, I never had any comebacks from buyers, so hopefully it'll be a simple cost effective fix for you or anyone else that has this problem.

Maybe if anyone tries it can post if it worked for them. There's plenty of life left in the A700's even with skipping wheel(s), but if anyone has had enough and want's to get rid, then I'll take one   
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