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How to Replace the Slider Assembly on the KM 5D

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Frankman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Frankman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: How to Replace the Slider Assembly on the KM 5D
    Posted: 11 December 2010 at 13:13
Joachim (aka "traebbe") has kindly offered to share his expertise with us through the following tutorial which describes how to replace the slider assembly on the KM 5D. It's an involved procedure not for the faint of heart (like me!), but I'm sure it will be useful to many of the technically gifted members on this site.



The following description is originally posted on Joachim's site here.





Konica Minolta Dynax 5D/Maxxum 5D





Replace the Slider Assembly





Many Users of the 5D know this case:

By Power-On the cam, you can hear and feel a rumble for about 2 to 3 seconds.

The Cam is able to focus and every other function except release.

Letting the Cam go into sleep mode and waken up again, it works fine afterwards.

But in many cases you want to take a shot right after power-on the Cam, so it must be repaired.

Though the price of repair often is higher than the worth of the Cam, I decided to to the repair the cam for myself,

cause I further would use my equipment adapted to the cam, Lenses, Batteries, Charger, CF-Cards and so on.

I don't want cheap-selling all the items on ebay, so i ordered the required Part at the Sony-Repair-Centre Runtime Contract in Bremen/Germany

The Spare-Part is available in most of the Sony-Repair-Centres.

Sony-Part-Number is : U-3008-467-U



Here I'll give you a guide to replace the Slider-Assembly for yourself.

For the Part-Nummbers i use the Parts List 2186 (Dynax/Maxxum 5D)

Be sure to have the Parts List when you start to work.

Notice to every Screw, from where you take it.

In case of do it yourself, keep in mind, that this will be a difficult job which strictly require sense to work with midget parts and screws

Take care in what you're doing, otherwise you can ruin the Cam.

Be careful by open the front cover. Behind the Cover there is the Flash-Capacitor.







Touching the soldering point on the Flash-PCB may cause Black Fingers and Electric Shock







You need the suitable tools:



    * Crosshead-Driver (Size 00)

    * A Hex-Wrench 1,5 mm

    * A little Knife (Pocket knife)

    * Several forceps

    * A little Gripper

    * Solder-Equipment (i use a Weller TCP-S 24V/50W, regulated)

    * Unsolder Pump

    * Isopropanol-Alcohol to clean the parts

    * A Bulb to unload the Flash-Capacitor (I use a 220V/50 W GU10 Halogen-Bulb, on the connectors i solder a isolated wire )

      the bulb should be able to handle the 330 Volt from the Capacitor

    * Some Boxes to keep the Screws

    * Untroubled Time, about 3 hours

      send your wife and the children go shopping to IKEA !!!

      put your dog and cat out of the house

      Turn off your Cell-Phone

      Unplug the Phone

      Turn off the radio and TV







If that is all done, you can start.

Remove the Battery

Unmount the Lens and put the Front Cap on the Bayonet. Leave it there until you're finished.

Turn the Cam to the top an remove the 4 Screws at the bottom.







Remove the Rubber from the Viewfinder.



    *There are no screws at the rubber, only pull it upwards.







Turn the Body to the right and unscrew the two screws behind the CF Card Cover







Turn the body to the left and unscrew the Screw on the left upper side.







Unscrew the two screws beneath the Viewfinder







Remove the Back Cover Assy.







Pull out the Flat-Cable for the Buttons on the left.







Unscrew the 4 Screws fixing the LCD







Lift up the LCD and topple it backwards till you can remove the LCD GND Plate (1043-02).







Release the Flat Cable from the TFT by lifting up the locking.







Remove the Cable for the LCD-Harness (0442-01)







Put the LCD somewhere it don't bother you at your work.

Release the Flat-Cable of the Back-Switches on the right bottom.







Unscrew the 7 Screws from the Main Chassis (1001-03)in the following 3 Pictures















Remove the Main Chassis (1001-03) by lift it up at the left and pull it out to the left.







Unscrew the 2 Screws from the DCDC PCB Assy (0402-03) and unsolder the triple Contact at the bottom and the Shield Plate (1021-01)







To make it easier, unscrew the 2 Screws from the DC Jack PCB Assy (0427-03)







Lift up the DCDC PCB Assy (0402-03) and release the Flat-Cable on the lower side and the white Wire-Jack on the upper side.















Note the number on the Sticker, you'll need it after assembling to Adjust.



Unsolder the 8 Wires from the Main PCB Assy (0410-08). There are 6 on the top and 2 at the lower left corner







Wire color       direction        Soldering Point on PCB

grey                  to the right       PGND

orange              to the right       MV5

dark grey          to the left          AFM-

yellow               to the left          FM+

orange              to the left          AFM+

black                 to the left          FM-







Release the yellow fixing tapes at the cables and all Flat-Cables on the Main PCB Assy (0410-08)by lifting up the black fixing-lane and softly pull out the cables.







Unscrew the 3 Screws fixing the Main PCB Assy (0410-08), the longer one belongs to the bottom.

Rightside from the external DC-Connector there's on more black screw (without picture yet), remove it also.

Be careful with the 2 wires belongs to the backlight of the LCD, if these wires would brake away, don't worry, you can fix it by solder it back.

The red one to the soldering point BL- and the blue one to the soldering point BL+







Remove the Main PCM Assy from the Body by lifting it up on the left side and pull it out to the left.







Prepare the solder Points carefully for an easyer Assembling.







Now you can see the Board from the CCD. Unsolder the GND-Connector and release the Flat-Cable from the CCD Assy (0271-01)







Now you have to release the Front- and Top-Cover to get Space to pull out the Slider-Assy

Unscrew following screws:

One on the left upper side at the Version Plate (1301-01), remove the Plate, behind you'll find an other Screw, which has to be removed.







The 2 Screws at the right side







There are two more screws under the Built-in Flash, which have to be unscrewed.



Pull the Front-Cover from the Body

Now you'll see 4 Wires, the upper 2, White and Yellow, came from the Flash-Capacitor.

Carefull unload the Capacitor by contact with the wires from the Bulb



Be sure to unload the Capacitor correct. Otherwise, contact with your fingers may cause electrical Shock !!











Remove the CCD Plate Rag Plate 2 (2709-01)







Now you have to release the Top-Cover by unscrew following screws:

The 2 ones beneath the Viewfinder







One in the Battery-Case







One beneath the Bayonett







One at the right side from the top







and one behind the Diopter Adjust Sheet (5045-02) in the Diopter Dial (5041-01).







Unscrew the 7 Screws from the Bottom Main Plate (1004-04) and remove the plate.











Remove the Main Board Support Plate B (1172-03)







Remove the Main Board Support Plate A (1171-01) and the CCD Slanting Stopper (2721-01)







Remove the Slider Stopper Plate (2961-02)







Now you'll see 3 Hex-Screws, one at the left and 2 at the right.







Remove the locking (Hot Glue) careful without rotate the screws.







This is very important, cause you get the CCD in the right position (Distance to the Lens)after Assembling again.

Use the Hex Driver and rotate the Screws to the softly to the right, till the end.

Count the rotations and notice them on a paper sheet.

I used the Clock-Division.



It looks like that:

right top 4,45 (4 full Rotations, 45 Minutes)

right bottom 4,50 (4 full Rotations, 50 Minutes)

left 5,45 (5 full rotations, 45 Minutes)



Then you can unscrew the Hex-Screws and remove the Slider Assy carefully.

Notice that on the right upper corner is a Spring, that goes deep into the Body.







Now you hold the malefactor in your Hand.

Be sure, that there are all 3 AORI Adj. Springs (2703-02) and brazen Cap-washers (2722-03) at their Positions.



Now you can put the CCD into the new Slider Assy

Unscrew the 4 Screws of the CCD Assy (0271-01) and remove the CCD carefully.







Take Care on the following parts:

CCD Under Plate (2918-01)

CCD UnderPlate Spring (2920-03)

Steel Ball (0100-00) By assembling the CCD to the new Slider Assy, be very Carefully in mounting these 3 Parts.

First put the Ball and Plate to the right Position and Fix the CCD Assy.

Then fix the Spring in the right way.

Then you can assemble the Parts again to the body, step by step.

By mounting the slider Assy, look for the perfekt parallelism from the slider Assy to the Body, otherwise your shoots may be inclined

Srew the 3 Hex-Screws in, till the end and then counterclockwise back as you noticed.

Fix all other screws carefully, the small winding is very sensitive.

Assemble all parts to the body until you come to the LCD.

Leave the LCD out of the Cam, so you can adjust the CCD from the Backside.

Take some shots and check it on your PC, if they're ok.

It may take patience to fit the CCD in the right Position without Adjustment Equipment, but it is possible

Otherwise you can send the repaired Cam to the Service-Center to adjust.



Hope, this guide helps you to replace the Slider assy, as well as i did.

If you find any mistake in this guide, let me know.



Joachim



Edited by Frankman - 15 July 2012 at 06:18
*** Sony A850 * A700 * Minolta 5D and other stuff ***
 



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nigelbrooks View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote nigelbrooks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 December 2010 at 13:50
An amazing resource, but definitely NOT for the 'ham-fisted' solderer (like me).

Thanks for your hard work and in sharing this.
I've been away!
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Conny1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Conny1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 December 2010 at 14:50

Great, thank´s for sharing!
Gruß in die Schweiz!
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Micholand View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Micholand Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 December 2010 at 11:09
Thanks for sharing this well illustrated contribution.
/Michael

Posting images&links FAQs | DWEs don't grow on trees
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DeX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote DeX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2011 at 14:58
I'm actually looking for something like this for a minolta 7D that I love so much and is completely AS dead. It is amazing how the 5D and A100 look alike in the inside, although the A100 seems more service friendly.

I also have a DIY ir conversion tutorial on flickr that I'll upload here on dyxum after having seen this wonderfully detailed repair.
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Enirual View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Enirual Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2011 at 10:03
Dear Sirs.
Yes, is it possible !
i do it with a 5D for parts.
Thank you again for this very good description.
Bye.
 



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ceromoto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ceromoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2012 at 22:31
Hi all,

pardon my English because I am using a translator, I would like to see the pictures and I'm trying to fix my 5D and I think I would of Hran help. thanks in advance for everything.

regards

Nico
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Post Options Post Options   Quote sybersitizen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2012 at 22:57
Joachim (aka "traebbe") has kindly offered to share his expertise with us through the following tutorial which describes how to replace the slider assembly on the KM 5D...

The following description is originally posted on Joachim's site here.

It looks like that page has been shut down, so the accompanying photos can no longer be seen here.
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ceromoto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ceromoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2012 at 08:35
thank you very much for the reply. if anyone has pictures I would appreciate the pass, thank you very much again, a greeting.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote PJS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2012 at 04:18
I have been trying to track down the part, and itseems that it is no longer available. The Sony parts place here in Australia don't have it, and the websites I have found all list it as out of stock and/or unavailable. Does anybody know if there is a similar part from a Sony camera that is compatible with the 5D? If not then the only way to do this repair would be to find a broken camera that doesn't have this problem (and this problem seems to be the main reason they break
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Post Options Post Options   Quote PJS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2012 at 23:47
OK, did some looking around. According to the parts diagram for a Sony Alpha A-100 here http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Sony-Parts/Camera-Parts/Model-DSLR-A100/0996/0500140/50029734/00004
The diagram for the slider assembly is identical to the parts diagram from the KM 5D, so it seems likely that the parts may be compatible. The SOny part number for the A100 version is A1196100A
and it seems there is a more modern substitution which is A1246028C. These parts do still seem to be available (although not cheap). I will think a bi more on this before I decide what to do. I will probably leave it though. The camera is still usable if you let it go in sleep mode after turning it on (ie, turn it on and leave for a minute or so without using any controls, when you press the shutter after that it will work) so I may just keep using it with out anti-shake.

Edited by stiuskr - 12 July 2012 at 11:59
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Post Options Post Options   Quote nigelbrooks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2012 at 10:57
Don't forget to check out the 'boneyard' section in the Dyxum 'external sales' area.

Unlikely, but you may find a 5D scrapped for reasons other then AS failure.

Whatever happens, welcome to Dyxum and good luck/ good light.
I've been away!
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