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Manual focus lenses on E mount

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Post Options Post Options   Quote pegelli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 November 2020 at 21:26
Originally posted by rastapartaman rastapartaman wrote:

I had the MD 50mm F2 that I sold to pegeli many years ago and it was one of the sharpest manual lens I've used. Corner to corner even wide open. The 50f1.7 had to be stopped down to 2.8 or more for the sharpness of the 50f2 wide open.
Not sure how it works for IR as I've never tried it.
Yes, you sold it to me together with a M42 bellows, I still use the lens (but not on the bellows, the bellows is more used with longer M42 lenses for macro and focus stacking) and agree it's a very good and sharp copy. Only reason I don't use it more often is that I have way too many nifty 50's but it's a great lens and one of my better ones in that focal length.
Mind the bandwidth of others, don't link pictures larger then 1024 wide or 960 pix high, see here
 



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Miranda F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Miranda F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 November 2020 at 13:16
I can recommend the Meike 35mm f1.7 which is a direct E-mount fit and very nicely made in the old-fashioned way. There are at least two different versions of this lens, though, and the later one is much better. It is heavier (220g), has silver rings at each end, and has a 9-blade iris not 8. It has a little curvature of field in the corners (not softness) but is quite usable at or near full aperture.
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Barrin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 November 2020 at 14:24
I had vary bad experience with Meike 25/1.8. This led me to avoid these new manual lenses, but off course there is sample variation.

BTW, I'm fully covered and satisfied with my AF kit, thus I just like to find something old to play with since I feel the charm of using very old toys..
Sony A6000|Zony 24/1.8|Sigma 60/2.8

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rastapartaman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote rastapartaman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 November 2020 at 20:29
Originally posted by pegelli pegelli wrote:

Yes, you sold it to me together with a M42 bellows, I still use the lens (but not on the bellows, the bellows is more used with longer M42 lenses for macro and focus stacking) and agree it's a very good and sharp copy. Only reason I don't use it more often is that I have way too many nifty 50's but it's a great lens and one of my better ones in that focal length.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Aavo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 November 2020 at 20:37
Great legacy manual lenses with proper adapter are nice.
a6500 & 20/2.8, 24/1.8, 56/1.4, 18-135/3.5-5.6 OSS
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Post Options Post Options   Quote onsplekkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 November 2020 at 23:05
I can vouch for the MD 1.4/50. Bit soft wide open, bt sharpens up just nicely at f/2.

I tried many a legacy lenses over the years. Mostly trial & error because of personal reasons such as handling, character/colour/IQ. My keepers are:
- Jupiter 9 (not very nice to focus manual but espacialy in backlit situations this lens can deliver that dreamy vintage portraits)
- Takumar SMC 4/50 macro (incredible sharp wide open for a vintage lens)
- Takumar SMC 1.8/55 (nift fifty that has character + smooth bokeh)
- Kenlock MC-tor 2.8/28 (funky character lens to use with some extentions on flowers)

I also use(d) some modern Voigtlander manual lenses. I find them exceptional
in use and IQ wise, but somewhat expensive
"take life as it is, not as you want it to be"
 



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Post Options Post Options   Quote alpha_in_exile Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 November 2020 at 03:56
I think I should be able to help a little in this discussion, so I will try. I have a 5N with an MD to Nex adapter (Fotasy brand), and I use MD 24/2.8, MD 50/1.4, and MD 75-200/4.5, with really (I think) good success.

I use focus peaking with some success. I also use focus magnification. For focus peaking, I find that you have to test the results and get used to how it behaves. Once you are used to it, it's not completely useless. I find that when you start to see red peaking areas it isn't really yet in focus - push the focus a little further and you'll get it. Just how far to go after peaking starts takes practice. But it may behave differently for different cameras... And for focus magnification, one of the problems is: how to use it when your subject is not directly in the center of the image? You can change the focus point (by changing the AF focus point - I believe focus magnification jumps to the point set for the AF), but this is inconvenient, especially if you need to change it rapidly.

Here are six sample photos with the MD Rokkor-X 50/1.4 (55mm filter size): MD 50/1.4 sample photos. The second shot is a 100% crop of the first (but it was a foggy day & I'm not sure what f-stop I used), the second was taken to show flare, the third to show bokeh and sharpness wide open (with 100% crop as well). I really need to add more samples as I think mine is generally sharper at f/1.4 than what you see there. It is prone to flare (and some of it is ugly flare, though black & white conversion helps sometimes). I like my 24/2.8, though I do not have a series of samples for it.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote overeema Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 November 2020 at 14:41
Originally posted by Barrin Barrin wrote:

Thanks for the advice. I will try to tune the diopters at best.

Would someone suggest a MD prime to start with?

I always use focus peaking and have obtained excellent results both with MC and MD primes. After some trial and error I chose yellow as focus color, not red or white, but that is my personal preference. A few MC 1.7/85 samples here.

And two important remarks. Always focus on full aperture! Even when you close down your aperture for the picture. You could easily forget, since the EVF adjusts illumination, regardless of light conditions and aperture.
And be aware that you don't have OSS, unless your camera has IBIS.

A panorama shot with MF-lenses is almost impossible.

Edited by overeema - 22 November 2020 at 14:52
minolta owner since 1969; A350-SAL1680Z-SAL70300G-Tamron60F2-Minolta100F2-Minolta35105-Minolta28135-Minolta50F1.7; NEX6-SELP1650-SELP18105G (and some minolta MC/MD glass )
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Aavo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 November 2020 at 17:41
My suggestion is to have AF lenses with nice MF ring / (button). Novadays AF is so good and you have possibility to switch MF, and Sony's DMF is great.
a6500 & 20/2.8, 24/1.8, 56/1.4, 18-135/3.5-5.6 OSS
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Barrin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2020 at 20:40
First of all I'd like to thank you all for answering me. This is not trivial at the moment.

This weekend, given also we are almost locked in house, I tried to play a with my nex3n and the 35-70/4. I found myself reaching a good focus combining peaking and magnification. Also recognized that the lens likes to be closed 1-2 stops for optimal sharpness..

..I will try to produce something good with this combo and define what lens acquire to go on. Maybe some samples are also coming
Sony A6000|Zony 24/1.8|Sigma 60/2.8

3xi|M35-70/4|M100-200/4.5

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