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Removing haze from 35F2

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paso144 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote paso144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Removing haze from 35F2
    Posted: 03 February 2020 at 19:28
Bought me a 35F2 RS version which I knew had fungus/haze issues. So opened it up yesterday but wasn't expecting this carnage .








Clearly somebody already tried to get out the rear element of the front group, however not in a a too gentle way. This became clear after I patiently removed a thick layer of black silicone kit from the edge. Seller already indicated that he had it at a lens repair shop and they indicated this couldn't be fixed. No idea what kind of lenses they normally repair

Seeing it has haze (milky reflection when shining a bright light in it and significant loss of contrast) I assume this is the cement between the last two elements in the front group G3 and G4.





Anyone experience with splitting this kind of glue connection. What can I expect with an early 90ties lens, an epoxy connection or a somewhat older type of Canadian gum style layer. What would be the next approach, heating it to see whether the last element comes off?


Edited by paso144 - 10 February 2020 at 14:41
A850, 16fish-eye, 17-35G, 28-70G, 50/1.4RS, 58/1.2, 85/1.4D, 80-200/2.8APO black, 100macroD, 100-300APO, 100-400APO, AT-X304, 500mirror, 5600D HS.
 



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QuietOC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote QuietOC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2020 at 20:40
I am not sure what you mean by D. Maybe you mean the restyled version with the rubber grip?

The lens elements are dry crimped/pressed into the alloy housing. They aren't really sealed which is how the fungus and moisture get in. I don't think it is serviceable.

Edited by QuietOC - 03 February 2020 at 20:48
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paso144 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote paso144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2020 at 21:32
I do not have problems with the crimped part. Can simply remove the crimp part with a lathe and turn a new endpiece to fix it again. Still assume the haze is in the glue between element G3 and G4, so that needs to come loose.

And yes I meant the RS Version so probably early 90ties.

Edited by paso144 - 10 February 2020 at 14:40
A850, 16fish-eye, 17-35G, 28-70G, 50/1.4RS, 58/1.2, 85/1.4D, 80-200/2.8APO black, 100macroD, 100-300APO, 100-400APO, AT-X304, 500mirror, 5600D HS.
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paso144 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote paso144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 February 2020 at 14:39
Any interesting thoughts from the fabulous Dyxum community on how to separate glass elements?
A850, 16fish-eye, 17-35G, 28-70G, 50/1.4RS, 58/1.2, 85/1.4D, 80-200/2.8APO black, 100macroD, 100-300APO, 100-400APO, AT-X304, 500mirror, 5600D HS.
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stiuskr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote stiuskr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 February 2020 at 17:22
Not sure if that's possible, if it is you'd need to know what if any adhesive was used. I remember seeing a How It's Made show on Zeiss binoculars and they bond the prisms by molecular cohesion, where the mating surfaces are so finely ground and perfectly flat that when they meet they bond and become one. I doubt that's the case here and if not maybe the correct solvent and a ultrasonic cleaner might do the trick over time.

(O/T side note on molecular cohesion, I also remember seeing where F1 engines are so finely machined that there's no need for head gaskets)

Edited by stiuskr - 11 February 2020 at 16:59
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Snegren View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Snegren Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 February 2020 at 18:45
I have read that some binding agents deteriorate under strong UV light. Perhaps this one does?
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sybersitizen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote sybersitizen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2020 at 06:20
Originally posted by paso144 paso144 wrote:

Any interesting thoughts from the fabulous Dyxum community on how to separate glass elements?

It's probably not too hard ... unless you need them to remain undamaged and operational. That would be the tricky part.
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mirthseeker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote mirthseeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2020 at 08:42
Have a look through this article.
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paso144 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote paso144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2020 at 08:45
@mirthseeker; thanks will have a look at it.
A850, 16fish-eye, 17-35G, 28-70G, 50/1.4RS, 58/1.2, 85/1.4D, 80-200/2.8APO black, 100macroD, 100-300APO, 100-400APO, AT-X304, 500mirror, 5600D HS.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote mirthseeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2020 at 08:49
There is also this thread on dpreview that has one or two ideas, like using xylene.
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