Scanning - The scanner article

I had a vague memory of a preset in DxO Optics pro for negative conversion, but thought I must be misremembering as it wasn't in Photolab - but it was there - and it works!

You can also export the preset from Optics Pro and import to PhotoLab...

addy landzaat wrote: Thank you There is some market forces at play - the ES-2 officially is €149,- in The Netherlands and €169,- in Germany Some questions: Is it really that easy to convert a negative with the orange layer? I noticed Nikon does not recommend current longer macro's like the 85mm and 105mm, made wonder how the 100mm you use behaves. Why do you use an UV filter? Does it do anything? Re. light: I think you want a panel to have even light. Most (all?) flashes do not have a panel, but a few leds - at least my HVL-F60M LED's seem to small to give even lighting to do this well.

It is available for £144-149 from couple shops in UK. But they don't have stock and cannot make any promises or tell me when it may be stock. The ones that have it in stock are charging £179, so it was cheaper to buy from a German shop on ebay. I could have probably saved £10-20 if I had waited and looked longer. But I have been waiting since the lockdown started in the UK and I just want to get on with it. Its something I can do at home, its time consuming and now that I am stuck at home with no where to go (for the most part) I want to make use of this time.
TL;DR - yes prices vary, I am sick of waiting and my time (certainly 1-2 months) is worth more than £10-20

>Is it really that easy to convert a negative with the orange layer?
yep, I have done it above

Nikon does not suggest longer focal lengths because its MFD at 1:1 is longer and hence you cannot shoot the full film at 1:1. You can still use them if you can somehow manage to add distance between the lens and film (i.e. adapter).
If you look at the fredmiranda inspiration links you will notice how someone has managed to use it FE90 using setup/down rings as spacers.
In my case thanks to the design of the laowa lens (i.e. built-in helicoid to achieve 2:1) I don't need to space it out too much. The two UV filters are needed to push back the adapter enough to able to shoot the whole film at 1:1. One UV filter came with the lens by default and I added another I had lying around.

There is a diffuser on the adapter which is handy. Since I will be doing this on a table top I can deal with long-ish exposure using a remote shutter. I am going to try diffusing my phones LEDs to help or may be use a tablet as scanning bed (pocket softbox app). Anyway I will workout something that works, its not such a big deal IMO because the setup is so stable from other perspectives

Edited by nandbytes - 27 June 2020 at 10:27

sony cameras are good are recognising your setup is on a tripod.
But yes I have turned IBIS off.

looks like I have wrongly assumed:

A7RIV says the same things - "When using a tripod, etc., make sure to turn off the SteadyShot function because this can cause any malfunction when shooting."

Probably one of the internet truths I picked up on one of the many forums.
So certainly turn it off for purposes of digitising film.

You did not say it was on a tripod when you took the picture and I assume you didn't. I do not know why I thought so....

Manuals often are all about "just to be sure". This could be one of those cases.

addy landzaat wrote: You did not say it was on a tripod when you took the picture and I assume you didn't. I do not know why I thought so.... Manuals often are all about "just to be sure". This could be one of those cases.

It's a common "DC offset" problem. If it is completely stationary, the DC offset cannot be canceled, which may cause malfunction.
"Completely stationary" requires good conditions such as a sturdy tripod and no wind, so it is recommended to turn on image stabilization if the tripod shakes significantly when touched.