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The 2020 film challenge - Signup (and outtakes)

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Post Options Post Options   Quote bonneville Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 September 2020 at 17:18
Originally posted by alpha_in_exile alpha_in_exile wrote:

So I've been looking for an affordable (for me) Maxxum 7 or at least a 5 for some long while now. This week, I found one on the 'Bay, and it's on its way.... And I have two rolls of film, so I may join you all, after all, and try to get some 1/3rd keepers.

Assuming all goes well (i.e. the camera is functional), I'll shoot with the 'new' 7 and some Kodak B&W400CN, and try to get keepers from at least 1/3rd of the 24-exposure roll. I know I can afford to get the CN cheaply developed, locally, so maybe this time I will get some pics posted.

Incidentally -- and maybe just to commiserate with those of you who are paying for processing -- I finally shipped out for processing the 220 film I had worked on during the last film challenge. I paid for d&p and 'large' scans from Mpix (presently about $23.00 USD which I think is quite competitive for 220). I still have an exposed roll of Velvia 50 from the last challenge that, if don't go absolutely broke, I might ship out in a week or two.

Eventually I'd like to play with the 7's advanced features, especially with getting some double exposures, but this first roll will just be experimental.

Congratulations on your choice and purchase. I have two (Dynax)7 cameras and it really is the best (IMHO) film Minolta. You may be familiar with the sticky back syndrome and if it turns out that your new Maxxum 7 is inflicted, have a look here to easily sort it out.

Looking forward to seeing the fruits of your labours
 



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alpha_in_exile View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote alpha_in_exile Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 September 2020 at 17:06
Oh my goodness. I received the 7 today.

I knew of the "sticky back" phenomenon, and I knew this specimen would have it. I was not intimidated. But now I'm impressed (still not intimidated).

"Sticky," say all the posts. "Sticky" is something of an understatement. I opened the box on my lunch break, and was afraid I wouldn't get my hand released in time to return to work! (I'm exaggerating. Just a little).

The Big Beercan it came with has a weird problem. Despite being mounted to the camera in the eBay photo, it won't mount now. I gently tested it on my A900 as well - no joy. Both the 7 and the BBC look to be in fine shape, but there's excess friction or resistance in attempting to mount the BBC. A lens cap fits, but it gives more than usual resistance. The 7's mounting ring is not damaged- I was able to mount my A lenses... I'll start a separate thread in the lens forum if I can't figure it out, later.

For now, back to work.
-- Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 September 2020 at 17:16
Originally posted by alpha_in_exile alpha_in_exile wrote:

The Big Beercan it came with has a weird problem. Despite being mounted to the camera in the eBay photo, it won't mount now. I gently tested it on my A900 as well - no joy. Both the 7 and the BBC look to be in fine shape, but there's excess friction or resistance in attempting to mount the BBC. A lens cap fits, but it gives more than usual resistance. The 7's mounting ring is not damaged- I was able to mount my A lenses...


Sounds like some sort of damage to the bayonet - That bayonet brass is a little prone to bending under impact - I had a beercan that had been dropped and would not mount - think I canibalized a 35-80 to replace the bayonet (the parts are similar).

Don't despair about the stickiness - although it might be an idea not to start cleaning up until you are happy that you are keeping the lens as you might need to return in the same condition.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Micholand Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 September 2020 at 18:23
Haven't shot any film since long, so decided to join the fun
Hence finally dusted off one of my Dynax 5 on the weekend and run two rolls of Kentmere400 through it. Both b&w films were directly 'souped' in Ilfosol3 afterwards on Sunday evening and the first roll is currently digitized. So you can expect 1/3rd keepers in the other thread in the next coming days
/Michael

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Post Options Post Options   Quote alpha_in_exile Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2020 at 01:13
Originally posted by Bob J Bob J wrote:

Sounds like some sort of damage to the bayonet - That bayonet brass is a little prone to bending under impact - I had a beercan that had been dropped and would not mount - think I canibalized a 35-80 to replace the bayonet (the parts are similar).


You were 100% correct about the bayonet. There is a very small warp in one part of the bayonet flange.

AND - the camera is broken. It has the aperture mechanism error, which I remember reading about before. It seems likely some previous owner dropped camera and lens, damaging both.

So the whole lot is junk, and will have to be returned.   
-- Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2020 at 09:58
I thought I would post up a bit about my 'experiment' along with some outtakes.



The AGIFold is a reasonably high-spec camera for its time, it is a 6x6 folder with an uncoupled rangefinder, and extinction meter (still can't work out how that works) and a reasonably fast lens (a 75mm f/4.5 AGILUX Astigmat). It was made by a company in Croydon called Aeronautical general Intruments - they had produced aeromatical cameras during the war and produced some commercial models after the war. The 'kit' for fitting a 35mm casette was two 3D-printed plugs for each end of the casette bought off the internet.

The AGIFold relies on a red window to read the numbers off 120 film backing paper, so step one was to stick some 120 backing paper over the pressure plate to keep light out - I also plugged the red window and its sliding cover with a generous wad of blu-tak.

I had to eatimate how many turns of the wind-knob would bring the film on to the next frame - experiments with backing paper suggested that a single turn should work (it didn't, I should have done 1.25 as the early shots were quite highly overlapped) and of course the shots would space differently as the film went on and the 'spool' got bigger.

Finally there was no way of re-winding the casette, so that would have to be done in a dark bag.

Anyhow, here are the outtakes:

Ship heading downriver at Erith


Greenwich yacht club - one of the benefits for using Kentmere PAN is that it doesn't have too much pre-exposed on the perforations (HP5 tends to have barcode info), but films do come out upside-down on the AGIFlex. to get it up the right way I'd either have to invert the camera for exposures (possible but awkward), or find a folder that wound left-to-right...


Thames barrier


Thames barrier covered walkway - similar to a shot posted earlier - the Astigmat suffers quite a lot from flare (I guess that aeronautical cameras face less issues with light sources in the frame).


Dianonal equine portrait. I quite liked this one put throught I could only include one diagonal shot in the 7 and I preferred one of the bridge.
 



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Post Options Post Options   Quote Howard_S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2020 at 10:10
Fascinating, Bob: can you provide a link for the 3d printed 'plugs'? Does this mean any vintage 120/620 camera can be relatively easily adapted, or is it specific to the Agifold? I'm curious if it could be used in a Yashica Mat or Autocord ... I have a plastic Blackbird, Fly toy camera that shoots over the sprockets, but it would be grand to use a proper if longer lens (Flickr album here).
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2020 at 10:29
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35mm-to-120-adapter/303559844602?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

They are not camera specific. You just plug them on the end of the casette and they extend the length to that of a 120 spool (so should also work for 620?).

I had originally planned to use a TLR, but the loading on the Rolliflex does this mechanical backing-paper-sensor thing and I wasn't confident and my first attempt to use the Microcord didn't seem to want to wind properly. There is also the problem of high narrow negatives on a TLR (unless you tip sideways and use the speedfinder) and I think you would also lose comparitively more film in loading as the film path tends to be a bit more tortuous (which on 120 only involves the backing paper).

Plus remember if the TLR has a counter it might limit you to 12 shots, while I managed 21 on a 36 exposure roll.


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Howard_S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2020 at 10:52
Thanks, Bob: I have a couple of bellows cameras that are less sophisiticated! And not expensive for a test.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 September 2020 at 10:16
Cool thread. I'd like to join. Just got my first Minolta ever... a Maxxum 7 (Alpha 7) & a Minolta Data Saver DS-100 to go with it. What a camera!

Edited by Dean - 25 September 2020 at 10:23
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Post Options Post Options   Quote pegelli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 September 2020 at 10:52
One outtake from the FP4 in my OM4T

Ventilation inlet of Fort Flémalle from the defence ring around Liege, which was built between WO1 and WO2.
It finally proved a weak spot since when the Germans couldn't penetrate the fort they started shooting at this tower, a lot of dust and pebbles from these impacts were sucked into the fort finally making the atmosphere inside unbearable which in part led to the surrender of it.



OM4T + Tokina 35-70/2.8, FP4 developed in Microphen, scanned on an Epson V700 and finished in Lightroom
Mind the bandwidth of others, don't link pictures larger then 1024 wide or 960 pix high, see here
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 September 2020 at 12:55
Ok - this is slightly barking...

I've been drafting something for 35mmc that they may or may not put up on their site - it is a dismantling of an SRT 303b... even disembowled and with the prism removed it still worked - and after it had been consigned to the bin, I found myself wondering if I should have tried putting a film through it...

This is where this come in!



This is a old SR7 - dating from 1962, with the prism removed - I'm considering trying a film through it while composing directly on the ground-glass screen... a side benefit is that it seems that the meter is working - it is not TTL, so should work even without the prism...
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Howard_S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 September 2020 at 14:03


Will light leak around the ground glass when the mirror is up?
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Bob J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 September 2020 at 18:52
Originally posted by Howard_S Howard_S wrote:



Will light leak around the ground glass when the mirror is up?


Well, there's one way to find out...

As I've got quite a few cameras I want to try out, I might do 16 shots in this, then transfer to another camera for the remainder of the roll...
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