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Alpha/Maxxum/Dynax 7 Rewind at 36 exposures

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Miranda F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Miranda F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Alpha/Maxxum/Dynax 7 Rewind at 36 exposures
    Posted: 26 June 2020 at 09:24
I think the trick is to make sure you take the *one* picture you want and to check the settings carefully before you do. I've never been that good, and always end up taking several with slightly different viewpoints.
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .
 



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Bob J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2020 at 19:09
The moral of the following story is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

I do like getting those extra shots, so had been looking at this thread with interest. I had a roll of Ilford PAN 400 in my 7 and was currently at frame 23 - it occured to me I could wind the film back (leader out), rub off the patch and reload, advancing the film to frame 24...

Anyhow, here is what went wrong. I'd set the camera to manual rewind. I put the PAN 400 back in the camera after going to work with a flat-headed screwdriver... Set to shutter priority, covered the lens and hit the shutter release. Problem was the camera detected resistance at frame 3 and said to rewind... But the rewind didn't take the film all the way, so the back would not open.. AAAGH!

Should you find yourself in this situation, there is a get-out as detailed by member arilds back in 2010...

Originally posted by arilds arilds wrote:

Did you try the steps below to override the film lock? Sorry I saw this thread too late in case this could have helped.


1.Turn the main switch off.

2.While pressing ISO and AE-Lock buttons turn on the camera.

3.Display should now show "Back cover can now be opened"


If you want to cancel the deactivation of the film lock without opening the back cover repeat steps 1 and 2.


If this fails unscrew the screw just below the PC terminal, and remove the small panel. Slide the inside lever down to open the back cover.


So that was alright, and after recovering the film in a dark bag, I was go again. I went back to auto rewind and changed batteries, trouble was the rewound roll kept autodetecting and rewinding, so in the end I detensioned the roll as much as I could and shook the camera gently to eliminate any resistance. Now I've got the camera back where it was, with the cassette telling the camera to go until frame 48.

What it actually does is anybody's guess, but I will report back. Needless to say there were times when I wished I hadn't started - maybe I don't need those extra couple of frames that much...
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addy landzaat View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote addy landzaat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2020 at 16:06
That works with manual cameras but not with modern cameras with motorised winders.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Miranda F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2020 at 10:42
My old Rollei 35 (the miniature 35mm camera) had fully manual film wind and I could take 37 or 38 pictures on that before it got to the end-stop and I had to re-wind; but the last picture always had a join in it where the sensitive film was taped to the piece fixed in the drive drum.
I learned never to trust that the last picture on a roll would be usable...

If you really want 37 or 38, you have to put the film in the camera in blackout and don't wind on before shooting. I used to have a camera bag with a built-in darkroom I could do that with (a zip compartment with side access through armholes with tight wrists). But that means an older manual-wind camera.
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2020 at 09:48
Another option for the A mount shooter is the Minolta 9000AF .
Manual film advance ( if no motor drive is fitted ) and manual film rewind ( likewise ) .
Shoot a roll of film until it won't wind on any further .
Nice camera to use , as long as you don't mind the slow auto focus .
Just need to find one whose aperture stopdown mechanism still works .
see my photostream on flickr;
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Post Options Post Options   Quote addy landzaat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2020 at 07:41
It is not that strange, I think. When your a professional photographer, say at a wedding, you want your system to be predictable. If you think picture 36 is the last one and there is another, and another, and when the kiss happens your camera is rewinding, you're in trouble.

Also, like Neil said, the other system is reacting to tension in the film. But this will put strain in the winding motor. For a hobbyist this might not be a big deal, shooting two rolls a week - but if your shooting ten rolls per wedding and maybe a few at another event, it might influence the reliability of your camera.

I do not know if this was the thinking, but these seem good reasons to have the camera automatically rewind after a fixed number of rolls.

Here is the Wiki page on DX-codes.
Here is a video on changing the DX code on your film.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2020 at 01:57
Originally posted by LeReilly LeReilly wrote:

I'll try scratching the cannister then.
Super weird that there is no manual option for this on such an high-end camera...


DX coding is for automation .
What cameras are there that you know of that allow you to reprogram how it functions with this to make the Dynax 7 weird ?
I'm not aware of any that allow you to totally disregard the information with the exception of ISO .

If you want to ignore the DX coding , just tape it over .
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
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Post Options Post Options   Quote LeReilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2020 at 01:52
I'll try scratching the cannister then.
Super weird that there is no manual option for this on such an high-end camera...
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2020 at 20:08
With any roll of film , when it reaches the end it is put under tension .
The camera senses this and automatically rewinds the roll .
Which is fine with non-DX coded film

Sometimes the camera might be a bit sensitive if a film is put in whose centre section is a bit stiff , an a false rewind can happen .

With DX coded film , it tells the camera how many exposures are on it and rewinds on 24 or 36 .

So as already said , covering the DX code and manually entering the ISO is the only way to get any extra out if a roll .
Faffing about trying to trick the DX reader seems more effort than it's worth .

I've never noticed on my Dynax 7 if it'll shoot over 36 shots anyway .
I believe some cameras , not necessarily Minolta , only count to 36 and rewind at that point .
But I can't remember which , or I might just be wrong ....

Edited by neilt3 - 20 June 2020 at 20:15
see my photostream on flickr;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt3/
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addy landzaat View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote addy landzaat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2020 at 19:24
What Bob said. Or make the whole DX code unreadable. It is the DX code that tells the camera that there is a 36 picture roll in there.

That 18 pictures, maybe the camera thought there was an 18 picture roll in there.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote LeReilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2020 at 17:08
Hi,

I know this is an old topic but I have the same issue.
I just tested my Dynax 7 with a Kodak Gold and it rewinded at 36exp.

Has anyone figured out a way to go to 37-38?
I'm planning a trip and this can end up making a big difference over 10 rolls.

(it also rewound mid-roll at 18 frames, no idea why. I put it back and shot 18 frames with the cap on and was able to finish the roll)
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Post Options Post Options   Quote neilt3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 November 2018 at 15:57
Originally posted by Miranda F Miranda F wrote:

Presumably you could glue a bit of kitchen foil across the width instead.


Not sure that would work .
The silver area seen is all one piece , parts are insulated with paint(?) so they don't make contact with the pins in the camera body .
Depending which areas are left clear , in the above picture 7 of them , connects up certain pins on the body together and tell the camera what ISO it is and how many exposures per roll .
Unless the foil makes an electrical connection with another silver panel , then it is still insulated from the panel and won't make part if the circuit .

Or at least that's ,my understanding .
see my photostream on flickr;
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Miranda F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Miranda F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 November 2018 at 15:38
Presumably you could glue a bit of kitchen foil across the width instead.
Miranda F & Sensorex, Sony A58, Nex-6, Dynax 4, 5, 60, 500si/600si/700si/800si, various Sony & Minolta lenses, several Tamrons, lots of MF primes and *far* too many old film cameras . . .
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Bob J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bob J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2018 at 15:18
The internet reckons that if you remove the black paint from the bit of the DX code below where the arrow is pointing to, DX should recognize the cassette as holding 48 shots... note that the DX code is read by an electrical contact, so scratching off the panel with a cross bladed screwdriver, should work.



As I've said, whether the 7 or any other A mount Minolta film cameras will treat it differently is another matter...
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