Portraiture exposure metering

Veeeeeeeeeeeery interesting.
I shoot almost entirely in fully manual mode, but what I have stumbled upon is pretty much the same you're outlining Clyde ... and wouldn't it figure, while I go by Rob my first name is Clyde as well.

So for me, I use spot meter exclusively, meter for the brighter side of the person's face, and 'adjust something' until I'm about 1+. If I'm already on the edge of risking shake / inducing blur, I'll adjust the F-Stop, or if the DOF is already where I want it, I'll bump the ISO.

And while my personal taste is usually for a bit more shadow and contrast, I find doing this, and then pulling the image down a bit in my RAW converter creates a much better image than shooting it darker and then having to push it up.

Always interesting to me, when people stumble across very similar solutions from a different angle.

Sorry Debra I'm unfamiliar with the a500. I would think it has three types of metering in the menu selection, that being matrix, center, and spot. You can achieve the same results with center weight but you'll need to get closer to your subject to accommodate the expanded metering circle. I would assume it also has toggle lock on the a500, but I'm speaking without real knowledge here.

Debra wrote: ...would like to know if there its on the darker area or the lighter...

rpenmanparker gave a pretty good answer but there's a little more to it than that.

On this shot, it is true that I spot metered tightly on the bright side of face.


But that's only because it satisfied the look I was attempting to achieve. I didn't want the highlights to blow out on this particular shot. It would have been much too contrasty against the dark background. But there is no right or wrong. You must find your own personal taste for each shot just as much as deciding background or red vs blue sweater.

Keep in mind that the lighting changes in this tutorial. For front lit shots like these (natural window light), pretty much anywhere on the flesh will do fine. Measure on a cheek or nose or forehead, or better yet, try and make the spot circle fit the entire face:


The same principle holds true for backlit shots (still natural light, reflecting from the background window onto the wall behind me). The lighting is very even, so anywhere on the face will work fine.


But for shots like these, that only have a little side light, or creep over from the backlight, the reflector helps to fill shadows to even out the lighting enough that a full face reading will be great. Don't need to worry about separating shadows from highlights. Just meter the entire face and you'll get it.



A browse through my website shows that I only use this metering for the most clean style of portraits.




But this method is not a hard and fast rule by any means. It's offered as a learning tool to take the guesswork out of clean portraiture. It is easily modified to your own personal taste for more editorial style imagery later on... Experiment and see which look suits your personal style. Have fun with it!

The following images are a variation on the same type of metering. Some with +1, some with -1 or +2. You decide how you want it to be. But learn to use that spot meter.











Edited by Photosopher - 01 April 2012 at 03:36

I have one more question if I may..

I have been having a go with this, but I am not sure where abouts on the face you get the reading, some parts show a bit lighter than others..

I have to say that I think my photos are okish but just would like to know if there its on the darker area or the lighter, but there is not much in it..

Thank you
Debra

Thanks Photoshopper for help/tips...

I will have a hunt around phu ket to see if I can find those mirrors if not will have to see what else I can see..

Regards
Debra

romke wrote: ...a matter of personal preference..."fresh new jeans"... the green grass... learn what objects are suitable for spotmetering...

No doubt about it.

rickztahone wrote: CPL filter for the shiny head :)

Can also use a heavy vignetting lens like the 70-210 Beercan at f4 to cut the glare a bit. Crop tight and make that bald scalp round perfectly with the vignette blend. But the article also shows use of reflectors, which in some cases (blondes, bald), should be used as overhead baffles.

Edited by Photosopher - 28 March 2012 at 18:01

Debra wrote: This is a wonderful thread/information very good information and tips. I did have a go today my pics look ok well for one of my photos lol... I think the plus one is a good guide as many shots I have taken on the setting at the time which I always use spot metering seem that bit dark and have also used a grey card in the past which they have been okish.. On some of my photos I think I only done plus .07 and plus 1.. ?I took some inside the house but had plenty of daylight and some under the umbrella which is cream, the high sun in Thailand is so bright though that when I took some photos of my husband where he is loosing his hair there is always a shiny part so wondering what can I do to help that situation? Also, I love cooking then taking photos for my blog, is there any tips on how to get good exposure with natural light, I do take photos outside as the natural light in the house even though pretty bright it seems to be a bit lackless.. I haev tried using the flash but without success.. Regards Debra

CPL filter for the shiny head :)