Mamiya 645 lenses on the Sony |
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terryg ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 10 October 2006 Country: Australia Location: Australia Status: Offline Posts: 316 |
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Hi, I particularly like your #2 the "anise hyssop". ![]() All the best, Terry Edited by terryg - 29 July 2013 at 04:36 |
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darosa ![]() Emeritus group ![]() Joined: 23 March 2007 Country: Netherlands Location: Old Zealand Status: Offline Posts: 14197 |
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I just posted a few shots with the Mamiya 145/4.0 SF (Soft Focus). Interesting lens that I'm trying out atm.
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Norvass ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 10 February 2013 Country: United Kingdom Location: Alnwick, N'land Status: Offline Posts: 2 |
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Thanks Terry. I will have a go in a couple of hours. My aperture value on the top LCD usually says F - -. I have been using the lens in manual mode at f2.8
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terryg ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 10 October 2006 Country: Australia Location: Australia Status: Offline Posts: 316 |
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Hi Adrian,
If you have good copies of the lenses then your Mamiya 645 150mm f2.8 should be an excellent sharp lens. The 150mm f2.8 is not an "elderly" lens. Your 80mm f2.8 should be at least "good" and maybe better than good. Does your 80mm f2.8 have both C and N included in its engraved ID? I am wondering if what you are describing may be over-exposure as much as or more than flare. Some thoughts: 1) Stay in A mode, but I recommend that you do NOT use Auto ISO. (The Auto ISO behaviour MAY be unpredictable in these scenarios). For now just select an ISO and stay with that, say ISO 200 or 400 for now. 2) When you are trying to take the photos with your a 99 and in A mode what camera "aperture value" is displaying on the top LCD or in the EVF? If this is showing a numerical "aperture value" then you need to dial the "aperture value" on the camera to be the widest aperture (that is the smallest number) that the camera will go to? (It could be down to f1.2 or even f1.) (I have an a77 so I am not sure of the exact a99 behaviour.) 3) Put the a99 into multi-segment metering mode for now, if it is not already there. With those three steps in place on your a99, if you are still having the problem can you post a few sample photos please, preferably taken away from direct sunlight. Also how deep are the hoods you are using with each of the lenses? All the best, Terry |
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Norvass ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 10 February 2013 Country: United Kingdom Location: Alnwick, N'land Status: Offline Posts: 2 |
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Hi Terry and all I have been following closely your various discussions. I don't have much experience of digital cameras but have taken the following actions. Purchased from the US the Pro Fotodiox Mount adaptor for M645 - Sony A DSLR, purchased two lenses from ebay in UK a Mamiya 645 150mm f2.8 lens and Mamiya 645 80mm f2.8 lens. I am using the following specs on my A99. Keeping the lens in wideopen mode i.e f2.8, using a hood, A mode, ISO auto but have tried 100 and manually focused. In the number of pictures (indoor and outdoor) I take I get a rate close to 80% flare in both lenses. Have I brought a pair of elderly lenses that will never produce a decent picture? Maybe I need to try a fomulaic approach to get the results that I have seen on this site? |
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terryg ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 10 October 2006 Country: Australia Location: Australia Status: Offline Posts: 316 |
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Another thought:
The built-in hood on the Mamiya 150mm f2.8 is cute but it is also quite short. I also noticed today that sometimes the hood can tend to fall back a bit from its extended position when in use. I expect you would benefit from screwing a longer hood onto the 150mm's front thread. I will definitely be seeing what I have "in stock" or can get cheaply on *bay for that purpose. All the best, Terry Edited by terryg - 10 May 2013 at 05:35 |
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Winwalloe ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 17 September 2007 Country: France Location: Paris Status: Offline Posts: 2962 |
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terryg: Thanks !
I'll try to recreate the flare issue to see about it. A defect from the adapter makes a lot of sense but I'm not 100% sure it's only it: I could avoid the flare sometimes by hiding the light source with my hand. OTOH the adapter looks prone to light spills, I taped a bit of gaffer tape right when I got it; maybe it's not enough a fix! In which case I'll see about the light blockers you mention. |
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terryg ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 10 October 2006 Country: Australia Location: Australia Status: Offline Posts: 316 |
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Nice shots!
I am wondering if the fairly diffuse "flare" in your fishmarket(?) photo could be light reflected from the walls of the adapter? There can be significantly more light exiting at the rear of that lens than for a normal 35mm-format lens. Even if the adapter has a "black" anodised finish or similar, the walls can reflect some amount of light. (i have seen this with some other lens/adapter combinations.) I would be tempted to try lining the inside walls of the adapter with some self-adhesive black flock material. One source for that is on *bay: the seller name is milly120786 and the item description is "Flock Light Trap Material Super Flat Black". I haven't seen that type of "flare" with my 150mm f2.8 although I probably haven't used it in a situation similar to your example. All the best, Terry |
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ifreedman ![]() Alpha Eyes group ![]() Joined: 24 January 2012 Country: United States Location: Hudson ValleyNY Status: Offline Posts: 4940 |
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Nice images. Thanks for sharing.
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A77ii, A6000 + various alpha, homemade and adapted lenses
Articles: Tilt-Shift Lenses |
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Winwalloe ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 17 September 2007 Country: France Location: Paris Status: Offline Posts: 2962 |
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I had a week of vacation and used the 150/2.8 as my tele lens. Among other things it did confirm that focus peaking isn't reliable enough for critical focusing, the magnifying glass is much preferable.
The lens is sharp indeed, no bad surprise there! The only actual issue I found was with flare (if it's the correct term ?). AFAIK that's something not uncommon with older lenses so I'll take that as part of its package. But it can occur easily when a bright light is somewhere close. It doesn't have to be as bright as the sun either. These are a few real life samples: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Here the flare got very obvious: ![]() |
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terryg ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 10 October 2006 Country: Australia Location: Australia Status: Offline Posts: 316 |
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Winwalloe ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 17 September 2007 Country: France Location: Paris Status: Offline Posts: 2962 |
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I'm pleased to say I finally grabbed my 150/2.8! That was tedious and involved a failed transaction due to a delivery company not showing up for an agreed appointment.
The copy I have is quite beautiful. How smooth is the focusing ring! The only surprise for me would be the aperture ring goes by full step rather than half steps. I don't think it matters much. The chinese-made adapter I got is fine as well. Hopefully I'll post a few shots this week-end. |
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terryg ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 10 October 2006 Country: Australia Location: Australia Status: Offline Posts: 316 |
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Hi Gary and everyone,
Sorry for the very delayed reply. I think the good results you had with the mid-range apertures and with spot metering wide open indicate that the method is correct (namely, in summary, have camera in A mode and use camera dial to match the "requested aperture" to the maximum=widest aperture that the camera assumes the lens has). You do not want the camera to ever be thinking that it is going to tell the lens to stop down. Were your tests with wider angle or telephoto lenses or both? With your results wide open in matrix and centre-weighted mode being "a bit over-exposed" that may just be a quirk of the A900 exposure metering. I normally use matrix metering or centre-weighted with the A77 and don't have any issues. However the A77 meters on the main sensor and has 1200 metering zones so that may help compared with the A900's separate metering sensor (AFAIK) and only 40 zones. The otherwise excellent Fotodiox Pro adapter has no baffling, so wide-open there may be more light coming from angles that the A900's "system" was not designed for. With the smaller apertures (I assume you mean f/11, f/16 and so on) that may be beyond the exposure system's intended design at the other end. I haven't used my Mamiya lenses at those smaller apertures and couldn't replicate the problem in some short tests. All the best, Terry |
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Deepcore ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 15 September 2012 Status: Offline Posts: 205 |
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First outing with Sony A55, Fotodiox adapter, and Mamiya 645 210 F4(it was cheap...couldn't resist...110 2.8 on the way) eating lunch with family on Redondo Beach CA. Some slight sharpening in PP (less on the Jag' because was able to focus peep) eyes not as good as they used to be so manual focusing on the moving sailboat wasn't as easy.
Saw some purple fringing on the rails of the sailboat. Used Manual settings. Very overcast day. [IMG] ![]() Mamiya 210 031613 1 A SGND DSC07382 -1 by Jonathan Yogore, on Flickr[/IMG] [IMG] ![]() Mamiya 210 031613 3 A SGND DSC07352 -1 by Jonathan Yogore, on Flickr[/IMG] |
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Practice makes more frustration
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