TP: Infra-red with exisiting A-mount cameras |
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brettania
Admin Group Dyxum factotum Joined: 17 July 2005 Country: New Zealand Location: Auckland Status: Offline Posts: 20649 |
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Topic: TP: Infra-red with exisiting A-mount cameras Posted: 17 June 2007 at 07:19 |
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Quite a few of our members have either tried or would like to take Infra-red pics with their 7D, 5D or Alpha 100. What is involved, what gear is needed (filters, etc) and just how good are the results? -- Edited by dCap - 17 June 2007 at 13:08 |
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dCap
Senior Member Joined: 11 August 2005 Country: United Kingdom Status: Offline Posts: 6154 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 17 June 2007 at 13:51 | ||
I can start the ball rolling on this one with two links to my own site (and I'll be sure and update or redirect the links when I change my website), plus some background ... I can't show you many photos though (yet).
This was my - failed - attempt at using the 7D as IR Hoya R72 on 7D Several people talked then about still being able to use the image, frankly I think its better to find a less ghostly set-up rather than spend more time on the mac than in the field. And this is a great plug-in for PhotoShop that might interest you review of Pseudo IR This article was written last year, the software site has been updated a few times, and I am yet to grab this download for the mac (the above was PS7 on a PC, need to try it on PSE4 on a mac next). So this is shooting normally, and then faking your IR effect in PS. I think I mention on one of my articles or a thread somewhere that while researching the topic of IR I found that Canon dSLRs seemed to be the better way to go. That isn't bad news. Perhaps a used Canon D30 (not 30D), the older 3.2 mega pixels jobby. if you really want to do IR then a spcific set-up might be the way to go. That said, I've not done α100 IR yet. I've seen forum threads with much better results straight from camera on the α100 than the 5D or 7D ... so might be an idea to try the α As someone who used Kodak's High Speed HIE infrared film a good few times (wasn't as impressed with Konica's and Ilfords SFX was a bit short in the reds it would capture) ... I'm coming from the 'how it should look' field. And how it should look is shockingly grainy! IR in film was not about fine grain and smooth results. Part of the appeal was grain. a.n.other reason I added the Olympus E-400 to my tool box was to get back into IR. I never tried it on my α100 ... and for me don't really have a lens to use it with on the α or the Oly, but I'm thinking about it. IR can be very rewarding. I have the 14-42 kit lens that might serve well as an IR only optic? My suggestions are to pick a wide angle lens. You don't need an f1.8 or f2. You need to adjust focus to get in line with the IR light ... but if you shoot a wide and stop to f8 you can largely not bother with any refocusing. Quick note on technique. Tripod is a must. Set the scene. Then screw in the filter and take the shot. But you need to be in manual exposure. Sunny day, try starting off at 1/4 f8 or f11 ... then peak at the image on the screen ... and adjust your settings accordingly. Your image will be all shade of red. The next bit is to edit at home on you computer. First step is to turn it black and white, then play with contrast and brightness. You should need to spend a great deal of time in post. Lush spring green is the hot topic for IR. And people's lips turn white. I leave the other discoveries up to you. Oh, and white clouds and BLACK sky. IR - RED ... it the red wave lengths beyond the red spectrum. So for example a Hoya R72 blocks out the light with a shorter wave length than 720nm. So all the greens and blues etc. Blue being at the other end of the spectrum tends to go black (landscape photographers take interest). Filters, glass: Hoya make the R72 which is affordable if bought off Mr eBay and in a small size. They also do an RM90 which has a price tag to challenge most people's lens prices! The 72 is 720nm and the 90 is 900nm I guess, the bigger the number the longer into the IR spectrum we go. I seem to remember than Ilfords SFX film had increased red sensitivity to about 780nm, but it didn't show very much. Filters, gel: this is the only practicle solution if you want to use a big filter thread ... and the price is very affordable. Lee Filters do an infrared gel (thin sheet of plastic) and this is bigger than Cokin P, so you need to buy a blank Cokin P gel holder, but the gel down to size ... and you can do all of that for about the price of a Hoya R72 glass screw in 55mm mount. I can't remember the nm, I think its 800-ish. Of course, the old filum way was to have a grainy result ... you might be able to pull of a new age digital image with fine grain? (this is just a quick and dirty mind dump on IR to get this new TP rolling, I think I'll spend some time and re-write it as an article and then update this thread, in the meantime, hope that helps) |
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BenKinetics
Senior Member Joined: 05 May 2007 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Posts: 221 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 30 June 2007 at 22:04 | ||
I've done quite a bit of this - using two lenses:
Sigma 28-300 with Hoya R72: This is an excellent combination, as long as you keep it at 28mm. Zooming out causes flare. Minolta 50/1.4 with Hoya R72: allows short (1-2s) exposures, but has flare. Flare is sometimes a problem - there are a few ways to get rid of it. Some lenses seem to have more IR internal reflection than others, and it depends on the zoom level. Sometimes you can just frame larger than you want and then crop. Or sometimes it's possible to remove the flare in post-processing, but that's fiddly. The procedure I use is: - Frame and focus the camera. - Switch to manual focus, and focus back slightly - some lenses have a red dot for this, most don't, so just turn back a little bit. - Set to 2s timer, manual mode, long exposure, and take the pic. - Review and adjust exposure. - Post-process in Capture One LE to adjust the colour temperature, then export to Lightroom for more tweaking. There's a lot of experimentation involved, but it's fun ;-) |
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polyglot
Senior Member Joined: 25 June 2007 Country: Australia Location: Australia Status: Offline Posts: 3622 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 08 July 2007 at 09:42 | ||
I've had some success with a cheap R72-equivalent (77mm AUD65 from ebay) on the 17-35D and A100. Exposures are long - in the seconds for ISO100 and bright sunshine - but it does work. There's a central bright spot (haven't tried masking it out but will one day) and the lens is highly flare-prone since the anti-reflection coatings seem ineffective past about 800nm.
Make sure you take RAW images and you'll need to turn the red channel way down since some visible light does get through to it. All the IR is in the G & B channels. for example, both with the 17-35D: |
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Turerkan
Emeritus group Moderator emeritus Joined: 11 February 2006 Location: Turkey Status: Offline Posts: 6253 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 11 January 2008 at 22:37 | ||
I can suggest these links that i took from another member's post:
IR Basics for Digital Photographers IR and UV Photography by Bjrrn Rrrslett UV Photography in Color by Bjrrn Rrrslett DIY IR Illuminator |
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eddyizm
Senior Member Joined: 26 January 2007 Country: United States Location: California Status: Offline Posts: 2324 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 31 May 2012 at 23:17 | ||
I"m surprised this topic is so thing when we have a pretty long thread for IR images. If anyone is interested, I could post my work flow on a non modified A100+ R72 filter.
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cleoo
Groupie Joined: 03 September 2009 Country: United States Location: United States Status: Offline Posts: 42 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 29 November 2012 at 16:58 | ||
I found this link on how to disassemble a NEX camera to make it infrared. With an adapter you can use A-Mount.
http://www.ir-photo.net/ir_nex6mod.html |
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Maxxum 7000->Sony A100->A200->A700, A55, A57. Sigma 30mm1.4,50mm1.7, SAL16105. Selling Maxxum 7. Might sell Minolta 70-300mm, Minolta 100-300mm, Minolta 100-200mm.
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cleoo
Groupie Joined: 03 September 2009 Country: United States Location: United States Status: Offline Posts: 42 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 29 November 2012 at 17:01 | ||
Here's one for a Minolta 7D:
http://www.ir-photo.net/ir_dynax7mod.html This site is good for anything infrared photography related. This covers some aspects of Sony Alpha infrared photography: http://www.dynaxdigital.com/taking-photos/a-guide-to-infrared-photography/ Edited by cleoo - 29 November 2012 at 17:06 |
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Maxxum 7000->Sony A100->A200->A700, A55, A57. Sigma 30mm1.4,50mm1.7, SAL16105. Selling Maxxum 7. Might sell Minolta 70-300mm, Minolta 100-300mm, Minolta 100-200mm.
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Jocelynne
Senior Member Joined: 17 June 2009 Location: United States Status: Offline Posts: 2819 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 29 November 2012 at 17:34 | ||
I am considering to convert an A300 for IR photography. Does anyone have opinions and suggestions concerning such a conversion?
What does an IR conversion of the A300 require? What Alpha lenses are best employed for IR photography? Thank you for your kind advice. JL |
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Maxxum 450si, Sony A300, A700, A900 and a cubic meter of Alpha lenses
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Micholand
Admin Group Knowledgebase Contributor Joined: 30 October 2005 Country: Germany Location: MUC Status: Offline Posts: 19024 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 29 November 2012 at 18:28 | ||
More info to be found here: DIY Sony A100 infra-red conversion IR+UV: photography beyond human visible spectrum And of course IR pictures to be posted in here then finally Edited by Micholand - 18 July 2013 at 19:05 |
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neilt3
Senior Member Joined: 13 September 2010 Country: United Kingdom Location: Manchester.U.K Status: Offline Posts: 3559 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 18 July 2013 at 18:54 | ||
The link to "IR+UV: photography beyond human visible spectrum " in the above no longer works . Does any one know if it's still available , perhaps with a new link ? thanks. Edited by Micholand - 18 July 2013 at 19:06 |
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Micholand
Admin Group Knowledgebase Contributor Joined: 30 October 2005 Country: Germany Location: MUC Status: Offline Posts: 19024 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 18 July 2013 at 19:02 | ||
Try this one: IR+UV: photography beyond human visible spectrum
Typo was corrected, so original link should work again Edited by Micholand - 18 July 2013 at 19:06 |
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neilt3
Senior Member Joined: 13 September 2010 Country: United Kingdom Location: Manchester.U.K Status: Offline Posts: 3559 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 18 July 2013 at 19:47 | ||
got it , thanks . |
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Roger Rex
Senior Member Joined: 30 September 2005 Country: United States Location: North Florida Status: Offline Posts: 8245 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 06 January 2014 at 09:18 | ||
Good information on conversion can be found here. However, LifePixel does not handle Minolta conversions so I had these folks convert my 7D and I have been happy with the results.
Edited by Roger Rex - 06 January 2014 at 16:14 |
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Hatred corrodes the container it is carried in. http://rogerrex.zenfolio.com/
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